tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-266025572024-03-07T17:06:51.639-06:00My Sewing and KnittAnticsFrenzied Sewing and Hand Knitting Antics jazzed along by Machine Knitting.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comBlogger109125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-81126981472159260372008-10-12T06:09:00.005-06:002008-10-12T06:29:30.833-06:00Burda WOF August 2008 Cabled Sweater<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUlsbsGXwAs91HSxg4x_uNbsAdfP7yeoH7DGTkPckfu1rkLdmmjSHAGBg6nzDHs2La1btUBQq569yka2E-D9EiFLVQOkaqN0qWLPCAVeQFqp2jeW58tsoP70KlQQjYU8MX0zICeg/s1600-h/cam001+169.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256240257710129890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUlsbsGXwAs91HSxg4x_uNbsAdfP7yeoH7DGTkPckfu1rkLdmmjSHAGBg6nzDHs2La1btUBQq569yka2E-D9EiFLVQOkaqN0qWLPCAVeQFqp2jeW58tsoP70KlQQjYU8MX0zICeg/s320/cam001+169.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This may end up in the dustbin.The front and back are done, yoke almost finished.But where is the rest of the yarn to finish the sleeves?<br />Yarn is now discontinued and unable to locate online. YIKES !!!!!<br /><br />More like a disaster in the making than WIP.Oh well at least I get practice on a new to me version of cabling without a cable needle<br /><br />I did find an amazing tutorial for <a href="http://www.grumperina.com/cables.htm">cabling sans cable needle</a>.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53kwig8IwhbTLusI_KXkBDT7VRRYnKdUyLu27ifkc_g1OKX2hl2mn2bXKvCSNBspVJj4AMlDOx4XOMIP0ZhImSgb7rJzoSmTe2tEga9dylRsNquI71OlPD_7loHU-hy2w2k4vWw/s1600-h/bwof+808+137.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256239358114439410" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53kwig8IwhbTLusI_KXkBDT7VRRYnKdUyLu27ifkc_g1OKX2hl2mn2bXKvCSNBspVJj4AMlDOx4XOMIP0ZhImSgb7rJzoSmTe2tEga9dylRsNquI71OlPD_7loHU-hy2w2k4vWw/s320/bwof+808+137.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div></div></div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-48212072323675623612008-10-02T12:45:00.004-06:002008-10-02T13:01:56.865-06:00Bravissimo<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUq0dq58F3sQfqTZKjhvxgw69gJgLbOqPo_q2n8WdBqVDw8zrE9A-ziDizo9Ga1MsJ8yHtcrnPffu-GmTb4b-hlg-CgCm-9N23OfEzCLQujdgqKJOV977wPfay0Znejuuu5xTcg/s1600-h/bv001.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252632465907274498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUq0dq58F3sQfqTZKjhvxgw69gJgLbOqPo_q2n8WdBqVDw8zrE9A-ziDizo9Ga1MsJ8yHtcrnPffu-GmTb4b-hlg-CgCm-9N23OfEzCLQujdgqKJOV977wPfay0Znejuuu5xTcg/s320/bv001.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>If you have a rack sized DD to K cup , then you will know who or what <a href="http://www.bravissimo.com/">Bravissimo</a> is.</div><br /><div>Just got the latest catalogue and they have extended their clothing range to include suits and coats.<br /></div><div>They are probably one of the very few companies that offer knit tops , dresses , jackets and coats for full busted women( and not necessarily bigger or plus sized ones)</div><br /><div><a href="http://www.bravissimo.com/perfectfit/guide-to-clothing/clothing-size-guide.aspx">Size Range</a></div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPJ0WcBvSsNPqrbuh65KUMKWfr50F5PNYQgFYyrOFg8eO1SqtiF6ldHIuLGr4eTXaYJuMeMw-gASrgKujTwLVqvCUqrBJXxzYV7xVjwrZt4OaI5Kj6zTMCFiQCiWM2izxZeZOs-g/s1600-h/bv002.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252632126049718098" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPJ0WcBvSsNPqrbuh65KUMKWfr50F5PNYQgFYyrOFg8eO1SqtiF6ldHIuLGr4eTXaYJuMeMw-gASrgKujTwLVqvCUqrBJXxzYV7xVjwrZt4OaI5Kj6zTMCFiQCiWM2izxZeZOs-g/s320/bv002.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div>Even if one wasnt able to buy the garments, they showcase styles that look great for us needing to do VVFBA to get clothes to fit .<br /><br />Me I am going back home in a few weeks time so will be able to visit the Ealing and Covent Garden shops in person.<br /><div></div></div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-71688608957154658012008-09-17T15:26:00.004-06:002008-09-17T15:32:54.805-06:00Like Eons ago<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha7xLPuGcXozrBbH584y300RaDqhcb1DFhywgcFUly_0j2oyDgXnaSfW-RXR7c99Nn8e_Iyu0A7_jWKA_dnUiAR4neZMNAshDOtIhII5PzIMcOUyq4FCFgyU5ccpqRKuFDD61wxg/s1600-h/PICT0010.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha7xLPuGcXozrBbH584y300RaDqhcb1DFhywgcFUly_0j2oyDgXnaSfW-RXR7c99Nn8e_Iyu0A7_jWKA_dnUiAR4neZMNAshDOtIhII5PzIMcOUyq4FCFgyU5ccpqRKuFDD61wxg/s320/PICT0010.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247105297249828850" border="0" /></a>The new Bergere de France swatch book, CD Rom and magazines arrived the long route , via London.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhODMMnoLPxzMwBrVxOhG8feFsuWkLCxuHCuKj-YbOpSpibuQ6M-SILP9BIu1Zgi-sPPOxK6mtXCBhZUREQiYgS4a7hneiLOScvprKMLLeD2JmVxWvZ4D3XWcbQTtylf9QKkJisLA/s1600-h/PICT0006.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhODMMnoLPxzMwBrVxOhG8feFsuWkLCxuHCuKj-YbOpSpibuQ6M-SILP9BIu1Zgi-sPPOxK6mtXCBhZUREQiYgS4a7hneiLOScvprKMLLeD2JmVxWvZ4D3XWcbQTtylf9QKkJisLA/s320/PICT0006.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247105301970320098" border="0" /></a>One of quilts I made whilst containers were on the high seas. Wont be making many more , but great dressmaking skills and tips picked up.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-30781812246758611372007-07-19T14:32:00.001-06:002008-10-02T14:22:27.182-06:00Blog Hiatus<span style="font-size:85%;">In the fashion of <strong><em>Gordon Ramsey "The F word"</em></strong> <strong>DONE</strong> </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span>Relocation DONE<br />Crafting items :Packed,Boxed and Shipped. DONE<br />Me in new habitat: DONE<br /><br />Blog going into hiatus: for now<br /><br />New Phase of life begins.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-81732853341005503572007-06-28T10:33:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:10.665-06:00Summer 2007 Yarn Sales<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtndDqg-d_pVp1H6AlNXz6_8eAbVhwUzPhLWRGroCNBxwa-hdEDwXTObm5FFIIOSIno8CbQAgioOjBcNyRHkl5mUUjLNEqDlJrfCjSVq-2V6DivxNvZWYEU12AW_S-e_MYydPKw/s1600-h/Liberty+sale.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtndDqg-d_pVp1H6AlNXz6_8eAbVhwUzPhLWRGroCNBxwa-hdEDwXTObm5FFIIOSIno8CbQAgioOjBcNyRHkl5mUUjLNEqDlJrfCjSVq-2V6DivxNvZWYEU12AW_S-e_MYydPKw/s320/Liberty+sale.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081155735364372018" border="0" /></a>Yep , not one but two gigantic Liberty of London Sale bags<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQGippYzPhh7yuCAt3xt7OANEOVg1Hr5yq-rD8l6WK3xrDKc7xBZW_YVz_jLM8J5GKBmGo3ZoKXqkP_B-DStfd4dBsoLBqc4aHT_CGGagklxVkjQpsP6exPm3NzTVshzxcxjZ_Q/s1600-h/Liberty+sale+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQGippYzPhh7yuCAt3xt7OANEOVg1Hr5yq-rD8l6WK3xrDKc7xBZW_YVz_jLM8J5GKBmGo3ZoKXqkP_B-DStfd4dBsoLBqc4aHT_CGGagklxVkjQpsP6exPm3NzTVshzxcxjZ_Q/s320/Liberty+sale+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081155739659339330" border="0" /></a>The summer sales are underway.<br />Liberty kicked off today with yummilicious offerings<br />Jaeger is going to be phased out , and all the yarns are going or gone.That is a shame because they do have the some of the best, classic yarns around.<br />Glee all round because they were deeply discounted<br /><br />Yarns in the Sale<br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Jaeger Aqua :all shades</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Jaeger Sienna : all shades</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Jaeger Extra Fine Merino DK</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Rowan Kid Silk Night :red</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Rowan Kid Silk Haze : mustardy yellow</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Rowan Cotton Rope</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Rowan Kid Classic</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Rowan Holiday or Glimmer: the dishrag looking one</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Felted Tweed : some stray packs</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">The Biggies: sorry I didnt even check<br /></span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >? Very little Rowan Calmer perhaps already snagged<br /><br /></span>Pattern books from Jaeger/Rowan to match the yarns<br />The prices are really low, they wont be matched even by the online Rowan seller that seat on mountains of discontinued yarns and then have to shift years later.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">John Lewis Paternership sales</span> start on Saturday and they will have in addition to Rowan/Jaeger yarns from Debbie Bliss, LHarding , Patons, Sirdar and Noro<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Phildar Soldes<br />Yep</span> they have started their summer sales online.Guess the best of the sale stock is gone.Well worth a look as they ship worldwide, so buying at 50% discount wont break the bank<br /><br />I wont be flashing the contents of the bags , since the majority aint mine.<br />Orders to be mailed out or passed on at rendezvous next week.<br />It pays to play nice on the internet( none of the "who is she/he that is so pervasive) then you might get some kind knitter helping to spread the yarnie/crafty love.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">BE NICE IT PAYS</span><br />Presenting my new to me knitting machine<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">SIT Singer Memo 11/Superba S47/White 1502</span><br />French 5mm double bed knitting machine<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxgv47171F7IetLAflIvVKYnfqM-s31GyaaePHcvulEbjgi03qJ2AMUwJyK-lZzhhachIVc2mtfYW0sleMiu2RziZDjjsG_khNcq8DY-iV5CeeTrBbrtM80oy_IaUzD_dvpbbPQ/s1600-h/Singer+memo.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxgv47171F7IetLAflIvVKYnfqM-s31GyaaePHcvulEbjgi03qJ2AMUwJyK-lZzhhachIVc2mtfYW0sleMiu2RziZDjjsG_khNcq8DY-iV5CeeTrBbrtM80oy_IaUzD_dvpbbPQ/s320/Singer+memo.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081155748249273938" border="0" /></a>Three weeks before departure, and hopes of getting the machine to ship out fast fading.I decided to put in a request online for a machine lurking in some attic.Three hours later, I got a postive response.Machine in nearly new condition (despite the fact it was purchased about two decades ago) was mine if I wanted .<br /><br />Cost was exactly what the crafter had paid for it only a few weeks ago local to her. When I snet payment , the cratfer recognised my name.We had met online in 1998 whilst hunting for OOP Issey Miyake patterns.Suspect I hadnt behaved ghastly or else she might have retracted the offer LOL. <span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Not the reason to aware ( the opposite of bolshie, crappy blah blah blah) that goes on the in cyberspace but this experience is a definite bonus</span></span><br />The machine arrived with a gazillion extras like transfer carriages ,bags of tools, packs of needles and a very much sought after colour changer complete with instructions.<br /><br />Phildar/ Bergere de France is why I got into machine knitting. Many of their handknitting patterns have instructions /charts or adaptation for machine knitting .The 5mm KM does knit up to light DK like Pure Laine, Oxygene, Canasta etc.It makes using the original yarns even more appropriate.<br />Suspect I have me the perfect knitting elfin to churn out double time even more French sweaters.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Remember chaps, IT DOES PAY TO BE NICE</span>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-11206219762354473522007-06-18T23:22:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:10.772-06:00Translating French Knitting Patterns<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhef3HSXQguL-6lgmAXqFy-Fwq6y6SC6G50OkLkoYjQKsuUbuHlO3AguaaXgcQiNQ6FyI-N7-WeaO-l9o3DPQ34GEVu2WKN10Z4H9fsOR5HTnBN9tJBSzC3tD5m11RDme3Yl9l6MQ/s1600-h/Bdf+Lima+Sweater.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhef3HSXQguL-6lgmAXqFy-Fwq6y6SC6G50OkLkoYjQKsuUbuHlO3AguaaXgcQiNQ6FyI-N7-WeaO-l9o3DPQ34GEVu2WKN10Z4H9fsOR5HTnBN9tJBSzC3tD5m11RDme3Yl9l6MQ/s320/Bdf+Lima+Sweater.