Off Course making Toiles

My laptop is ICU.Files/Folders , Journal notes, Pictures of WIP all currently in a deep coma.
Vintage desktop compupa is the backup at home ............say no more.

The arrival of a certain pattern, last week ( along with other goodies.Thank you very as always M)
Patrones #223 style 11
A Chanel jacket ,and as the Patrones pattern is recreated from an original jacket, took a breatherfrom working on the coat to explore the pattern pieces, except the jacket pattern is drafted with the side panel seam.
That requires a separate post to explain where the shaping is , and the limitations for a curvy female form requiring FBA (Full bust alterations)

Left the prepping for the WIP............one of two winter coats for fitting and making up of several toiles.


Similar pattern draft from Burda WOF 3/2004 Style #102.

Burda patterns I know what to do to them to get them to fit.Seemed the best way to get a better feel for the Patrones sloper and pattern drafts.Trace and alter both patterns
Compare the differences in the two slopers and try to get the Patrones one to fit( ambitious , yes I know)
Metres of cream wool pulled out and a foray into the dark side commenced.

I have fitted the panel seam type patterns in the past and have working prototypes for the versions with and without side seams.It is one of the most difficult alterations to do successfully.
After browsing back issues of Burda WOF stumbled on an article which made rethink and try out different options.

Unable to load more pictures right now.( No decent software on this dinosaur)

I am not even sure if I would want to do so.
This isnt a ( please tell me if my rear is too big in &***~~@.OH NO you don't) blog.
Iknow the answers thank you very much.
Incidentally I search online for FBA for the panel seam ( which is not the princess seam draft) yielded very little.Reviews for Vogue and Burda WOF styles as above had no specific /useful info.

Off to resuscitate the compupa

FO:Miss Marple Tweed skirt and Top

Project
Tweed skirt and Knit top( aka Miss Marple Take 1)
Patterns
Top Butterick 3391 OOP View E
Skirt Burda 8280View B
Fabrics
Top: Eggplant and Taupe Print Viscose Lycra Knit
Skirt: Eggplant Wool & Silk Tweed
Lining: Acetate & Viscose Twill
Details/Mods:
Cookie cutter type of sewing.The kind of project that extends and refreshes one's wardrobe
No tweaks , no glitches , no suprises.
Top alteration details

Waistline Options:
Culled from previous BWOF Projects
To avoid bulk at the waist edge for skirts that have no waistband , I attach the lining to the waist edge omitting the facing.
For edge stability I use one of these options
1.Fusible interfacing cut to the shape of facing( pattern for which is present or created) Pink the lower end to prevent show through.

2.Vilene Bias Tape
Non woven grain reinforced tape with a chain stitch 4mm in.
Often quoted in Burda WOF patterns.( Sometimes called fuse and fold ????? by Burda WOF)Excellent for knits as well as speed tailoring for reinforcing the armsyce.
Close up picture

3.Off Grain fusible Tape
8% Off grain fusible woven tape.Another essential item for soft tailoring.
Available in the UK from English Couture and I think in the USA from Louise Cuttings

For my skirt used fusible tricot knit interfacing in wine , cut to the facing pattern.
Lining and fabric interface ironed to the lining side , pressed and understitched with the serpentine or 3 step zigzag stitch.

Fabric Crawl circa Edgware Road

How does one get into deep trouble? Arrange to meet a fellow fabricaholic for lunch on Church Street.
Not the smartest thing to do when three of the best fabric shops in London are metres apart

Joel and Son Fabrics

Hadson Fabrics

Jason's Fabrics
(Absorbing Allans of Duke Street)

We are talking prices that will make one's eyes water.The fabrics are just stunning and stupendous prices to match. The knits including plain and print silk jerseys ,cobweb mohairs , hand knit look lace knits rayon&lycra knits TDF and the very best selection of felted wools.
Shops that should be in every sewer's address book.

Few hours later ( details heavily censored)............................



The black and white viscose & lycra knit will be for a tee top inspired by the Blumarine one Gigi on Behind the Seams blog had a little while ago

We were only able to count our pennies (literally ) for late lunch/snack in a greasy spoon by Church Street Market.

Later this week I should be able to post about the other end of my fabric shopping.The Dive

Viktor and Rolf for H& M Collection

Any fashion trendy will have heard about, or even gone out and joined the frenzy to score from the latest designer collection to hit H &M stores ( 250 stores worldwide) that launched on the 9th November 2006. This time it is the dessign duo of Viktor & Rolf
My fav piece is actually this item, yes another trenchcoat.

