My Sewing and KnittAntics

Burda WOF August 2008 Cabled Sweater

2008-10-12T06:09:00.005-06:00

This may end up in the dustbin.The front and back are done, yoke almost finished.But where is the rest of the yarn to finish the sleeves?
Yarn is now discontinued and unable to locate online. YIKES !!!!!

More like a disaster in the making than WIP.Oh well at least I get practice on a new to me version of cabling without a cable needle

I did find an amazing tutorial for cabling sans cable needle.

Bravissimo

2008-10-02T12:45:00.004-06:00

If you have a rack sized DD to K cup , then you will know who or what Bravissimo is.

Just got the latest catalogue and they have extended their clothing range to include suits and coats.

They are probably one of the very few companies that offer knit tops , dresses , jackets and coats for full busted women( and not necessarily bigger or plus sized ones)

Size Range

Even if one wasnt able to buy the garments, they showcase styles that look great for us needing to do VVFBA to get clothes to fit .

Me I am going back home in a few weeks time so will be able to visit the Ealing and Covent Garden shops in person.

Like Eons ago

2008-09-17T15:26:00.004-06:00

The new Bergere de France swatch book, CD Rom and magazines arrived the long route , via London.

One of quilts I made whilst containers were on the high seas. Wont be making many more , but great dressmaking skills and tips picked up.

Blog Hiatus

2007-07-19T14:32:00.001-06:00

In the fashion of Gordon Ramsey "The F word" DONE

Relocation DONE
Crafting items :Packed,Boxed and Shipped. DONE
Me in new habitat: DONE

Blog going into hiatus: for now

New Phase of life begins.

Summer 2007 Yarn Sales

2007-06-28T10:33:00.000-06:00

Yep , not one but two gigantic Liberty of London Sale bags
The summer sales are underway.
Liberty kicked off today with yummilicious offerings
Jaeger is going to be phased out , and all the yarns are going or gone.That is a shame because they do have the some of the best, classic yarns around.
Glee all round because they were deeply discounted

Yarns in the Sale
Jaeger Aqua :all shades
Jaeger Sienna : all shades
Jaeger Extra Fine Merino DK
Rowan Kid Silk Night :red
Rowan Kid Silk Haze : mustardy yellow
Rowan Cotton Rope
Rowan Kid Classic
Rowan Holiday or Glimmer: the dishrag looking one
Felted Tweed : some stray packs
The Biggies: sorry I didnt even check
? Very little Rowan Calmer perhaps already snagged

Pattern books from Jaeger/Rowan to match the yarns
The prices are really low, they wont be matched even by the online Rowan seller that seat on mountains of discontinued yarns and then have to shift years later.

John Lewis Paternership sales start on Saturday and they will have in addition to Rowan/Jaeger yarns from Debbie Bliss, LHarding , Patons, Sirdar and Noro

Phildar Soldes
Yep they have started their summer sales online.Guess the best of the sale stock is gone.Well worth a look as they ship worldwide, so buying at 50% discount wont break the bank

I wont be flashing the contents of the bags , since the majority aint mine.
Orders to be mailed out or passed on at rendezvous next week.
It pays to play nice on the internet( none of the "who is she/he that is so pervasive) then you might get some kind knitter helping to spread the yarnie/crafty love.

BE NICE IT PAYS
Presenting my new to me knitting machine

SIT Singer Memo 11/Superba S47/White 1502
French 5mm double bed knitting machine
Three weeks before departure, and hopes of getting the machine to ship out fast fading.I decided to put in a request online for a machine lurking in some attic.Three hours later, I got a postive response.Machine in nearly new condition (despite the fact it was purchased about two decades ago) was mine if I wanted .

Cost was exactly what the crafter had paid for it only a few weeks ago local to her. When I snet payment , the cratfer recognised my name.We had met online in 1998 whilst hunting for OOP Issey Miyake patterns.Suspect I hadnt behaved ghastly or else she might have retracted the offer LOL. Not the reason to aware ( the opposite of bolshie, crappy blah blah blah) that goes on the in cyberspace but this experience is a definite bonus
The machine arrived with a gazillion extras like transfer carriages ,bags of tools, packs of needles and a very much sought after colour changer complete with instructions.