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5077648537020709394" border="0" /></a><br />Small post regarding French knitting patterns.There are some exceptional French knitting publicaions.Phildar, Bergere de France, Anny Blatt , Bouton D,or, Fait Main , Tricot Ideal, and offerings from Marie Claire Idee.<br />What these publications offer for me is the great designs, so not old granny looking sweaters, the<br />excellent schematics, le mathematique or the modular way that increases/ decreases are written.Stitch glossary at beginning of pattern and the use of charts<br /><br />French patterns dont translate well into English,( <span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">they dont do the three rows before the 34 th row after the second to last decrease nonsense</span></span>) that is rife with certain English knitting patterns.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Resources</span><br />Phildar <a href="http://www.phildar.fr/conseils-tricots/liste-conseil-tricot.aspx">Le Conseil Tricot</a><br />Excellent resource on the basics, some stitch patterns, their methods for increases/ decreases/ finishing knits with graphics that are easy to understand<br /><br />Phildar <a href="http://www.phildar.fr/conseils-tricots/glossaire-tricot.aspx">Knitting Glossary</a><br />Searchable glossary<br /><br />Bergere de France <a href="http://www.bergeredefrance.fr/faq/faq_reponse.phtml?id_faq=31">Downloadable Glossaire</a><br />A downloadable pdf glossarie.<br /><a href="http://www.bergeredefrance.fr/trico/trico.phtml?id_rubrique=6">Trucs and Astuces</a><br />Their knitting hints and tricks guide online<br /><br />Chez Plum article: <a href="http://chezplum.com/knitting-from-the-french/">Knitting from French</a><br />Excellent overview with further links and a very good explanation on the <span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">mathematique.</span><br />The formulae for dealing with shaping( increases, decreases and cast offs)<br />Similar to the Japanese knitting notations.<br /><br />Best option would be to learn the notations, and abbrevations for knitting tasks. And knit directly from French .A dictionary would perhaps only be necessary for finishing instructions, short rows etc and completing specific tasks<br /><br />Me , I am off to continue packing.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-90591862262385133262007-06-17T06:20:00.000-06:002007-06-21T17:24:29.476-06:00BdF Update and Fabric Dive Enabler AlertClearly on day release from the Zoo.Postings on blog, whatever next.I had planned a "sweatshop" weekend sewing like a loonie , but have done zilch.Oh well.<br /><br />Local Enabler Alert for Locals and Londoners<br />The fabric dive, Material World have just cleared out stock from "The famous British Plaid company "factory ends.<br /><br />The " Plaid" lining<br />Plaid bias binding in cotton and silk .<br />Buttons with crests, other button assortments.<br />Fantastic selection of Italian wools , linens , and the trench cotton used for their summer pants , skirts and trench dresses.<br />Gutermann silk buttonhole on 10m and 50m spools.Extremely rare on the retail market.<br />As ever NAVY.....................just a customer<br /><br />Bergere De France Update<br />The post including details on their Cd generated some blog traffic.<br />Article # for them are<br />2006/2007 ; #119.771<br />2005/2006: #691.331<br />2004/2005: #655.491<br />2003/2004: still available just not listed on the website.Contact me for details<br /><br />As I have just been astonished by the generosity of an online knitter in locating a sought after Knitting Machine( more when it arrives next week) I will be ordering bits from with BdF this week .<br />Done , just waiting for postie with my coliecoAbihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-17506160756438548092007-06-17T05:49:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:10.862-06:00Easy Unlined Jacket? That,s telling porkies<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc8rfI0L3aOQt9dICznVrstZax6KYBzfgdT_YMQQEeJStIqhwB6xoX_PwNoGq2FzUSthwD2AS38QICB1IH7vhZakTvZvhXFZ8_wVaF81xWciyrhCIJKaQJD1W04Qp3luuKMW-kkA/s1600-h/V8209+hongkong+seams.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc8rfI0L3aOQt9dICznVrstZax6KYBzfgdT_YMQQEeJStIqhwB6xoX_PwNoGq2FzUSthwD2AS38QICB1IH7vhZakTvZvhXFZ8_wVaF81xWciyrhCIJKaQJD1W04Qp3luuKMW-kkA/s320/V8209+hongkong+seams.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5077002861702199810" border="0" /></a>If one is told that making an unlined jacket is easy,Abi says that,s porkies (<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;"> cockney slang for lies.Porkie pies ?get it)</span></span><br />I line most of my garments, even line/cotton summer togs.I had just finished a duo , skirt and jacket combo in a silk/linen/tencel fabric.<br />Yummy colour , feel and drape but not suited for anything structured.<br />Unlined jacket.Yikes , with the overlocked seam edges exposed.<br />No I dont think so. Not very pretty<br /><br /> The alternative was to draft a half back lining , front part lining by extending the front facing to match at side seam similar to armhole chest piece or plastron.<br />Description and details for drafting the lining pieces can be found in Singer Tailoring or Taunton Press Easy guide to lining( I dont advocate blatant copyright violations)<br />Fusible knit interfacing cut to match the lining pieces, shaving away 2 cmm at outer edges, with pinking shears to soften /reduce strike through.<br /><br />HongKong finish on every exposed seam edge <span style="font-weight: bold;"></span>t<span style="font-weight: bold;">added a few hours to project.</span>Lucky I had Ambiance lining bias roll( from Paul Costeloe factory sale)<br />Perhaps twice or thrice as long as it would have taken to sew a full lining.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">MORALE EASY IS NOT ALWAYS FASTER</span>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-30936131589108892482007-06-15T13:38:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:11.472-06:00FO:Burda WOF June 2007 # 110 Top<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUb6VOlMjEA-CKzInJ59qhounyqsNnBrlIgHVlUG3z-t3e17X2ReNz0s08XgvFiniZGkWIz12V1He7rk00ZtJiHrwlqpj6XBZZ_gQ5U4n0UFTnVlRcufS9Hf94CQlidcArVLD12A/s1600-h/BWOF+607+110.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUb6VOlMjEA-CKzInJ59qhounyqsNnBrlIgHVlUG3z-t3e17X2ReNz0s08XgvFiniZGkWIz12V1He7rk00ZtJiHrwlqpj6XBZZ_gQ5U4n0UFTnVlRcufS9Hf94CQlidcArVLD12A/s200/BWOF+607+110.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5076378764299385282" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project:</span>Another Knit Top<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span>Burda WOF June 2007 #110<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span>Italian Viscose Lycra Knit<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3sqylTqpBeoazK9jmfbX5cea9jjCwEY7EnOXVvGQZQVdGBxdsPDXtUiBYnbPKUb_DB1EEm3T8uVQZ_kehA-8WDsJwyDY6un84rYkFFlXA-EIA_X7bmXXSY8LUNX-8ASzkEKmExg/s1600-h/BWOF+607+110+ld.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3sqylTqpBeoazK9jmfbX5cea9jjCwEY7EnOXVvGQZQVdGBxdsPDXtUiBYnbPKUb_DB1EEm3T8uVQZ_kehA-8WDsJwyDY6un84rYkFFlXA-EIA_X7bmXXSY8LUNX-8ASzkEKmExg/s200/BWOF+607+110+ld.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5076378768594352594" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Details/Pattern Specs</span><br />An interesting little project.Features front raglan and back set in sleeves.<br />There is no side seam , the back pattern piece swings forwards and extends into the front lower section.<br />The front neckline has a deep but narrow scoop.Raised by 5mm, and needed to hack off about 4 cm from the binding.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Note that binding length may be wrong.States 80cm for all the sizes<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdhEVpUOnUGj6bpIsmtAtV_zH5SF6snaWPZLpYC_2uaQ4U6oqRdVf9vSsqETuJIYVbu9dQqIOkqWSetTy2-Gn3Rp-m8bTMG5FFl61dXu0nuBm8M_hX3qPYGJSOI2Qo9E9LvfQdKg/s1600-h/BWOF+607+110+back.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdhEVpUOnUGj6bpIsmtAtV_zH5SF6snaWPZLpYC_2uaQ4U6oqRdVf9vSsqETuJIYVbu9dQqIOkqWSetTy2-Gn3Rp-m8bTMG5FFl61dXu0nuBm8M_hX3qPYGJSOI2Qo9E9LvfQdKg/s200/BWOF+607+110+back.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5076378768594352610" border="0" /></a>Flawless seam match eh? No way.May offer design possibilties with narrower stripes.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwwUs4WtU1aLO8M20PzsDhj_BxJphp6lS_BQVSLAjM1Z2WNwsFt_q7Qk49yywPmXvx3rhDMH3Q3C9btS7MoDGPb9uR8wQVKDAtU2VAMxKMFe01gJGvTNLGibRVrU0B68KSQZ32A/s1600-h/BWOF+607+110+seam.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwwUs4WtU1aLO8M20PzsDhj_BxJphp6lS_BQVSLAjM1Z2WNwsFt_q7Qk49yywPmXvx3rhDMH3Q3C9btS7MoDGPb9uR8wQVKDAtU2VAMxKMFe01gJGvTNLGibRVrU0B68KSQZ32A/s200/BWOF+607+110+seam.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5076378768594352626" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Modifications.</span><br />Alteration for my figure xteristics.The seaming makes it easy to adjust for a full bust using the princess seam method.<br />Length extended by 6cm.<br />Need to consider size to make, offers less room for waist dimension alterations.<br />Uses only 1.10 mteres.Have pulled out fabrics for a few more renditions.<br />Gets an A+Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-65023899331954038862007-06-10T02:07:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:12.089-06:00Bergere de France Knitting Patterns<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSz1q3ugjKHLCoe9liS6BGHJd7P9jNQyX9X1F0HV8c1ChTdQV7QKNeUMoC0B_OMWhcirJEhP4VRZ-cDt_X5sBsPGzsYNkqw7TcGWMG2YiA8oJQgNJjyHBcFVZHrVno_JmkEM_wxw/s1600-h/BdF+Cd+print+out.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSz1q3ugjKHLCoe9liS6BGHJd7P9jNQyX9X1F0HV8c1ChTdQV7QKNeUMoC0B_OMWhcirJEhP4VRZ-cDt_X5sBsPGzsYNkqw7TcGWMG2YiA8oJQgNJjyHBcFVZHrVno_JmkEM_wxw/s320/BdF+Cd+print+out.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074345616975772050" border="0" /></a>Whilst looking for new knitting projects to pack for transit , I pulled out and printed the above pattern from 2002/2003 season off the CD.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Bergere de France Review</span><br /><a href="http://www.bergeredefrance.fr/home.phtml">Bergere de France</a> is perhaps the other big knitting patterns/yarn company from France<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:85%;" >( Phildar the other)</span><br />The new catalogue and swatch books are now available for 2007/2008 season.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">French language patterns</span><br />1.Excellent knitting patterns for whole family in the main pattern book.<br />2.Series of smaller focused pattern books throughout the year.<br /><a href="http://www.bergeredefrance.fr/trico/trico.phtml?id_rubrique=1"> 3.Tricotheque: </a>Great free knitting patterns to download and print.<br />4.Swatch Book: They have a swatch book priced 5.00 euro , usually given free to EU customers that contain all the current yarns and actual yarn snips<br />5. Many of the patterns have instruction/tensions for machine knitting.The books have the equivalent KM tensions for the 4.5mm as well as the 5mm knitting machines.<br />6.Ready to wear collection.<br />7. Good selection of knitting books( in French) , accessories and bricolage.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Please note: I have only used the French knitting patterns.They have translated some of the patterns to English , I have no experience or desire to try out.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXhx6Cjrgd_WSQkdUGuv0cZfcWPpmcDdOMkU_y7AB2Ucrlr3VkE0zGeuqZYipm0S1weHnHKcj0SMNOgDASg5Vsdhm_xD1mx356f-MZYmn3a6cRXk58gYCij6j1K2BRWuC_1WqiQg/s1600-h/BdF+Swatch+book.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXhx6Cjrgd_WSQkdUGuv0cZfcWPpmcDdOMkU_y7AB2Ucrlr3VkE0zGeuqZYipm0S1weHnHKcj0SMNOgDASg5Vsdhm_xD1mx356f-MZYmn3a6cRXk58gYCij6j1K2BRWuC_1WqiQg/s320/BdF+Swatch+book.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074345621270739378" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Bergere de France CD</span><br />They produce an annual CD containing the current patterns and extra bonus patterns from previous season inedits, free patterns , spring/ summer special ,bebe, layette edtions.These would have been sold for 2.5-4.50 euros each,that equals an extra 150 or so modeles on each CD.<br />Okay one miss out of the extra four or so glossy magazines, but at 3.90 euros , a bargain still.