The newspaper article shows the melee that erupted in one of the London stores yesterday.
Burda WOF lives up to its name , not just as a pattern magazine but a portal for fashion events as well
Their website ( albeit in German) has the lead article as well as a fashion show showing the collection.

BWOF Viktor &Rolf show

There are other goodies hidden on the Burda WOF site
Devil wear Prada slideshow
The beginning of a fashion wikipedia
One can only guess that some of the looks and trends will translate into sewing patterns.
Way to go BWOF

Guess if isnt obvious that I'm a BWOF groupie , i 'fess up

FO:Vogue #2530 Calvin Klein Raincoat

Project Details

Outer Garment:Black Viscose & Polyurethane blend. Waterproof/Repellant
Lining: Blue Black Silk & Cotton Satin fabric
Notions: Vinyl and Teflon coated presser foot, Universal needle and Gutermann polyester thread
Interfacing : Non ( see below)

Pattern:
OOP Vogue design.Copyright date 1990.
I acquired the pattern as a gift in 1999 whilst searching for Vogue Issey Miyake patterns.This pattern/ silhouette is still in current Calvin Klein RTW collections with pocket variations.I made the first version in 2000 , in a black cotton canvas rainproof fabric which lasted five years of abuse.

Design Details
Loose fitting, A line, lined coat , above mid knee ,has self or contrast collar on band ,pockets with flaps, back pleats and long sleeves with button bands.
Suitable for Broadcloth, Lwt Gabardine, Flannel Duck and Poplin.Optional Water repellant spray
Finished measurements( size 14) Bust 49 inches, Hips 56 inches Width 60 inches, Length 60 inches.

Alterations: Dartless FBA, lengthened by 3 inches( the original owner defaced the pattern cover)

The above picture is the best representation of the fabric.It has a subtle lustre.
Construction:
In progress pictures located here

The instructions on two sides of single sheet was crammed but excellent.
The construction was straight forward.( Least the times it was scrunched up ready for the bin)

One expects that research on raincoat, outer wear plasticky fabrics already done.
Fabric Sewing Guides, Fabric Savvy etc
Good Articles from Threads Magazine : Issue 19 and 46
Rochelle Harper: Sewing Outerwear fabrics

Main bugbears :
Pressing the wretched fabric.Needed to press scraps starting with the coolest settings and inching up slowly just to the point where 1 degree higher would have meant char.
I used steam even though the fabric is impervious , felt that it increased the temp ever so slightly.
Marks & Holes: No room for ripping , the fabric mars and all needle holes remain.
I was only able to use fine pins in the seam allowances and resorted to wooden clothes pegs and paper clips.
Lucky for me Viking Buttonhole sensor meantI got even reproducible buttonholes.
Interfacing: Addind structure especially to the flaps and collar, and bands should have been a challenge.The prospect to trying out sew-in type interfacings wasnt on the cards.Luckly the fabric was from jobbers and the yardage was pre fused
Vilene do a great Leather non woven fusible LE420 which I have used on vinyl, faux leather and ultrasuede.

A great city coat , roomy enough to wear over complete ensemble, perfect length for driving as well as pounding the pavements.
For me maybe more versatile than my traditional styled trenchcoats.

FO: D Abrahams/Rowan Shaded Squares Bag

Project : Debbie Abrahams Knitted Bag.

Pattern: Rowan Knitted Kit , the Shaded Squares Bag
Intaria and beaded bag , the back done in two colour garter& stocking stitch stripes.Base and handles in moss stitch

Yarn: Rowan Cotton Glace Coffee Cream colourway

Needles: 2.25mm , 3.0mm

Specs/Mods:
Knitted kit for bag.The kit came boxed with specific weights for the yarn, small glass shell buttons, glass beads( pearl and clear) , piece of lining fabrics and yarn ID tag.
My first full intarsia project, went rather well.Full b/w chart included.
My main beef was the lining.The fabric supplied was a narrow rectangular piece , whilst the instructions required the lining to be cut in one piece ( Rhomoid from rectangle?)

Changes:
Omitted the fabric ties for snap closure.
Left out the buttons on edge of bag( really nice shell buttons better for cardis, shirts?)
For next time , will either double the straps or knit even tighter for strength


The back and side of back showing two colour striped cloth

Close up of the intarsia( no holes , yeah)

Further in progress pictures here