Phildar/ Bergere de France is why I got into machine knitting. Many of their handknitting patterns have instructions /charts or adaptation for machine knitting .The 5mm KM does knit up to light DK like Pure Laine, Oxygene, Canasta etc.It makes using the original yarns even more appropriate.
Suspect I have me the perfect knitting elfin to churn out double time even more French sweaters.

Remember chaps, IT DOES PAY TO BE NICE

Translating French Knitting Patterns

2007-06-18T23:22:00.000-06:00

Small post regarding French knitting patterns.There are some exceptional French knitting publicaions.Phildar, Bergere de France, Anny Blatt , Bouton D,or, Fait Main , Tricot Ideal, and offerings from Marie Claire Idee.
What these publications offer for me is the great designs, so not old granny looking sweaters, the
excellent schematics, le mathematique or the modular way that increases/ decreases are written.Stitch glossary at beginning of pattern and the use of charts

French patterns dont translate well into English,( they dont do the three rows before the 34 th row after the second to last decrease nonsense) that is rife with certain English knitting patterns.

Resources
Phildar Le Conseil Tricot
Excellent resource on the basics, some stitch patterns, their methods for increases/ decreases/ finishing knits with graphics that are easy to understand

Phildar Knitting Glossary
Searchable glossary

Bergere de France Downloadable Glossaire
A downloadable pdf glossarie.
Trucs and Astuces
Their knitting hints and tricks guide online

Chez Plum article: Knitting from French
Excellent overview with further links and a very good explanation on the mathematique.
The formulae for dealing with shaping( increases, decreases and cast offs)
Similar to the Japanese knitting notations.

Best option would be to learn the notations, and abbrevations for knitting tasks. And knit directly from French .A dictionary would perhaps only be necessary for finishing instructions, short rows etc and completing specific tasks

Me , I am off to continue packing.

BdF Update and Fabric Dive Enabler Alert

2007-06-17T06:20:00.000-06:00

Clearly on day release from the Zoo.Postings on blog, whatever next.I had planned a "sweatshop" weekend sewing like a loonie , but have done zilch.Oh well.

Local Enabler Alert for Locals and Londoners
The fabric dive, Material World have just cleared out stock from "The famous British Plaid company "factory ends.

The " Plaid" lining
Plaid bias binding in cotton and silk .
Buttons with crests, other button assortments.
Fantastic selection of Italian wools , linens , and the trench cotton used for their summer pants , skirts and trench dresses.
Gutermann silk buttonhole on 10m and 50m spools.Extremely rare on the retail market.
As ever NAVY.....................just a customer

Bergere De France Update
The post including details on their Cd generated some blog traffic.
Article # for them are
2006/2007 ; #119.771
2005/2006: #691.331
2004/2005: #655.491
2003/2004: still available just not listed on the website.Contact me for details

As I have just been astonished by the generosity of an online knitter in locating a sought after Knitting Machine( more when it arrives next week) I will be ordering bits from with BdF this week .
Done , just waiting for postie with my colieco

Easy Unlined Jacket? That,s telling porkies

2007-06-17T05:49:00.000-06:00

If one is told that making an unlined jacket is easy,Abi says that,s porkies ( cockney slang for lies.Porkie pies ?get it)
I line most of my garments, even line/cotton summer togs.I had just finished a duo , skirt and jacket combo in a silk/linen/tencel fabric.
Yummy colour , feel and drape but not suited for anything structured.
Unlined jacket.Yikes , with the overlocked seam edges exposed.
No I dont think so. Not very pretty

The alternative was to draft a half back lining , front part lining by extending the front facing to match at side seam similar to armhole chest piece or plastron.
Description and details for drafting the lining pieces can be found in Singer Tailoring or Taunton Press Easy guide to lining( I dont advocate blatant copyright violations)
Fusible knit interfacing cut to match the lining pieces, shaving away 2 cmm at outer edges, with pinking shears to soften /reduce strike through.

HongKong finish on every exposed seam edge tadded a few hours to project.Lucky I had Ambiance lining bias roll( from Paul Costeloe factory sale)
Perhaps twice or thrice as long as it would have taken to sew a full lining.