<br />The CD is suitable for both PC and MAC annd interactive.Can be used in conjunction with the internet and website.<br />They have issued four CDs form 2003/2004 to date , the fifth will be the new 2007/2008 edition.The CDs are still available on the website if you know how to search.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Bergeroscope</span><br />Great facility (in the current ) and I suspect subsequent ones<br />Full list of all the yarns they have ever made.Complete yarn listings with tension, metrage, compostion, suitablity for MK, washing instructions and cross reference with current and discontinued yarns to make substitutions.<br />That is a yarn company that knows how to do business.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMut20_wwu_uqCoAbL_ZebCc4NuDqIrBiEM7OpnOQZyqvYqRvRxa6q6FOuUWM0FNn_Xx7ohpjv-FaK4_1ysrXprKWBhJdEwPzyX_H8uzgVjMY0mMmyHJEgT5QjP5avpnsKDY9DYw/s1600-h/BdF+catalogues.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMut20_wwu_uqCoAbL_ZebCc4NuDqIrBiEM7OpnOQZyqvYqRvRxa6q6FOuUWM0FNn_Xx7ohpjv-FaK4_1ysrXprKWBhJdEwPzyX_H8uzgVjMY0mMmyHJEgT5QjP5avpnsKDY9DYw/s320/BdF+catalogues.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5074345616975772066" border="0" /></a>Great mail order service , the postage to United Kingdom and presumably the rest of Europe is very minimal, about a third of what I pay from the Phildar website.<br /><br />For the North Americas, I have no personal experience but the swatch books/pattern books and yarns are available out of Canada from <a href="http://www.clubdirectlaine.ca/">Club Direct Laine</a>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-21224555005642785972007-06-03T03:23:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:12.589-06:00FO:Burda WOF 5/07 # 147 Moss Stitch Pullover<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3pyDtTGBEgYtYullhPX_Qit_gEM_sPnpgKpUajxGx4TG3yQXARILGRqmfo6Xc8Rv_G-hgGo1lAdd83CEI_29sIczP8BkKR-1KaG10-wAUEjc7JbBkceT5TVuioxFx_REtKZ7h7w/s1600-h/BWOF+507+grey+jumper+b.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3pyDtTGBEgYtYullhPX_Qit_gEM_sPnpgKpUajxGx4TG3yQXARILGRqmfo6Xc8Rv_G-hgGo1lAdd83CEI_29sIczP8BkKR-1KaG10-wAUEjc7JbBkceT5TVuioxFx_REtKZ7h7w/s320/BWOF+507+grey+jumper+b.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5071771040224947618" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern</span><br />Burda WOF May 2007 # 147<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Description</span><br />Short sleeve pullover( jumper to me) with fine rice/moss stitch and clever contrast of short sleeves and turtleneck collar<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCSVYLM3PGLY0sCEFN92pAHeTqjsRfNlmPVslS4CCXZrAMJ7b2mWwKvCfrp5khwTf3Pd9mQkuiVRFTZSWWiX1xx5VrCT3TXqzutMD4Ry1BbWa0tVEbs838G5B1EY8FioJtTEaRw/s1600-h/BWOF+507+Red+Jumper.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCSVYLM3PGLY0sCEFN92pAHeTqjsRfNlmPVslS4CCXZrAMJ7b2mWwKvCfrp5khwTf3Pd9mQkuiVRFTZSWWiX1xx5VrCT3TXqzutMD4Ry1BbWa0tVEbs838G5B1EY8FioJtTEaRw/s320/BWOF+507+Red+Jumper.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5071771044519914930" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Original Yarn:</span><br />Samoa Mouline 50% Cotton 50% Acrylic<br />Perhaps the best of the aran weight cotton acrylic blends<br />Suitable subs include Rowan ASC, Phildar Aviso, Katia , Lion Brand Cotton Ease<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Yarn Used:</span><br />Gedifra Sport 100% Superwash wool in Grey<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8p88Mj8vl-AEBqKzQd_6serYlZQyyu71s6SBDRd0843yWsCG46VAOnF6HARoPw-XJJwaR4ZbInkkykaEob6dAAmw0pKmcknub_1vE6VBS4OXSttMMSnXIU8Nd-kyBEdKd5Clo6Q/s1600-h/BWOF+507+grey+jumper+cables.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8p88Mj8vl-AEBqKzQd_6serYlZQyyu71s6SBDRd0843yWsCG46VAOnF6HARoPw-XJJwaR4ZbInkkykaEob6dAAmw0pKmcknub_1vE6VBS4OXSttMMSnXIU8Nd-kyBEdKd5Clo6Q/s320/BWOF+507+grey+jumper+cables.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5071771044519914946" border="0" /></a>Straight forward pattern instructions.Has many of the details of continental knitting ( Europe) patterns .<br /><br />Charts with written descriptions of symbols.<br />Use of edge stitches for better finish.<br />Shaping explicitly spelt out<span style="font-weight: bold;"> ( Rowan , Rowan oh Rowan LOL)</span><br />Full fashioned decreases giving a RTW look .<br />Use of increasing needle sizes to shape the collar.<br /><br />The fit is uber snug.Matched the tension swatch and the finished measurements.Gives the illusion of a vintage knit.<br />I needed to shortrow about 6cm for FBA ( fun keeping the small/ large cables/ moss stitch patterns correct)<br />Sleeves were made longer by about 4cm<br />Used 4mm and 4.5mm DPNs for the collar( unable to locate smaller circular needles)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWe0GY3512gf2NecKXfjtHWdfo7sD4jtY3_Bw5QlvEFpE3HB2fssTLdPxx1AUHNA1s_-8QdEBGEDN5aBSzFLdyexqLntoCqd1cNuIizGTBGHyMJ3L7qCSGMZ7hT0uhjKjqB4-mvQ/s1600-h/BWOF+507+grey+jumper+detail.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWe0GY3512gf2NecKXfjtHWdfo7sD4jtY3_Bw5QlvEFpE3HB2fssTLdPxx1AUHNA1s_-8QdEBGEDN5aBSzFLdyexqLntoCqd1cNuIizGTBGHyMJ3L7qCSGMZ7hT0uhjKjqB4-mvQ/s320/BWOF+507+grey+jumper+detail.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5071771048814882258" border="0" /></a>Great little top.I opted for wool as heavier close fit knits dont quite go with summer.<br />Burda WOF had almost always featured knitting patterns , <span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:85%;" >as far as my collection goes from about 1981</span> The number had dwindled in the last few years, but with Verena in hiatus , perhaps more???<br />Cant wait fot the June 2007 issue which promises another superb selection of hand knitsAbihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-79221968379768240122007-05-23T02:36:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:13.785-06:00Vogue DKNY 2951 suit et al<span style="font-weight: bold;">Patterns</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Jacket:</span> Vogue DKNY # 2951<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Plain skirt:</span> Butterick 3637 OOP<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Knit Top:</span>Simplicity 4076 View E<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfWyG8914qQg3tBLII5f6ZKkf8r6YqLzPBM-Wy5vCqPUa5E3_fcIp09RgUQj86w0-7cxd48SOkz2AFQ2rViJIdEDpmAPqEyFxYrtgoUgLIe7AC17SaOUDVAfUjZQKKCFWla2PNw/s1600-h/Vogue+2951+DKNY+Suit+B.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfWyG8914qQg3tBLII5f6ZKkf8r6YqLzPBM-Wy5vCqPUa5E3_fcIp09RgUQj86w0-7cxd48SOkz2AFQ2rViJIdEDpmAPqEyFxYrtgoUgLIe7AC17SaOUDVAfUjZQKKCFWla2PNw/s200/Vogue+2951+DKNY+Suit+B.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067673632834628930" border="0" /></a><span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabrics</span></span><br />Jacket:Tobacco Solbiati Linen<br />Print skirt: Ungaro Cotton Sateen with lycra<br />Knit Top: Spun Viscose Knit( san lycra)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguryUwKY62WbU0ZrU94Ier6W2GzsE-e_fBK8__IOpISCjN5PJtPSZc4Ae3Mx1ZxpFF7DLbNHeokeH0QiuP8ZpTfW9hBWs4EwctFJ1LMs48CicMb4-w-0_3xYarD70z22C48NmG7g/s1600-h/Vogue+2951.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguryUwKY62WbU0ZrU94Ier6W2GzsE-e_fBK8__IOpISCjN5PJtPSZc4Ae3Mx1ZxpFF7DLbNHeokeH0QiuP8ZpTfW9hBWs4EwctFJ1LMs48CicMb4-w-0_3xYarD70z22C48NmG7g/s200/Vogue+2951.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067673637129596242" border="0" /></a><span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Modification/Details</span><br />Semi fitted lined jacket with patch pockets, princess seams in back, topstitched design trim and buttoned front.<br />Main distinguishing details are the sleeves.<br />Three piece combination sleeve , that is set in front and raglan back.<br />Not unusual ,I have made severaljackets with como sleeves from Donna Karan , recently Bill Blass.There is a brown longer length coat in January 2007 Burda WOF.<br />The combo can raglan front or back.<br />Note***** The sleeves are only 7/8th ,just about obvious on the pattern envelope but not mentioned/ no measurements<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGzvj3PV4VFvQeSppgpooHhn915Io05SpPYRoPDDIWSaK-nfqJNxhGvQWUP94t-zN_CGurryn_3GGmq1xHm4GaKH2p_1xUvFuu2sxLqm8kT0NDKfdlZZaTkDP5KDNBJJO__xtZg/s1600-h/Vogue+2951+skirt.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGzvj3PV4VFvQeSppgpooHhn915Io05SpPYRoPDDIWSaK-nfqJNxhGvQWUP94t-zN_CGurryn_3GGmq1xHm4GaKH2p_1xUvFuu2sxLqm8kT0NDKfdlZZaTkDP5KDNBJJO__xtZg/s200/Vogue+2951+skirt.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067673641424563554" border="0" /></a><br />Tulip style skirt.Omitted the pockets. didnt have enough for fabric and I wouldnt wear with extrahip widening features.The yoke lining was done in the plain linen and edges finished with bias strips on Ambiance lining<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikrBMcmNdso_lF401mhkmFtg3E89LEfMBvp69U-0zDLijw_i7W1aiHENXPoBvc5bX7fZKpGkwvz-zD26aPaiSdhyphenhyphenkk4wm2Li635ZtKcQbsyvXzGFaCha3Z6cal5p93ZBa86gz_4w/s1600-h/Vogue+2951+%26+B3637+skirt.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikrBMcmNdso_lF401mhkmFtg3E89LEfMBvp69U-0zDLijw_i7W1aiHENXPoBvc5bX7fZKpGkwvz-zD26aPaiSdhyphenhyphenkk4wm2Li635ZtKcQbsyvXzGFaCha3Z6cal5p93ZBa86gz_4w/s200/Vogue+2951+%26+B3637+skirt.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067675080238607762" border="0" /></a><br />Smart move to make a plain( non faddy) skirt.<br />Plain A-line fully lined skirt.OOP Butterick 3637<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiWCXX4pKLVeZ_09JyssSWuwlLCM_HaqQFovfkD_yt_G_AZ2hVq8g8wfGBMF6CkETliGyBB6sfhhrMPUEHISf22WrxIUzMq2wx4_Jk724ANa0n31Ev30U-VRDbj2kBf0HwM1wKhw/s1600-h/VS+Tobacco+Ensemble.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiWCXX4pKLVeZ_09JyssSWuwlLCM_HaqQFovfkD_yt_G_AZ2hVq8g8wfGBMF6CkETliGyBB6sfhhrMPUEHISf22WrxIUzMq2wx4_Jk724ANa0n31Ev30U-VRDbj2kBf0HwM1wKhw/s200/VS+Tobacco+Ensemble.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5067673645719530882" border="0" /></a>Finally a quick knit top.<br />Simplicity 4076 View E in spun viscose knit.Not very stretchy so needed to size up.<br />Me , I prefer Butterick 3391 OOP View E , with a slightly pulled effect over the gathered area and better suited for suits<br /><br /></span>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-32093504300009576082007-05-20T02:25:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:14.790-06:00Patrones # 241 Dolce & Gabbana Coat<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtXDd82Z0H0EcdAHUrBHuS0YHE0RbHxg29MxXGeGs-1GHpbjSpWFhrLL3L2xL_9PiwloLzB27k6lbl-id5T-Z6wy78K0XZjsZxVhJpcfNwocNjTS3wK0z0G_lmFJYi6EOpxe1mRw/s1600-h/Patrones+241++49+Coat+front.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtXDd82Z0H0EcdAHUrBHuS0YHE0RbHxg29MxXGeGs-1GHpbjSpWFhrLL3L2xL_9PiwloLzB27k6lbl-id5T-Z6wy78K0XZjsZxVhJpcfNwocNjTS3wK0z0G_lmFJYi6EOpxe1mRw/s200/Patrones+241++49+Coat+front.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066559410943864018" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project: Patrones 241 #49 Abrigo Dolce & Gabbana<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_0uR9KqXr_A4dv07WKjJEZWq-bW7KKhCPO_qiECWFKNouSxHHMYoNaScYgVRqpJ-U-0DjfbjvdHdd-Tih5F-4DkGeEZAVGF7aTGTGXtbBAHRq269OyeuS-HpN8pEqy64XPe0JA/s1600-h/Patrones+241+49.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_0uR9KqXr_A4dv07WKjJEZWq-bW7KKhCPO_qiECWFKNouSxHHMYoNaScYgVRqpJ-U-0DjfbjvdHdd-Tih5F-4DkGeEZAVGF7aTGTGXtbBAHRq269OyeuS-HpN8pEqy64XPe0JA/s200/Patrones+241+49.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066559415238831330" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span> Linen Tweed and Blue Denim<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lining:</span> Taupe/Blue Twill lining<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Notions:</span> Jeans Snap on Buttons, Polyester Sew All and Generic Topstitching Threads<br />The linen tweed was a cross between burlap and hopsacking .Underlined the entire coat with fusible tricot knit interfacing as underlining.Needed to use denim needles for construction<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5SSrDXE7JoXih_msO6DdSEjdnt_-9CMixYM26QAcIOcAq99BnOY1hlEQOdhDJ052VJBz4rErKtwMWhC1e6qqDcw5f2tnqNPj1T3HRtJ1teUnVLOAMaEB7BtwNY2DkfuzCmZcH3A/s1600-h/Patrones+Coat+combi.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5SSrDXE7JoXih_msO6DdSEjdnt_-9CMixYM26QAcIOcAq99BnOY1hlEQOdhDJ052VJBz4rErKtwMWhC1e6qqDcw5f2tnqNPj1T3HRtJ1teUnVLOAMaEB7BtwNY2DkfuzCmZcH3A/s200/Patrones+Coat+combi.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066559415238831346" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern Details</span><br />The coat pattern style lines made up of shoulder princess seams with denim front and sleeve bands.Nehru style collar.The edges on front and sleeves denim pieces and fabric collar were fringed.The draft of the Patrones pattern/s ( perhaps in general ) require some work.<br />Style led variations( the usual nonsense about following designer lines as opposed to recreate the pattern based on in house standard sloper) equals sizing and fit all over the place.<br />Omit a muslin at one,s peril???<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishRmvpUZtjUE_eOzpsFSbFOunG-DXxsbgUF4MnIsJRWSCAfu6sPpaIzPamnPNIETg6uFunZMdNokUGivcXpsSl1GIeg6NAK__VPA4W39OLHcLN1EMvLq16VpqYXziWL9kEptOmg/s1600-h/Patrones+241+Coat+back.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishRmvpUZtjUE_eOzpsFSbFOunG-DXxsbgUF4MnIsJRWSCAfu6sPpaIzPamnPNIETg6uFunZMdNokUGivcXpsSl1GIeg6NAK__VPA4W39OLHcLN1EMvLq16VpqYXziWL9kEptOmg/s200/Patrones+241+Coat+back.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066559419533798658" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Modifications:<br /><br /></span>1.Traced and altered the Patrones pattern pieces , made a quick muslin and realised it was going to require some hard work making it work,The landmark measurements didnt match their published ones<br /><br />2.Decided to graft the essential style lines onto Vogue 7978 coat pattern.Used the View E<br />Cannibalised the front and sleeve pattern pieces, fudged the armscye.<br /><br />3.The edges on the denim pieces left raw.Rust topstitching threads( From a FabricDive in Toronto) was used and they were straddled 5mm from edge with fine zigzag stitches.<br /><br />4.Used unfringed self fabric collar<br /><br />5.Pocket flaps lined with denim as per Patrones instructions , but I omitted the top upper pockets<br /><br />6.I needed to rewrite the order of sewing to suit my changes and the method for lining the coat, which was completed on the machine.<br /><br />Patrones Instructions<br />They are in Spanish, and even with translation they are terse and dont give too many details.<br />Nothing to whinge about.One takes these things as they are.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj6GgPf5yeQm7JktExl3EqPIvEkEgiXUmOEnIgE9DHMMjNVf1XtXJnQvBWaSRD0sngrPaeaDg6BGIFzA9lbFBwAOTVN_c6gVdgGiVl2C0NAvucywhSyj-Voq1fux4AGfAEpThcfQ/s1600-h/Patrones+241+Coat+front+closeup.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj6GgPf5yeQm7JktExl3EqPIvEkEgiXUmOEnIgE9DHMMjNVf1XtXJnQvBWaSRD0sngrPaeaDg6BGIFzA9lbFBwAOTVN_c6gVdgGiVl2C0NAvucywhSyj-Voq1fux4AGfAEpThcfQ/s200/Patrones+241+Coat+front+closeup.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066559419533798674" border="0" /></a>Close up view front<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJSeHM2U5ZaJxylFT_igKNO_PLNG0yqYyeK1oJBcUANmwlQvpmQxQKLFA7ul6llUdqcQct_Z5zNvjlypzIuCnctDWexpOpYTTGQYkXwehuNbzmXxRzrSv9n8gXRNYaj2KJNYKPYw/s1600-h/Patrones+241+deschillado.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJSeHM2U5ZaJxylFT_igKNO_PLNG0yqYyeK1oJBcUANmwlQvpmQxQKLFA7ul6llUdqcQct_Z5zNvjlypzIuCnctDWexpOpYTTGQYkXwehuNbzmXxRzrSv9n8gXRNYaj2KJNYKPYw/s200/Patrones+241+deschillado.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066560282822225186" border="0" /></a>View of the distressed raw edges( which will drive me nuts as they fray?)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigLNQlXARDfAQ4iVLt_oV86VY8AzULxBZFNDZprdcb5fNy2-sslTHOc_cVouIv2AK7ND-RMaWruDXXCRhnEID5siYHDVdDY_lxVpeVa3ZUnypzZbS7YY-IewnDRyubjDt05HrGYg/s1600-h/Patrones+241+Inside+view.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigLNQlXARDfAQ4iVLt_oV86VY8AzULxBZFNDZprdcb5fNy2-sslTHOc_cVouIv2AK7ND-RMaWruDXXCRhnEID5siYHDVdDY_lxVpeVa3ZUnypzZbS7YY-IewnDRyubjDt05HrGYg/s200/Patrones+241+Inside+view.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066560282822225202" border="0" /></a><br />Inside view showing the lining<br /><br />Nice coat which will make a great weekend topper.Perhaps passe but I have never cared about being in fashion.<br />Wont be making again but this particular Patrones # 241 is one of the best in my collection.<br />I have made half a dozen garments from it , and have several more on the wish list.<br />The matching skirt I have also made to go with another suit. Coming soonAbihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-46685903910674266942007-05-14T09:20:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:14.942-06:00Soon Come, Soon Come, ? Soon Come<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2kpkIOpB3A-03iFThQw-biIXMNqwxnGbEDe-qioIU53BeY4Ajvq4H8Y_wDPf1UnDWjopTHYIHdBhuuJ6wrVnWDNFN4pP7Nr2WdQdSuVPGbV5u0t4rMiaOYhu13r5Hxlr3C07MA/s1600-h/000001214376.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2kpkIOpB3A-03iFThQw-biIXMNqwxnGbEDe-qioIU53BeY4Ajvq4H8Y_wDPf1UnDWjopTHYIHdBhuuJ6wrVnWDNFN4pP7Nr2WdQdSuVPGbV5u0t4rMiaOYhu13r5Hxlr3C07MA/s320/000001214376.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5064439484269662610" border="0" /></a><br />Soon Come , pidgin way of saying "I'll right back in a jiffy"<br />Sewing , Knitting , Looking at and Gleaning details from RTW, and the rest of life , just not in the mood to blog.<br /><br />Line drawing above , a couple of the dozen or so garments I have finished in the past four weeks.Just need to find the will and time to put up pictures<br /><br />Bad news from Burda Publishing.Verena and Anna and its special publications have been axed.<br /><a href="http://www.burdamode.com/Foren,1000002-1016197-1016198,deDE.html?forum=1">German link</a> to Burda website forum with the editorial team fielding questions<br />Carry on whingeing about Burda WOF .....................................................<br /><br />Great ( new to me) Sew-4-Fun <a href="http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/">blog</a> with an excellent primer on <a href="http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/2007/05/i-love-topstitching_12.html">Topstitching</a>.Bonus is that the lady sews on the same machine brand I use.<br />CiaoAbihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-15288729659619435732007-04-22T15:26:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:15.561-06:00More Knit Tops, and Work progress<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6N-Q7kadz6kS7tvyMv7P1CdG2z-i4MFxtKWxD6PRfuo1HkgFkJFwFyUKiTkjIf3cHwL8N32nRyiu0exbW-mN4hL_gXbHSNcEuOIenDeZiohJ6YiDCPuKxoR8sTq6jDclbp0SgRA/s1600-h/Vogue+2951+supplies.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6N-Q7kadz6kS7tvyMv7P1CdG2z-i4MFxtKWxD6PRfuo1HkgFkJFwFyUKiTkjIf3cHwL8N32nRyiu0exbW-mN4hL_gXbHSNcEuOIenDeZiohJ6YiDCPuKxoR8sTq6jDclbp0SgRA/s320/Vogue+2951+supplies.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056368852701508802" border="0" /></a>No crafting at all in the last few days.I have managed however to turn the above pile into one lined jacket , and two skirts.Have a couple of coordinating prints pulled out that I may quickly rustle up before changing colour scheme, re-prep overlocker and sewing machines.<br />I am itching to get cracking on my blue/blue tone pile ASAP.<br /><br />New magazines to keep me on focus, The Fiesta edition of Patrones mid week , then Vogue Knitting magazine S/S 07, Sew Stylish , and Rowan Kasbah Collection.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Details</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span> Self drafted skirt<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span> Matte Viscose Jersey, Lined with skintone tricot<br />Just took a couple of measurements,cut into the fabrics directly after charting the outlines ,used a contour elastic treatment.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">"Cut and Sew" </span>is a term probably familiar to tailors/ dressmakers from African & Asia.<br />This entails pattern drafting directly onto fabric with chalk and tapemeasure or onto brown paper for more complex designs.It involves understanding and application of drafting rules , and takes a few years to master.They can recreate just about any designs just from looking at magazine pictures<br />Unfortunately I didnt develop the skills/expertise and therefore a minion to paper patterns<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAtGKO3TjVur4-DM5E4UNDkPIU3ohyphenhyphenD5cOBVnyMIOtUy2nahAYmCggVQk3LJaXre-KooVrB7MwqddHVC4ripJEOsTXLQJYvINJQEO0azCSXQhBrAw-dwQjP34t579tRlnspKg5Zw/s1600-h/Self+draft+knit+floral+skirt+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAtGKO3TjVur4-DM5E4UNDkPIU3ohyphenhyphenD5cOBVnyMIOtUy2nahAYmCggVQk3LJaXre-KooVrB7MwqddHVC4ripJEOsTXLQJYvINJQEO0azCSXQhBrAw-dwQjP34t579tRlnspKg5Zw/s320/Self+draft+knit+floral+skirt+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056368856996476114" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Details</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern: </span>Simplicity 4020 View C<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span> Viscose Lycra knit.<br />Okay top, easy enough to make , guess it will be great to peek through a boring severe suit.<br />The shoulder tuck/pleats are a bit weird even on the pattern envelope and I will not advise pivoting and transfer of side darts there<br />I may make a plain version?My plain knits tend to be the more expensive from my sources and therefore get used for really basic designs.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwGsYzFVUWo3owwWUbMLjoquhfp0ZzaN0d11hPWUgrIr6EiY3N0nUaeb5ehlBG5rJ5GEnyiLDWy_j0sGXn1IWq3dGfJ3S4NNgERU0k2HCxs_zP3CkfYMipAuiGnN64E-026iZyg/s1600-h/Simplicity+4020++cap+sleeve+top.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwGsYzFVUWo3owwWUbMLjoquhfp0ZzaN0d11hPWUgrIr6EiY3N0nUaeb5ehlBG5rJ5GEnyiLDWy_j0sGXn1IWq3dGfJ3S4NNgERU0k2HCxs_zP3CkfYMipAuiGnN64E-026iZyg/s320/Simplicity+4020++cap+sleeve+top.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5056368856996476130" border="0" /></a>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-64392748669693362282007-04-20T00:21:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:16.224-06:00FO: Vogue # 1332 Geoffrey Beene Jacket<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjexzorzja4s2BH_MEORsZ99mexmaQcAvMaPMzerP60hHArY3ipIpxcXjQrGoin-8v0mGgy_ZQvLTNu0oI2t2eCgPT-6Lfdm77m6DHNupHS5cX_vnAGcj2bUMO918jL86FjQjyQAQ/s1600-h/Vogue+1332+pattern.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjexzorzja4s2BH_MEORsZ99mexmaQcAvMaPMzerP60hHArY3ipIpxcXjQrGoin-8v0mGgy_ZQvLTNu0oI2t2eCgPT-6Lfdm77m6DHNupHS5cX_vnAGcj2bUMO918jL86FjQjyQAQ/s320/Vogue+1332+pattern.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5055395621702169762" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Details</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span>Vogue # 1332 Geoffrey Beene OOP<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabrics: </span>Novelty Linen, Black Linen as contrast<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lining:</span> Mill end logo'ed black Ambiance<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwi5f5A3ABPWISVojMOW3cOp0uDD31e1LLxW2OxLpUNK4DBC-ODm5-QwDZFqj_7sUkHKCjAZ33Y08pkL4LSdbekd4bahf4c0YDATX5FXzoZa3FfTBPYrGV8Yr8HuLplYUe2-QXQ/s1600-h/Vogue+1332+jacket+1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwi5f5A3ABPWISVojMOW3cOp0uDD31e1LLxW2OxLpUNK4DBC-ODm5-QwDZFqj_7sUkHKCjAZ33Y08pkL4LSdbekd4bahf4c0YDATX5FXzoZa3FfTBPYrGV8Yr8HuLplYUe2-QXQ/s320/Vogue+1332+jacket+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5055395617407202434" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mods/Specifications:</span><br />Very OOP copyright date 1994<br />Loose fitting lined below hip jacket has back neckband extending slightly to front, shoulder pads, right welt , pocket, side slits , shaped front hemline, back seam detail and long sleeves.<br />Great pattern with only <a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=/c7a9re2&.dnm=4f6bre2.jpg&.src=ph">three major pattern pieces </a><br /><br />FBA done by making an L slash , pivot and slide.The dart created needed to be transferred and since there is no side seam , the dart ended up in the front lower armhole area.<br /><br />Made a major major major blopper .Despite a few practice welts, annotated pattern instructions, I managed to sew <span style="font-weight: bold;">two instead of the single welt pocket.YIKES.