MORALE EASY IS NOT ALWAYS FASTER

FO:Burda WOF June 2007 # 110 Top

2007-06-15T13:38:00.000-06:00

Project:Another Knit Top
Pattern:Burda WOF June 2007 #110
Fabric:Italian Viscose Lycra Knit

Details/Pattern Specs
An interesting little project.Features front raglan and back set in sleeves.
There is no side seam , the back pattern piece swings forwards and extends into the front lower section.
The front neckline has a deep but narrow scoop.Raised by 5mm, and needed to hack off about 4 cm from the binding.
Note that binding length may be wrong.States 80cm for all the sizes

Flawless seam match eh? No way.May offer design possibilties with narrower stripes.Modifications.
Alteration for my figure xteristics.The seaming makes it easy to adjust for a full bust using the princess seam method.
Length extended by 6cm.
Need to consider size to make, offers less room for waist dimension alterations.
Uses only 1.10 mteres.Have pulled out fabrics for a few more renditions.
Gets an A+

Bergere de France Knitting Patterns

2007-06-10T02:07:00.000-06:00

Whilst looking for new knitting projects to pack for transit , I pulled out and printed the above pattern from 2002/2003 season off the CD.
Bergere de France Review
Bergere de France is perhaps the other big knitting patterns/yarn company from France( Phildar the other)
The new catalogue and swatch books are now available for 2007/2008 season.
French language patterns
1.Excellent knitting patterns for whole family in the main pattern book.
2.Series of smaller focused pattern books throughout the year.
3.Tricotheque: Great free knitting patterns to download and print.
4.Swatch Book: They have a swatch book priced 5.00 euro , usually given free to EU customers that contain all the current yarns and actual yarn snips
5. Many of the patterns have instruction/tensions for machine knitting.The books have the equivalent KM tensions for the 4.5mm as well as the 5mm knitting machines.
6.Ready to wear collection.
7. Good selection of knitting books( in French) , accessories and bricolage.
Please note: I have only used the French knitting patterns.They have translated some of the patterns to English , I have no experience or desire to try out.

Bergere de France CD
They produce an annual CD containing the current patterns and extra bonus patterns from previous season inedits, free patterns , spring/ summer special ,bebe, layette edtions.These would have been sold for 2.5-4.50 euros each,that equals an extra 150 or so modeles on each CD.
Okay one miss out of the extra four or so glossy magazines, but at 3.90 euros , a bargain still.
The CD is suitable for both PC and MAC annd interactive.Can be used in conjunction with the internet and website.
They have issued four CDs form 2003/2004 to date , the fifth will be the new 2007/2008 edition.The CDs are still available on the website if you know how to search.

Bergeroscope
Great facility (in the current ) and I suspect subsequent ones
Full list of all the yarns they have ever made.Complete yarn listings with tension, metrage, compostion, suitablity for MK, washing instructions and cross reference with current and discontinued yarns to make substitutions.
That is a yarn company that knows how to do business.
Great mail order service , the postage to United Kingdom and presumably the rest of Europe is very minimal, about a third of what I pay from the Phildar website.

For the North Americas, I have no personal experience but the swatch books/pattern books and yarns are available out of Canada from Club Direct Laine

FO:Burda WOF 5/07 # 147 Moss Stitch Pullover

2007-06-03T03:23:00.000-06:00

Pattern
Burda WOF May 2007 # 147
Description
Short sleeve pullover( jumper to me) with fine rice/moss stitch and clever contrast of short sleeves and turtleneck collar

Original Yarn:
Samoa Mouline 50% Cotton 50% Acrylic
Perhaps the best of the aran weight cotton acrylic blends
Suitable subs include Rowan ASC, Phildar Aviso, Katia , Lion Brand Cotton Ease
Yarn Used:
Gedifra Sport 100% Superwash wool in Grey
Straight forward pattern instructions.Has many of the details of continental knitting ( Europe) patterns .

Charts with written descriptions of symbols.
Use of edge stitches for better finish.
Shaping explicitly spelt out ( Rowan , Rowan oh Rowan LOL)
Full fashioned decreases giving a RTW look .
Use of increasing needle sizes to shape the collar.