</span><br />I guess that is a small price for sewing in the middle of the night.<br />I usually get a substantial portion of my sewing done in the wee hours when on call, as attending from home.Once up and awake , best way to cope with the insomnia and waiting around.<br />Usually though I try not to get into major or fiddly construction parts like collars, welts , etc.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIIq9tVru_GapqR58peosm0VkdatpWqTO4ZVEGVVbrZ_5kYUq4XKoVmeqE6GJJ4u94OVPjK_8ce96YhXTQwsj4QXTET3ycbnQKqlAdBVVh320IGXN2DUbW8TiOQSImAtz0gFxQw/s1600-h/Vogue+1332+jacket+collar+inset.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIIq9tVru_GapqR58peosm0VkdatpWqTO4ZVEGVVbrZ_5kYUq4XKoVmeqE6GJJ4u94OVPjK_8ce96YhXTQwsj4QXTET3ycbnQKqlAdBVVh320IGXN2DUbW8TiOQSImAtz0gFxQw/s320/Vogue+1332+jacket+collar+inset.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5055395617407202450" border="0" /></a><br />Collar/Jacket Front Insert.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz33CcrOVerXaqYXmYq7pv7QMruwFqX_C7toU2prwW51g1FQwior5EmjuDTxcSeZc9_AegVLWOeSGrutGUiLBYHiMR778RcADi8ymd0Mh_l6dU-JpQDfZ_bVaM7zFT0j-yMTUNyA/s1600-h/Vogue+1332+jacket+side.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz33CcrOVerXaqYXmYq7pv7QMruwFqX_C7toU2prwW51g1FQwior5EmjuDTxcSeZc9_AegVLWOeSGrutGUiLBYHiMR778RcADi8ymd0Mh_l6dU-JpQDfZ_bVaM7zFT0j-yMTUNyA/s320/Vogue+1332+jacket+side.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5055395621702169778" border="0" /></a>Side Jacket view , no side seams.<br />There's loads of wobbly topstitching( bad bad sewer eh) .The nature of the base fabric meant that any of the other colours( grey, white, winter white ) just didnt work .Guess I should have also used different distances between the edge and topstitching.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:85%;" >BACK TO NODDY SEWING SCHOOL </span><br />Me . I am not an overthinking overprocessing purist, and can live with minor or even major sewing faux pas. Guess the sewing and messing things up is the best way for me to improve my skills Better luck or choices next time.<br />However this jacket has already been worn this week and I am loving it.<br /><br />I would love to make it again in a plain winter weight fabric/ colour .But I have a dozen or so other Geoffrey Beenes OOP and scazillion other Vogue designer patterns on the wishlist.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-39275735031515940672007-04-16T16:28:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:16.949-06:00FO SS 2007 Knits Part 1<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qbsuEULpYUrTKh5jT-l8Bn4kJMy8G0_psmGjePtjiajMCXXq6PaR6sGgtHoWS_RMTvipqQaoRDDQxORsUUtJ0QBeblvqksOYgNhqjeiFiiIHN0Yi8wyIg5olSvHuPONA90lsyA/s1600-h/Knit+Patterns+Collage.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qbsuEULpYUrTKh5jT-l8Bn4kJMy8G0_psmGjePtjiajMCXXq6PaR6sGgtHoWS_RMTvipqQaoRDDQxORsUUtJ0QBeblvqksOYgNhqjeiFiiIHN0Yi8wyIg5olSvHuPONA90lsyA/s320/Knit+Patterns+Collage.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054159246762681554" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtUhSJ8GFKqz9lW2bnAES0mFNotgbR7mJ8rHjb_sKwYYmxheZjjeEZhNca4ekxe7JaHjf7gze21vNqkKPzzKIh6ie0KQswkYM5vzVWPKdpjNctqf7iXMcek5TN4ZPWj2rSDcHGg/s1600-h/BWOF+1206+Wrap+top+1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtUhSJ8GFKqz9lW2bnAES0mFNotgbR7mJ8rHjb_sKwYYmxheZjjeEZhNca4ekxe7JaHjf7gze21vNqkKPzzKIh6ie0KQswkYM5vzVWPKdpjNctqf7iXMcek5TN4ZPWj2rSDcHGg/s320/BWOF+1206+Wrap+top+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054159251057648866" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span> Burda WOF December 2006 <a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=76d2re2&.dnm=8264re2.jpg"><span style="text-decoration: underline;">#118</span></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric: </span>Viscose lycra knit<br />Used Burda WOF May 2006 <a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=76d2re2&.dnm=a7cbre2.jpg&.src=ph">#127 </a>( last two in picture collage) to extend the wrap overlay, extending to close to side seam.<br />Tank peeking is Burda WOF January #123, sleeveless tank with bust darts.Armholes and neckline finished with cream/blue picot elastic<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRS4zsZNJKZQkG0A3oXXFUGlSAf6sccEpenZZ1NaYmO76OeOP1l2K5zhEjAZoAsCTL6JtTwdToZpB2XZHOXxd20IRg5beaf05KEuwCkBkb9KW4JVy9M02VJrklTiRXvmzJcBCQKw/s1600-h/BWOF+407+Wrap+top.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRS4zsZNJKZQkG0A3oXXFUGlSAf6sccEpenZZ1NaYmO76OeOP1l2K5zhEjAZoAsCTL6JtTwdToZpB2XZHOXxd20IRg5beaf05KEuwCkBkb9KW4JVy9M02VJrklTiRXvmzJcBCQKw/s320/BWOF+407+Wrap+top.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054159251057648882" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Details</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern: </span>Burda WOF April 2007 <a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=76d2re2&.dnm=d993re2.jpg&.src=ph">#107 </a>( first picture third row)<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span> Cotton lycra Knit<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Edging: </span>Cream frilled elastic, ruffle dipped pink.<br />Omitted the picot trim on the sleeve and body hems<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhx9VbtTZQh9zPJs-XGJQty7T60XV7tj9u-J7MXx-7jXUFoCQnf5igcRMBnzWdhVc0xSXeqYCLw0S84ssg-0tUgX6QWTHzXgs4qTBZw1VvrVyKgDOzu9mblS2cY_vSKMPtxZCzg/s1600-h/BWOF+407+Wrap+top+detail.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhx9VbtTZQh9zPJs-XGJQty7T60XV7tj9u-J7MXx-7jXUFoCQnf5igcRMBnzWdhVc0xSXeqYCLw0S84ssg-0tUgX6QWTHzXgs4qTBZw1VvrVyKgDOzu9mblS2cY_vSKMPtxZCzg/s320/BWOF+407+Wrap+top+detail.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054159255352616194" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Details</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern :</span><a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=76d2re2&.dnm=71c6re2.jpg&.src=ph">OOP Vogue # 2555</a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric: </span>Silk, viscose , nylon lycra matelase knit.<br />The fabric was quite expensive and was only able to swing one metre<br />Pattern is a sadly discontinued Oft used short sleeve tee pattern that works.<br />Easy Peasy construction with neckline finished by overlock , turn down and stitch as per original pattern instructions.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy58g93bEzbjYyr8iYgiEz3r3BrVR1EkxE8pB6hVuFyF6HWZKY8df0aT5tgSJLPbIqEP_5Jn0Y-NfFMCaSP6cnryDUQRlLqwLbscfkFaYCPGCMXnfInEiEL0Fnp2opvzhco2S64Q/s1600-h/V+2555+matelase+knit+top.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy58g93bEzbjYyr8iYgiEz3r3BrVR1EkxE8pB6hVuFyF6HWZKY8df0aT5tgSJLPbIqEP_5Jn0Y-NfFMCaSP6cnryDUQRlLqwLbscfkFaYCPGCMXnfInEiEL0Fnp2opvzhco2S64Q/s320/V+2555+matelase+knit+top.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5054162888894948626" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Done with knits for now , whilst I concentrate on wovens, cut and in progress.Will however update the rest of tees sharpish.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-1424378401525515342007-04-15T01:20:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:17.919-06:00FO:OOP Vogue Donna Karan #1961 reworkedWhilst the camel coat was in limbo pending the buttonholes , spent the last couple of weeks cranking out some knits.<br />With the latest batch of Vogue patterns , noticed the KVD Akker # 2971 amongst others and recognised the top line drawings were very similar to an OOP Donna Karan pattern #1961<br />As the new patterns are not available in the UK yet and needing the distraction pulled out the DK pattern and attempt to morph the changes.I intend to acquire the KVD Akker pattern anyway and will make the top whenever I get it .<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihWTerw_XQI4vRrPB1dnlKfbGH26kRBP1OU1sDfKMSb2-6OEeWiG6iGaM5lvp9FGHOzW68-bW5_HpVcXdZhC67T0cMvdeMmTSX9xdGvVQw66nP26lkPC13iFPaO1AjRJuE02cpFg/s1600-h/V2971+Akker.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihWTerw_XQI4vRrPB1dnlKfbGH26kRBP1OU1sDfKMSb2-6OEeWiG6iGaM5lvp9FGHOzW68-bW5_HpVcXdZhC67T0cMvdeMmTSX9xdGvVQw66nP26lkPC13iFPaO1AjRJuE02cpFg/s320/V2971+Akker.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053553999971329122" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLiyrgD8sMXAL2qrPeWKNLYPrI1fmfXKMaQHioClj4HQ3r8hySBtHsk-ZL-VUGPrbSBNhiFrqznLtmbeJ4WwfiMU_EFUM-V4IbRvXxKsy4zwYhtvtNcSJVKcPL59GAFBx4I6ECw/s1600-h/Vogue+Donna+Karan+1961.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLiyrgD8sMXAL2qrPeWKNLYPrI1fmfXKMaQHioClj4HQ3r8hySBtHsk-ZL-VUGPrbSBNhiFrqznLtmbeJ4WwfiMU_EFUM-V4IbRvXxKsy4zwYhtvtNcSJVKcPL59GAFBx4I6ECw/s320/Vogue+Donna+Karan+1961.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053554004266296434" border="0" /></a>Vogue Pattern # 1961<br />Copyright date 1987<br />Description:Mock front wrap top, shoulder pads, tucked front extends into single layer tie ends(wrong side may show) and back neck zipper.<br />I have had the pattern from 1997 and have made this view B four times, one still in the winter closet , the other on sabbatical( aka too small to wear currently but unwilling to part with it)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFy3M9Z_F9yxdQPFzqkQOZ9je9L2MvWIFqHFWVn-0aeIB0BUcS55p9nbtzpr2XhyGnLE-iPKEh__v7W9xqut3KyLV4-v6Aqau27-EsQz8NVUAZ9ns-pwJBVVxNBJwkRvzS5FwZAQ/s1600-h/Vogue+1961+DK+line+drawing.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFy3M9Z_F9yxdQPFzqkQOZ9je9L2MvWIFqHFWVn-0aeIB0BUcS55p9nbtzpr2XhyGnLE-iPKEh__v7W9xqut3KyLV4-v6Aqau27-EsQz8NVUAZ9ns-pwJBVVxNBJwkRvzS5FwZAQ/s320/Vogue+1961+DK+line+drawing.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053556774520202434" border="0" /></a>Muslin:<br />Used an OOP Butterick pattern # 3584 a basic close fitting crew neck tee top to cobble the changes .<br />Aligned the waistlines on the two patterns , the bust points and nape of neck postions were identical ( Same base sloper).The back was altered by eliminating height and width tolerances for the shoulder pads and the slightly lower armholes.Similar fix to front except I had to do some hocus pocus to get the right amount of swing because I wanted to approximate the KVDA top.<br />As I used the armholes from Butterick #3584 , the painless thing was to use its corresponding sleeve pattern piece.<br />Original length on # 1961 was 46.5 cm and the KVDA was approx 56 cm on the size 14.<br />Used some cotton linen knit which had been purchased for making trial knit garments(rarely)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirn0uTgMRLhhxr03UqUapu627IFuzpBTVtVBLhaPk5cIN7XS7azJwhekWEqwtRXLMupWMVuOrLcf64n06Y6oM__gSSVtj9JmEYa77cayD7QlrpgqewhEGjHZ1eo8YXTxdfJD0AUQ/s1600-h/v1961+morph+muslin1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirn0uTgMRLhhxr03UqUapu627IFuzpBTVtVBLhaPk5cIN7XS7azJwhekWEqwtRXLMupWMVuOrLcf64n06Y6oM__gSSVtj9JmEYa77cayD7QlrpgqewhEGjHZ1eo8YXTxdfJD0AUQ/s320/v1961+morph+muslin1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053554004266296450" border="0" /></a>FBA was required and the method I used is difficult to describe, may be able to pull out the pattern pieces and take pictures. The alterations required a modified L shaped slash.<br />One could create a smidge<span id="gtbmisp_57" style="border: 0pt none ; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; position: static; -moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; text-transform: none; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;font-family:serif;font-size:100%;color:red;" ></span> of room for a small FBA by moving the position of the FRONT stitching line.<br />I have to lower stitching which incidentally creates the front tuck by 2.5cm to correspond to my bust height<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf6yImIda2a2DYgXsQYLUgVGTw2fS6QdaqQT1V2YmjmdGdGWJWh3ZgR7DK48aJTtDcuvZl_oN-P0OnWfmg2GlXewdD7Kn3sEpI3BMNVcWIv8kg4DHZTYzMO245q9UiaZYvwpT8-A/s1600-h/v1961+morph+muslin+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf6yImIda2a2DYgXsQYLUgVGTw2fS6QdaqQT1V2YmjmdGdGWJWh3ZgR7DK48aJTtDcuvZl_oN-P0OnWfmg2GlXewdD7Kn3sEpI3BMNVcWIv8kg4DHZTYzMO245q9UiaZYvwpT8-A/s320/v1961+morph+muslin+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053554008561263762" border="0" /></a>Final Garment:<br />Dusky lilac ( the camera and monitor not true colour) microfiber knit.<br />Crappy neckline, stretched out before i stitched the wretched thing.<br />This version is probably too long , as it creates pooling of fabric in the high hip area .See below for explanation.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXx85T1s7ABlO6WpDzmuCguKGgTWa_YugXDtLxb7eeVHJsTTPHHkHnjtL12drm1GFojvoINWuxjZgq55-CUl0LBaP2zr9ancMceh9tc3SkRQqDrV5-Vmde__iLFshgbOy4qy_Dw/s1600-h/V1961+lilac+top+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXx85T1s7ABlO6WpDzmuCguKGgTWa_YugXDtLxb7eeVHJsTTPHHkHnjtL12drm1GFojvoINWuxjZgq55-CUl0LBaP2zr9ancMceh9tc3SkRQqDrV5-Vmde__iLFshgbOy4qy_Dw/s320/V1961+lilac+top+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053554008561263778" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Observations:</span><br />If the KVDA top is anything like the morph.<br />The tie ends may need to be made had needed to extend the ties on the #1961 and I have a relatively small waist for size.<br />Watch out for dog eared tie ends( I should know)<br />The very scoop / boat neckline may not<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span></span>crew neckline probably balances the elements the best.<br />Striped fabric , if in the genre of the prison suit ( #1736 bustle back jacket or #2056 origami top) would be stunning.<br />The finished length on the morph ( same as VKD Akker) is too long for a sleek <span id="gtbmisp_65" style="border: 0pt none ; margin: 0pt; padding: 0pt; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: bold; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; position: static; -moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial; text-align: left; text-indent: 0pt; text-transform: none; text-decoration: underline; cursor: pointer;font-family:serif;font-size:100%;color:red;" ></span>feel the top works best if length just skims past the waist as longer creates wads of fabric and bulk in the high hip area.<br />On my<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span></span> tops I made them 49cm ( 19 inches) just so they sat just below my waistline.<br />I will update to blog any observations once I have the # 2971 in my hot little hands<br /><br />***********************************************************************<br />Overview of the knits made in the last couple of weeks.<br />Will put up details in the next couple of days.<br />Today the weather feels more like Lagos or Laos than London ,off to enjoy the unseasonal warm weather<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiME4sMCxMhxfAGtyWZI5w0dEPbzuJwcJsdbodEaVhasRtmCFcoFtE_8R8xTmmaQmgXmWVgjvogqj0urf8ur_wOhuEpF-FZPFiX4fD42iI3sNPdGt6E3jcGonzUO-89qqMdFPDT9Q/s1600-h/SS+2007+knits.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiME4sMCxMhxfAGtyWZI5w0dEPbzuJwcJsdbodEaVhasRtmCFcoFtE_8R8xTmmaQmgXmWVgjvogqj0urf8ur_wOhuEpF-FZPFiX4fD42iI3sNPdGt6E3jcGonzUO-89qqMdFPDT9Q/s320/SS+2007+knits.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053555894051906738" border="0" /></a>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-11165790992792905162007-04-11T16:17:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:18.736-06:00FO:Burda WOF Coat 9/2005 #102<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRapRtTqtY2qIdl8VYk5bl5kZmCCQUnKAdzaYbrxCnSS3a6kURD_HdsPTtaZ8-WTZhyOjQ9Dkkd8IBlaDa7ECX0zsQVjGt3VrUg51UJc5tU-LuAyxsTNKvfI3ALN9hEQK0aZpvXg/s1600-h/BWOF+Coat+905+main.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRapRtTqtY2qIdl8VYk5bl5kZmCCQUnKAdzaYbrxCnSS3a6kURD_HdsPTtaZ8-WTZhyOjQ9Dkkd8IBlaDa7ECX0zsQVjGt3VrUg51UJc5tU-LuAyxsTNKvfI3ALN9hEQK0aZpvXg/s320/BWOF+Coat+905+main.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052299409959396354" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Details</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span> Burda WOF September 2005 # 102<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span>"British Plaid " Wool coating<br />Lining: Rayon/Cotton heavy satin<br />Buttons: Horn<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztMir6XdywDmm32a2L6_vos8RI_qcczw3jCxW9Jw8VxQsmwbHkY18fsKBwheahV28Mb5SvuQK3D8tSJwYmVkHpMTbXcJTkorZGo2xXGxk3-C5Sv3ifX0Vyux0AhsFMab-EgUm-g/s1600-h/BWOF+905+Coat+pattern+a.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztMir6XdywDmm32a2L6_vos8RI_qcczw3jCxW9Jw8VxQsmwbHkY18fsKBwheahV28Mb5SvuQK3D8tSJwYmVkHpMTbXcJTkorZGo2xXGxk3-C5Sv3ifX0Vyux0AhsFMab-EgUm-g/s320/BWOF+905+Coat+pattern+a.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052300234593117234" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern Bio:</span>Soft A-line figure flattering seams , menswear tabs, buttonhole pockets with flaps , wide notched collar and two rows of horn buttons.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarlk21U_jCc5mG7dqbeh0yoh8IgKvzTFSNGlsCO_wT5iB9Qg5zf9OjaImGm0Uyy89-bKvc8L_yYjbC0vMWpOAGHH2jS2767BYinJ5peko-B5cv7RjKqj54_pol0KpSev1nvM6Hg/s1600-h/BWOF+Coat+905+muslin+fitting.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarlk21U_jCc5mG7dqbeh0yoh8IgKvzTFSNGlsCO_wT5iB9Qg5zf9OjaImGm0Uyy89-bKvc8L_yYjbC0vMWpOAGHH2jS2767BYinJ5peko-B5cv7RjKqj54_pol0KpSev1nvM6Hg/s320/BWOF+Coat+905+muslin+fitting.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052299414254363682" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mods/Alterations.</span><br />Coat has multiple front seams which would make fudging a bit of width easy need width and depth and double breasted coats should normally be a no no.<br />Made a full sized test garment in a bogus heavy weight silk tweed.<br />Fitted the test garment over a complete suit ensemble.Much easier to check fit and ease with resorting to optimistic pattern hacking.<br />The coat was boxy but I needed some extra room in the hip area.Kept the silhouette pretty much the same as over fitting would have resulted in a matronly look.<br />Omitted the flap pockets , too much going on in the mid section, and used the inseam option on view #101<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Construction Tips</span><br />Soft tailoring using satin weave( coat fusible) as the base interfacing, modified from the Burda WOF layout.<br />Straight and off grain tapes used on front edge and to crack at the lapel roll line.<br />Back interfacing was a cotton muslin ( woven.<br />Armhole reinforcement tape applied<br />Sleeve wraps and chest plastron ala TFox method.<br />The interfacings , tapes and tailoring video/ DVD available from <a href="http://englishcouture.co.uk/">English Couture company</a>.(NAVY)<br />Bias hair canvas used for hem interfacing.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQp2-Qo5RiLzXcDPNDD0YC1f6JnlqyuQJJq1_9dMeBxG-F5ooK0vaG_sU4lO1zPomC7S0CUqQ5DX9gZcoODjPo2KDBO5kZsF7PhxOH61BO1vwI-J6gyYniAudukYzqVyu2Chs9ZQ/s1600-h/BWOF+905+Coat+line+drawing.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQp2-Qo5RiLzXcDPNDD0YC1f6JnlqyuQJJq1_9dMeBxG-F5ooK0vaG_sU4lO1zPomC7S0CUqQ5DX9gZcoODjPo2KDBO5kZsF7PhxOH61BO1vwI-J6gyYniAudukYzqVyu2Chs9ZQ/s320/BWOF+905+Coat+line+drawing.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052300238888084546" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Buttonholes:</span> What a kerfuffle.Bound buttonholes were not working, better to use snaps than ruin some uber expensive cloth.After a gazillion trials settled for corded buttonholes.<br />Used Clover silk thread with Gutermann top stitching thread as the cord filler .Used A46 buttonhole style , designed for heavy weight fabrics on the Viking-Husqvarna Orchidea .This is a nifty buttonhole design , without pilling on too much thread in the bars.<br />Due to a lot of she handling and over pressing( over processing) I have sent the coat to a specialist dry cleaner to revitalise and give a final press.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZcd29B6xLgVb4svxOE-X1ZLoTCQJhgC_wFL98DrCQuF5Ng3vEDInaz6RnHVgH68le8WhJaCjQsN1k8NjNeANIRCvCr91lW9RWgolIa52jiX8U8bUwkvzqWYcfM4zEkWGiCETVfg/s1600-h/BWOF+Coat+905+side+view.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZcd29B6xLgVb4svxOE-X1ZLoTCQJhgC_wFL98DrCQuF5Ng3vEDInaz6RnHVgH68le8WhJaCjQsN1k8NjNeANIRCvCr91lW9RWgolIa52jiX8U8bUwkvzqWYcfM4zEkWGiCETVfg/s320/BWOF+Coat+905+side+view.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052299414254363666" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMy3Eqdceblf49zhRllZhcDvLONAuKaGy073vWa-SfuvdAIWvZSTHmuzNmrR5eu88ItCGhKiZPiFpRkMOl4XppFbMNfnfD2fxhZMpGyfsZa5ovE7GcK8yoOs6GnKzkCdMMizYy3A/s1600-h/BWOF+Coat+905+collar+closeup.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMy3Eqdceblf49zhRllZhcDvLONAuKaGy073vWa-SfuvdAIWvZSTHmuzNmrR5eu88ItCGhKiZPiFpRkMOl4XppFbMNfnfD2fxhZMpGyfsZa5ovE7GcK8yoOs6GnKzkCdMMizYy3A/s320/BWOF+Coat+905+collar+closeup.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052300238888084562" border="0" /></a><br />I am not likely to run Max Mara or any other designers out of town any time soon am so done with coats for now.<br />Back to cranking out simple tee tops.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-89663761914463659262007-04-04T17:34:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:19.842-06:00FO: Burda WOF 3/2004 Jacket<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKurCJTw2gzFs4DFZrRascWGs4fYIMNGnu05D5eF74KOjcX0Ht5IJbEwf8ScZQhErBg1NqpKG9YX8qAoQAg2AxOgsqJKwMjXhiZyl1g9OiS5Qu1O9xzQkNzRgdUy2AUQ0GYM9vOw/s1600-h/BWOF+304+Jacket+a.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKurCJTw2gzFs4DFZrRascWGs4fYIMNGnu05D5eF74KOjcX0Ht5IJbEwf8ScZQhErBg1NqpKG9YX8qAoQAg2AxOgsqJKwMjXhiZyl1g9OiS5Qu1O9xzQkNzRgdUy2AUQ0GYM9vOw/s320/BWOF+304+Jacket+a.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049729924575311762" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2QFcUmDOAuZsZcUD3BO7DHUSMlnHwRgDxj-Lstmswto4-UJ2rHCnsb5TvqwUrZaUIyiW8sA3lwihEQC5tDSUEMT2K-oBPkxc2voIzCkHpWz2PeLLuqIcdYTEa9rG6Gb3HlgyHw/s1600-h/3040102PatternPhotoMain_Big.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2QFcUmDOAuZsZcUD3BO7DHUSMlnHwRgDxj-Lstmswto4-UJ2rHCnsb5TvqwUrZaUIyiW8sA3lwihEQC5tDSUEMT2K-oBPkxc2voIzCkHpWz2PeLLuqIcdYTEa9rG6Gb3HlgyHw/s320/3040102PatternPhotoMain_Big.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049729928870279074" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span> Burda WOF 3/2004 Style # 101<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span> Garigue Wool, Cotton, Rayon Tweed<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lining:</span> White Silk Satin<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Shell:</span> Black Rayon Lycra <a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=/76d2re2&.dnm=71c6re2.jpg&.src=ph">Vogue # 2555 OOP</a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Skirt:</span> Black HBoss Wool twill <a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=/76d2re2&.dnm=d0b6re2.jpg&.src=ph">Butterick # 4602 OOP</a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj7VH4CCoiVZuOwk8yo9pkl5LIMwNfjKWbdyehm9VUC1SAqf-KYsRSB8emiizDPxM_2u7C5DnG-gi48kEbqtc8TLUpXZOqX_e60BxZ6tED8juNhRx564rsiBV7vwqYeMCZe6c6Ng/s1600-h/BWOF+304+Jacket+back.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj7VH4CCoiVZuOwk8yo9pkl5LIMwNfjKWbdyehm9VUC1SAqf-KYsRSB8emiizDPxM_2u7C5DnG-gi48kEbqtc8TLUpXZOqX_e60BxZ6tED8juNhRx564rsiBV7vwqYeMCZe6c6Ng/s320/BWOF+304+Jacket+back.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049729941755181010" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mods/Construction Details:</span><br />Straightforward project.The only things worthy of mention are related to the fabric's quirky characteristics.<br />The jacket fabric is a very loosely woven one consisting of white n black wool roving woven onto a mesh consisting of white cotton cords and thinner rayon cotton threads.Made for a very unstable loosey goosey hand<br /><br />Entire jacket underlined with Light Silky touch couture interfacing( described as the closest thing to fusible organza)<br />Weft insertion interfacing then applied to specific areas.Armhole reinforcement tape used , sleeve wrap and shoulder pads .<br />Front foldline which is the "grown on" variety was stabilised with selvedge strips of silk organza.The neck line also stabilised using bias strips of same organza.<br />Prick stitches used to hold the facings in place<br />Two shades of silk threads were used the one for jacket internal construction was a couple of shades off ( <a href="http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/susirat/detail?.dir=53a3re2&.dnm=cd19re2.jpg&.src=ph">two shades off</a>), this was done as pulling of preumed stray white threads may have resulted in yanking out the white rayon threads and creating huge gaps in base fabric.Same colour winter white thredas used for all the external hand work<br /><br />Pockets were hand applied using the double stitching method.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje1Z7rIxyOz62519-3COSsMaNiIeMvQ5fRZOrcPwLKk4o8upLJ3bAUDUoeg-Z75bsX9O4yTUeg-8x3j_UjTMvjCYLvD3ar_4n_k-hcyhCJegtu20I0F-AIE56fkLJmOd6iP2AE2w/s1600-h/BWOF+304+Jacket+pocket.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje1Z7rIxyOz62519-3COSsMaNiIeMvQ5fRZOrcPwLKk4o8upLJ3bAUDUoeg-Z75bsX9O4yTUeg-8x3j_UjTMvjCYLvD3ar_4n_k-hcyhCJegtu20I0F-AIE56fkLJmOd6iP2AE2w/s320/BWOF+304+Jacket+pocket.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049729937460213698" border="0" /></a><br />Closure were hammer on snaps as indicated in the Burda WOF instructions<br />Ensemble completed with plain black knit tee and a nifty princess seamed straight skirt that required only 80 cm of fabric.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKZYe8_M0gawLSJq6UR7omEp4n9gER7-rtMB3IPE7XJVfn_QV9MVg5w0d3QzrD9K1AXTdYzV-3JfyzIYa8oH2LzPu0gpqoN6JaxHOA-i5WFW6QesuLMXOsJ5HdI7u7MekzKHxdw/s1600-h/BWOF+304+Jacket+snap+closure.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKZYe8_M0gawLSJq6UR7omEp4n9gER7-rtMB3IPE7XJVfn_QV9MVg5w0d3QzrD9K1AXTdYzV-3JfyzIYa8oH2LzPu0gpqoN6JaxHOA-i5WFW6QesuLMXOsJ5HdI7u7MekzKHxdw/s320/BWOF+304+Jacket+snap+closure.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049729928870279090" border="0" /></a>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-24229271768290184742007-04-02T16:21:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:20.613-06:00Back in Time for Tea<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFpw6DiLXPB7I7Fz6XGHsEWU7dxicOA8jNuCWbhL24WWiGsYrHe6ChAz4xwurB_vNTlPd77kQowhOyDb1FyTX6wE0g_jOVjMqKyLczhyphenhyphenJ8_kUq6qckMcBHi3nKz9F0zI5Mk-ykCA/s1600-h/NEC+Show+01.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFpw6DiLXPB7I7Fz6XGHsEWU7dxicOA8jNuCWbhL24WWiGsYrHe6ChAz4xwurB_vNTlPd77kQowhOyDb1FyTX6wE0g_jOVjMqKyLczhyphenhyphenJ8_kUq6qckMcBHi3nKz9F0zI5Mk-ykCA/s320/NEC+Show+01.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5048969290241768322" border="0" /></a><br />Had a fabulous time at the Sewing for Pleasure Expo at the NEC last saturday.<br />Arrived in Birmingham pronto and made a quick dash to Giesse Scampoli at the St Andrews Retail Park.Notions, interfacings and buttons, made small talk in Italian and 50 minutes later worked my way to the NEC.<br />Loved the Knitted Garden complete with a tea party in progress.<br />Met the knitters from the Guild and Liberty Knitting Group and learnt to properly finger knit.Very cool , will be able to teach my lilnneens.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzUELQJFd4bn99yMg-tiwy-7bPoKIwSC2BZ7ijigqUYglM-zzKM8hJzQEuwMfjLXFPlWYdPDvj7xZf8CmJob97Mf6SWEDrpN_e-Paxejn02cGv2og8lIrVUwo5M1tCyu3u8N3Hw/s1600-h/NEC+Show+02.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzUELQJFd4bn99yMg-tiwy-7bPoKIwSC2BZ7ijigqUYglM-zzKM8hJzQEuwMfjLXFPlWYdPDvj7xZf8CmJob97Mf6SWEDrpN_e-Paxejn02cGv2og8lIrVUwo5M1tCyu3u8N3Hw/s320/NEC+Show+02.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5048969294536735634" border="0" /></a>This particular show is probably the best of the current UK ones for dressmaker.Well worth attending.<br />Some of the highlights were<br />Sewing Today ( Vogue , Butterick, McCall's Patterns) Workshops<br />Sewing World Magazine dressmaking forums.<br />I attended two workshops( welt pockets, all in one dress facings) lecture on fit/fabrics.<br />Pattern fitting clinic .<br />The main British sewing educators including Gill Arnold , Lorna Knight ,Janet Moville, Alison Smith, Michelle Pye.<br />Update on the Terry Fox method speed tailoring.<br />Great Fashion show .<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpE7SlFfyrdbgA3twstVfCgYieRyldO-UjgVWPAueHPCb-h4HmnJZ-AFgit3FFXQTwuF0AY9CUVORr2rqkgLGHfNpdkeJlDejJCQAAZiG9OBlJCov3ISeaKu8kw-frLvBqkIyvbA/s1600-h/NEC+Show+03.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpE7SlFfyrdbgA3twstVfCgYieRyldO-UjgVWPAueHPCb-h4HmnJZ-AFgit3FFXQTwuF0AY9CUVORr2rqkgLGHfNpdkeJlDejJCQAAZiG9OBlJCov3ISeaKu8kw-frLvBqkIyvbA/s320/NEC+Show+03.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5048969294536735650" border="0" /></a>Fabrics : loads ( none for me though) Spent time chatting with Mrs Duffy and team on the Linton Tweed stand, Geoff at M Rosenberg & son, Danny at Giesse Scampoli.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5P6XvBaSQh5TC_qsPsGvXG35Kdp0fu43y9inmQHOVVLF-3tT2iGmqQ1HRSeLc2qi_Tm9ShamIsOl0oHUzFWJ5cnysID85wmL2jQeTJbaHgMIPq9qIEElqRNfIPCdQZjuIoYC_LA/s1600-h/NEC+Show+06.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5P6XvBaSQh5TC_qsPsGvXG35Kdp0fu43y9inmQHOVVLF-3tT2iGmqQ1HRSeLc2qi_Tm9ShamIsOl0oHUzFWJ5cnysID85wmL2jQeTJbaHgMIPq9qIEElqRNfIPCdQZjuIoYC_LA/s320/NEC+Show+06.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5048969298831702962" border="0" /></a>Great yarn deals at Black Sheep , Riverside Spinning, Web of Wool .<br />Knitting Clinic by Rowan/Patons from Coats.<br />Sewing machines purring , Embellishers galore with very competitive show discounts.None for me at least on this side of the pond.<br />.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Did I make any purchase??? <span style="font-size:85%;">No big tag items</span></span><br />Nifty hoestmass, a self retaining tape measure from Germany<br />Presser feet from Husqvarna Viking Studio<br />Lingerie findings<br />Tailoring stuff( interfacing , and assortment of shaping tapes) from English Couture Stand<br />NO YARN NO YARN NO YARN<br />FABRICS ?????? *************<br />Didn't get sucked into some dodgy magazine subscription laced with useless gifts.<br />Goody bags with great notions , samples ,brochures catalogues and<br /><br />I am back to the usual , trying to play catch up with a very hectic schedule.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-47706437852705169232007-03-29T00:29:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:21.394-06:00Sewing for Pleasure 2007<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirWeDT7UpRNo3iTmtz_jAKL_LwLqYyyPw50DQuMbuACbi0sB9aXhxgEot5U5e39OwzQVKp-kALfYLmfwgZ3jztBgIOpyCqbVRtL0lJGigWQasiVzI_RV1t6Cut7eWyp4NCupre7g/s1600-h/logo_sfp.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirWeDT7UpRNo3iTmtz_jAKL_LwLqYyyPw50DQuMbuACbi0sB9aXhxgEot5U5e39OwzQVKp-kALfYLmfwgZ3jztBgIOpyCqbVRtL0lJGigWQasiVzI_RV1t6Cut7eWyp4NCupre7g/s320/logo_sfp.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5047231005307927378" border="0" /></a><br />Sewing for Pleasure Exhibition<br />The National Show for all Textile Crafts<br />29th March - 1st April 2007<br />Birmingham NEC , Hall 12<br /><a href="http://www.ichf.co.uk/sewingforpleasure/index.php">Show Details</a><br />The best of the UK Sewing /Craft Expos for dressmakers.<br />I will zipping up to Birmingham on Saturday with a quick detour to Giesse Scampoli<br />**************************************************<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Work In Progress.</span><br />I have been working on my third winter coat of the season.<br />It is great to get them done( well into Spring but who cares)<br />The pattern is Burda WOF September 2005 # 101 amended<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJbnTjCp3DjEqNjboa5aJXjHK6-2CmxX4iB9lRbYJkM95ZtGd1ky3PGDSWCE8ugrODFZFJ_deGaFKz2PyqMHeFO5xoCUDKZOXbXpyv1Sfz_V-f0D0OeYJKDSFu08KPg8Tn3XPLg/s1600-h/Burda+Camel+coat+closeup.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJbnTjCp3DjEqNjboa5aJXjHK6-2CmxX4iB9lRbYJkM95ZtGd1ky3PGDSWCE8ugrODFZFJ_deGaFKz2PyqMHeFO5xoCUDKZOXbXpyv1Sfz_V-f0D0OeYJKDSFu08KPg8Tn3XPLg/s320/Burda+Camel+coat+closeup.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5047231009602894690" border="0" /></a>The coat is actually completed, lined and just waiting for closures.<br />The original coat was done in two versions, aboucle tweed with snap closures and the camel coat above with functional buttonholes and buttons.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG0vv4W5d7LO6cOr6dTN7gbEK7fuAkQ1z1bTj8qrdp8Ge65z26MRF9J1k8CXEgSuAGxU5q5Z-qCvF326c4Fven68hsPbZNKBc5WQBKIWd1nP18cFbtVQ6psPqbwzFJ_j3wSUn3Q/s1600-h/Burda+905+pattern+alterations.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG0vv4W5d7LO6cOr6dTN7gbEK7fuAkQ1z1bTj8qrdp8Ge65z26MRF9J1k8CXEgSuAGxU5q5Z-qCvF326c4Fven68hsPbZNKBc5WQBKIWd1nP18cFbtVQ6psPqbwzFJ_j3wSUn3Q/s320/Burda+905+pattern+alterations.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5047231013897862002" border="0" /></a><br />Popular opinion may indicate bound buttonholes or nothing for coats ( Not my personal view, as I dont do dogma)<br />I have sent samples of fabric scraps to two local , very experienced sewing friends to test and make bound buttonholes , machine and hand worked ones.<br />Okay , bad results ........................................... If Joan cant get great bound buttonholes, then they wont work for me.She had even offered to do them freebie style for me.<br />I am going to let the coat stew for a week whilst I get on with other pesky sewing<br />Burda tweed jacket coming up pronto.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-15122508917843946012007-03-26T09:17:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:21.781-06:00FO: Vogue 2954 Donna Karan Shirt<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcWUISImTQRthErUy2ima22kNekYNsPui5Dqtu3xdCkk7IKThgT2x3tMOYew2H0ljOI139kFlb3JN0bV9BxaIbs7S175HvzLsnh2N3NVA4uY-mXMEzTIvpTi1gbIw-Y6N0h9risA/s1600-h/Vogue+2954+shirt+jacket.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcWUISImTQRthErUy2ima22kNekYNsPui5Dqtu3xdCkk7IKThgT2x3tMOYew2H0ljOI139kFlb3JN0bV9BxaIbs7S175HvzLsnh2N3NVA4uY-mXMEzTIvpTi1gbIw-Y6N0h9risA/s320/Vogue+2954+shirt+jacket.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046253632496170866" border="0" /></a>Project<br />Patter: Vogue 2954 Donna Karan Shirt Jacket<br />Fabric: Satin face Cotton Lycra Broadcloth<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5s44xBuU-4snTk_d6DiYrFM-r6dWNFBZInrEH28Tm_6B8o2SQ6Hgnqy1loAS7KusOJ5ToTaK9vd0dvZk5j1XzlyT7sdvZVnONafkjIqAzWY-xp10Y-YhntQcI8gI3VCgj5esX3w/s1600-h/DKaran+shirt.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5s44xBuU-4snTk_d6DiYrFM-r6dWNFBZInrEH28Tm_6B8o2SQ6Hgnqy1loAS7KusOJ5ToTaK9vd0dvZk5j1XzlyT7sdvZVnONafkjIqAzWY-xp10Y-YhntQcI8gI3VCgj5esX3w/s320/DKaran+shirt.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046253641086105506" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mods/Details.</span><br />By hocus pocus I picked out the size to make.With dropped shoulders and a presumed very loose fit , horizontal flat measurements didnt provide a lot to work with.<br />There is no finished body measurements on the pattern pieces except for the sleeve width.<br />Alterations are possible as the waistline is marked.<br />The instructions: Well with sawdust between one's ears , who knows?<br />I didnt read the instructions properly ( to my peril I add) and with imperial measurements , I messed up a few seams.<br />Purists may find the instructions for the yoke treatment a tad outdated.<br />Caution: The belt is the same size for sz 14-20 so one may need to alter.I made the belt san fringe( too lazy) cutting on the cross grain instead of bias because my fabric had lycra.<br />A fun project in the genre of vintage Issey Miyake patterns with felled seams and loads of topstitching.<br />The final garment looks heaps better on moi , even with the knockers I cant do anything about.<br />I would make agin in a heavy silk dupioni or tafetta.<br />Planning to wear with stretch linen long skirt ( dont ever wear trousers)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9y_rBaAPcVk1TgVpvji2eLW8tu7xzDBHRD_wLCF0vrgIqltVUDOVHHKDfhKxwBrO_i-ODAYbQ-b-YSaMFIZIIb60rO_MaBscJ4AuPdTw2OoaGYh3LOzyYuMxUTDsoCGJCr46-1g/s1600-h/V2954a.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9y_rBaAPcVk1TgVpvji2eLW8tu7xzDBHRD_wLCF0vrgIqltVUDOVHHKDfhKxwBrO_i-ODAYbQ-b-YSaMFIZIIb60rO_MaBscJ4AuPdTw2OoaGYh3LOzyYuMxUTDsoCGJCr46-1g/s320/V2954a.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046253636791138178" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidahqiDwZ_JzWwvNR1WF7FfSnelOtxv0JkbMf3s7SpauKE3SyTEicBFNzzKnTyv_2I8-kiVDDO1DCKLABKDexwQkVBla3bwZdi8wuWY5GvUAViuZNs36I3MeGvCzr6sX-hHM20gA/s1600-h/Vogue+2954+back.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidahqiDwZ_JzWwvNR1WF7FfSnelOtxv0JkbMf3s7SpauKE3SyTEicBFNzzKnTyv_2I8-kiVDDO1DCKLABKDexwQkVBla3bwZdi8wuWY5GvUAViuZNs36I3MeGvCzr6sX-hHM20gA/s320/Vogue+2954+back.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046253641086105490" border="0" /></a>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-42494621286752174012007-03-23T08:51:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:22.746-06:00FO:Burda WOF 9/2006 # 126 Wool Coat<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjniGukRAhKTYJUOlTrWQDscNb2khL0aeaki6AZUB7qlMnfgSm1km1M9C4Tm5S61zWcoh6Wl97Grw4mxUnaz-oDtuHniC0uOO8MKCCe6G76Zd_jd3aDWijHowfcjqPbgqpdYyonzQ/s1600-h/Burda+906+coat.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjniGukRAhKTYJUOlTrWQDscNb2khL0aeaki6AZUB7qlMnfgSm1km1M9C4Tm5S61zWcoh6Wl97Grw4mxUnaz-oDtuHniC0uOO8MKCCe6G76Zd_jd3aDWijHowfcjqPbgqpdYyonzQ/s320/Burda+906+coat.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5045135862962419554" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project Details<br /><br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern:</span>Burda WOF 9/2006 Style #126 A<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Description:</span>Knee nipping coat , fitted and tailored true to style , with flared hemline wide notched collar and revers/lapel.Giant non functional buttons and covered snap closure.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fabric:</span> Blue wool/cashmere felted boucle<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lining:</span> Twill satin<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoIvSMzpKxh_-ifAlPS_9_PDLXDxc8zwjfoc_BF1Ii7OzsYBszjYMhmTObtEpGHLBeklVkNAGj3jZ1XRRkgIVyBQzUlv7JVaIHOywnbDZR02VST_6H7woKg-4INaqlL0voX4RwQ/s1600-h/Burda+906+coat+3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoIvSMzpKxh_-ifAlPS_9_PDLXDxc8zwjfoc_BF1Ii7OzsYBszjYMhmTObtEpGHLBeklVkNAGj3jZ1XRRkgIVyBQzUlv7JVaIHOywnbDZR02VST_6H7woKg-4INaqlL0voX4RwQ/s320/Burda+906+coat+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5045134664666543890" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyWfaU_uOPlU90V9Gk_0Pe50l7-disAgfIMRbsBrU01utG7BkHjiG_xL3q2N9gh15Ds17XQkaOVeNi8TH7E51pN_JDfnZ_zXdyMY5dllvIFcTgf0yi8WkXWy_VciaXbO855hOeg/s1600-h/000001447893.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyWfaU_uOPlU90V9Gk_0Pe50l7-disAgfIMRbsBrU01utG7BkHjiG_xL3q2N9gh15Ds17XQkaOVeNi8TH7E51pN_JDfnZ_zXdyMY5dllvIFcTgf0yi8WkXWy_VciaXbO855hOeg/s320/000001447893.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5045134668961511218" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mods/Alterations:</span><br />Reasonabley easy to put together coat.Great pattern for small yardages.I used 2.5 metres to get a 104cm length coat.<br />Alterations done for figure xteristics , the coat version A was 92 cm , too short for my requirements so pattern lengthened to 104 cm.<br />Soft/Speed tailoring techniques as in the UK Terry Fox et al method.<br />I used super soft superior ( suit weight weft type fusible interfacing) The satin weave which is a heavier coat weight type didn't fuse well so parts of the front had a double layer.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDsP9qiPP5l2T5htQXhndDIwz4MzOla1V0wlO9MQPunlhg-JfPxcMSVCcTsK93N9_JUPMMyfu6mSVfv1G_p_tFwt3Zb5AMiQPVDfgKEvfxSKxIn5GARYpsi4XUlr63AqN-F_0glQ/s1600-h/Burda+906+coat+back.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDsP9qiPP5l2T5htQXhndDIwz4MzOla1V0wlO9MQPunlhg-JfPxcMSVCcTsK93N9_JUPMMyfu6mSVfv1G_p_tFwt3Zb5AMiQPVDfgKEvfxSKxIn5GARYpsi4XUlr63AqN-F_0glQ/s320/Burda+906+coat+back.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5045134673256478530" border="0" /></a>Back upper view shows the collar edge fold( last post re: turn of cloth)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCT7coIbEakjbJSM2OHz-TyVvBRipMsOp_oREKS8kdrrCrgnwAaiDZIwi_VPTP2RrcXTWSrTzBN9dlUQFx1w7RTmZI3wo1LF4zcx3TnR7FZLkCnZhDc4GKlCqr9x9c_hNo0bXfDw/s1600-h/Burda+906+facing+edge.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCT7coIbEakjbJSM2OHz-TyVvBRipMsOp_oREKS8kdrrCrgnwAaiDZIwi_VPTP2RrcXTWSrTzBN9dlUQFx1w7RTmZI3wo1LF4zcx3TnR7FZLkCnZhDc4GKlCqr9x9c_hNo0bXfDw/s320/Burda+906+facing+edge.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5045134668961511202" border="0" /></a>Coat was completely lined on the machine above picture shows the front facing/lining hem interface.This is completely finished on the sewing machine using the instructions which has been featured in Burda WOF past issues from the late 1990s.The article I currently refer to was the Pro-tip from BWOF 8/2000.There is a comparable article in Threads magazine issue # 108.The Burda article is better to grasp the concept as the illustrations are made up of line drawings depicting the exact stitching paths.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Rcn74Yy-rK8d6OejtxFhZAZvI8anYEdf_7tfRPY_-OUl1IPmTIWlWPrGG4PLxo69XETOLvN5ZAnJ088nD0DNHosk9T6EfDejRDRq12DgwKJdU6gMCUNOPekVwle341C97_kn0Q/s1600-h/types+sleeve+head.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Rcn74Yy-rK8d6OejtxFhZAZvI8anYEdf_7tfRPY_-OUl1IPmTIWlWPrGG4PLxo69XETOLvN5ZAnJ088nD0DNHosk9T6EfDejRDRq12DgwKJdU6gMCUNOPekVwle341C97_kn0Q/s320/types+sleeve+head.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5045134673256478546" border="0" /></a><br />Sleeve heads used .There are a few more varieties( will take a pic with the next coat) I used the upper precut version in this coat .<br />Buttons are non functional and yippee no pesky buttonholes to make .I didnt want to get the mgea big ones depicted in the magazine , so I ysed 27 mm size ones .<br />The snaps were covered with lining.Made them in the prescriptive method , only change is that I cut out the circles with pincking sheras to reduce fraying.<br /><a href="http://www.blackwaterpark.blogs.com/"></a><br />Great coat , one that I wll make again.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26602557.post-68881852495345337872007-03-20T03:49:00.000-06:002008-12-08T21:17:24.018-06:00Rendevous in Town, Sewing in progress<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmOzglVpLiloLvwi46RRn-ER9u4bUBjVJPSfMObCahQiPPcjjVstDrwm0xYB4QO7Cgl0Dj94hLRZk_05mQVWYw9yoxARCBwspRfSFLz8gDD9mMSHtWgYobgt7wQKJY_mfFU_YDzw/s1600-h/new+mags.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmOzglVpLiloLvwi46RRn-ER9u4bUBjVJPSfMObCahQiPPcjjVstDrwm0xYB4QO7Cgl0Dj94hLRZk_05mQVWYw9yoxARCBwspRfSFLz8gDD9mMSHtWgYobgt7wQKJY_mfFU_YDzw/s200/new+mags.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5043943524206474898" border="0" /></a>Last week <a href="http://tininaeht.blogspot.com/">Tini</a> and spouse were in London on a break , and I had the privilege of catching up with them mid week.They were absolutely charming.<br />A pit stop for caffeine , then a visit to Liberty yarn department.Despite the small snarfu we came away with purchases.Moi the princess enabler assisted Tini with her purchase of some yummy Rowan yarn and pattern book , I got a couple more mini pattern books, Bamboo Tape and one of the new RYC books.We were even able to squeeze a detour into R D Franks before they had to go.<br />Lucky me , Tini gifted the above <a href="http://www.burdamode.com/easy_fashion_-_Fr%C3%BChjahr_Sommer_2007,1270777-1474962-1474966,deDE.html">Burda Easy Fashion S/S 2007 </a>and Online knitting book.<br />Thank you very very much Tini for taking the time out for a rendezvous<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Enabler Alert</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPnt1W9yEDnK-OfpTfjiA9Wh5QeWqy6OmwqmEXNXhDffppyjz8GaV3ORzMT7i_500mYmCuYym5x0xAKVdNXsxYPdc57zlF3WtDNZA8EjGC58YuuiLpvEFIFwu0kdthOd0oCoft4A/s1600-h/draft+tools.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPnt1W9yEDnK-OfpTfjiA9Wh5QeWqy6OmwqmEXNXhDffppyjz8GaV3ORzMT7i_500mYmCuYym5x0xAKVdNXsxYPdc57zlF3WtDNZA8EjGC58YuuiLpvEFIFwu0kdthOd0oCoft4A/s200/draft+tools.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5043943524206474914" border="0" /></a>Earlier on in the same week a trip to the Westend had me in <a href="http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/FRAMES/index2.htm">RDFranks </a><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span>.The ultimate shop for fashion books, magazines and pattern drafting texts.They had the above pictured drafting tools on closeout.<br />Ivorine1/4 and1/5th scale<br />Neck and Armhole Guide copyright MRohr.<br />Each at £1.00 each.Well worth if local to London snagging them up , or find a crafting pal to help purchase<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Project: Burda WOF 9/2006 #125</span><br />I am sewing quite a bit but the lack of time and dodgy computer gizmos( no change anytime soon) means blogging is waaaaaaaaaaaaay down the pile of things to do.<br />The Burda WOF coat is done and will put up dodgy pictures sharpish.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9JyyUt9N94So_SExi15_3MfU14sB3sZnC3fSrS8gC_RAoGkIZrbQDXifYXN7aDBIhyphenhyphentTb6l5BVXjFPWKvBD9weR34OldgIPVO4qF7FoBIDYTKFyJUF7spwo83nwlG2g4o2j5nQ/s1600-h/Burda+906+in+progress.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9JyyUt9N94So_SExi15_3MfU14sB3sZnC3fSrS8gC_RAoGkIZrbQDXifYXN7aDBIhyphenhyphentTb6l5BVXjFPWKvBD9weR34OldgIPVO4qF7FoBIDYTKFyJUF7spwo83nwlG2g4o2j5nQ/s200/Burda+906+in+progress.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5043944799811761874" border="0" /></a>The fabric used: Felted wool cashmere boucle, somewhat friable .<br />No real suprises in the construction just a few things to think through because the fabric whilst light is still bulky.<br />Apart from deciding the choice of interfacings and how to deal with interfacing or not in seam allowances to try and reduce bulk , the lapel/collar edge seams usually needs drafting adjustments.l<br />One could guess the amount of tolerance needed for the top collar to completely cover the under collar aka Turn of Cloth.<br />Burda WOF in recent times dont have a separate pattern piece for the top and under collar Probably best as any pattern company draft will not work for all agrment weights<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Calculating for Turn of Cloth</span><br />I work out the amount of fabric need to add to the top collar edge to completely cover the under collar prior to cutting , and adapt the top collar and front facing lapel pattern pieces accordingly.<br />1.Cut two rectangle of fashion fabric and two pieces of the interfacings .<br />I used <a href="http://englishcouture.co.uk/English_Couture_Products/speed_tailoring.htm">supersoft superior and medium weight silky couture</a>.<br />2.Sew the interfaced pieces together.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRFl2xEOECBUqmdwCJBD4LizXaUmH-Ez4J0X2-DOUdrzIqH7zUza1eeAUnpeuQA8BASlYUpKFLaJOVBIdEVQ2J48f3p9Ua_cu-2vQA9RTejvfdkWwxZOFbFsauWC_00DBrbAf0w/s1600-h/Turn+of+cloth+1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRFl2xEOECBUqmdwCJBD4LizXaUmH-Ez4J0X2-DOUdrzIqH7zUza1eeAUnpeuQA8BASlYUpKFLaJOVBIdEVQ2J48f3p9Ua_cu-2vQA9RTejvfdkWwxZOFbFsauWC_00DBrbAf0w/s200/Turn+of+cloth+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5043944808401696514" border="0" /></a><br />3.Three point press( on each side of the seamline and then open the seam for third step)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiFD23LBh_MEody1Or3VP4iVunXV5M4BFRHYa819e5JC_qMZk4AK4Git3A73XFvDKlMydskI5xNFzkTXWK3he6DRK0d8XJWVcYZvGbFBP1t5FTTqsRkjMWrfo-u2xEzLuDIGS6PQ/s1600-h/Turn+of+cloth+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiFD23LBh_MEody1Or3VP4iVunXV5M4BFRHYa819e5JC_qMZk4AK4Git3A73XFvDKlMydskI5xNFzkTXWK3he6DRK0d8XJWVcYZvGbFBP1t5FTTqsRkjMWrfo-u2xEzLuDIGS6PQ/s200/Turn+of+cloth+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5043944804106729202" border="0" /></a>4.Bevel and grade the seam , fold and press favouring the outer garment piece.<br />5. The facing/under collar piece is now shorter and the difference in measurement here 3mm is the amount needed to amend the draft for undercollar and front facing lapel.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwwWysw0W6kUjD0-lWJC162r_il8XVZsNbOuSo7hKEtCYoNn8i06PKGMittkHa4hFhRdAHs7T4UYRp75Upp5_ljHRfIilKpvhFqpY9HtX4CiZeoCmiLqNZgbILRM8lDbc7AyumqA/s1600-h/Turn+of+cloth3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwwWysw0W6kUjD0-lWJC162r_il8XVZsNbOuSo7hKEtCYoNn8i06PKGMittkHa4hFhRdAHs7T4UYRp75Upp5_ljHRfIilKpvhFqpY9HtX4CiZeoCmiLqNZgbILRM8lDbc7AyumqA/s200/Turn+of+cloth3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5043944804106729186" border="0" /></a>Why bother? For me it save stopping whilst putting the component parts together to jugggle pinching out , taking blisters and whatnot, and works well for all weights of fabrics .Saves me five to ten minutes I reckon.Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07639758894743740285noreply@blogger.com