The fit is uber snug.Matched the tension swatch and the finished measurements.Gives the illusion of a vintage knit.
I needed to shortrow about 6cm for FBA ( fun keeping the small/ large cables/ moss stitch patterns correct)
Sleeves were made longer by about 4cm
Used 4mm and 4.5mm DPNs for the collar( unable to locate smaller circular needles)

Great little top.I opted for wool as heavier close fit knits dont quite go with summer.
Burda WOF had almost always featured knitting patterns , as far as my collection goes from about 1981 The number had dwindled in the last few years, but with Verena in hiatus , perhaps more???
Cant wait fot the June 2007 issue which promises another superb selection of hand knits

Vogue DKNY 2951 suit et al

2007-05-23T02:36:00.000-06:00

Patterns
Jacket: Vogue DKNY # 2951
Plain skirt: Butterick 3637 OOP
Knit Top:Simplicity 4076 View E

Fabrics
Jacket:Tobacco Solbiati Linen
Print skirt: Ungaro Cotton Sateen with lycra
Knit Top: Spun Viscose Knit( san lycra)

Modification/Details
Semi fitted lined jacket with patch pockets, princess seams in back, topstitched design trim and buttoned front.
Main distinguishing details are the sleeves.
Three piece combination sleeve , that is set in front and raglan back.
Not unusual ,I have made severaljackets with como sleeves from Donna Karan , recently Bill Blass.There is a brown longer length coat in January 2007 Burda WOF.
The combo can raglan front or back.
Note***** The sleeves are only 7/8th ,just about obvious on the pattern envelope but not mentioned/ no measurements

Tulip style skirt.Omitted the pockets. didnt have enough for fabric and I wouldnt wear with extrahip widening features.The yoke lining was done in the plain linen and edges finished with bias strips on Ambiance lining

Smart move to make a plain( non faddy) skirt.
Plain A-line fully lined skirt.OOP Butterick 3637
Finally a quick knit top.
Simplicity 4076 View E in spun viscose knit.Not very stretchy so needed to size up.
Me , I prefer Butterick 3391 OOP View E , with a slightly pulled effect over the gathered area and better suited for suits

Patrones # 241 Dolce & Gabbana Coat

2007-05-20T02:25:00.000-06:00

Project: Patrones 241 #49 Abrigo Dolce & Gabbana

Fabric: Linen Tweed and Blue Denim
Lining: Taupe/Blue Twill lining
Notions: Jeans Snap on Buttons, Polyester Sew All and Generic Topstitching Threads
The linen tweed was a cross between burlap and hopsacking .Underlined the entire coat with fusible tricot knit interfacing as underlining.Needed to use denim needles for construction
Pattern Details
The coat pattern style lines made up of shoulder princess seams with denim front and sleeve bands.Nehru style collar.The edges on front and sleeves denim pieces and fabric collar were fringed.The draft of the Patrones pattern/s ( perhaps in general ) require some work.
Style led variations( the usual nonsense about following designer lines as opposed to recreate the pattern based on in house standard sloper) equals sizing and fit all over the place.
Omit a muslin at one,s peril???

Modifications:

1.Traced and altered the Patrones pattern pieces , made a quick muslin and realised it was going to require some hard work making it work,The landmark measurements didnt match their published ones

2.Decided to graft the essential style lines onto Vogue 7978 coat pattern.Used the View E
Cannibalised the front and sleeve pattern pieces, fudged the armscye.

3.The edges on the denim pieces left raw.Rust topstitching threads( From a FabricDive in Toronto) was used and they were straddled 5mm from edge with fine zigzag stitches.

4.Used unfringed self fabric collar

5.Pocket flaps lined with denim as per Patrones instructions , but I omitted the top upper pockets

6.I needed to rewrite the order of sewing to suit my changes and the method for lining the coat, which was completed on the machine.

Patrones Instructions
They are in Spanish, and even with translation they are terse and dont give too many details.
Nothing to whinge about.One takes these things as they are.
Close up view front

View of the distressed raw edges( which will drive me nuts as they fray?)

Inside view showing the lining

Nice coat which will make a great weekend topper.Perhaps passe but I have never cared about being in fashion.
Wont be making again but this particular Patrones # 241 is one of the best in my collection.
I have made half a dozen garments from it , and have several more on the wish list.
The matching skirt I have also made to go with another suit. Coming soon

Soon Come, Soon Come, ? Soon Come

2007-05-14T09:20:00.000-06:00

Soon Come , pidgin way of saying "I'll right back in a jiffy"
Sewing , Knitting , Looking at and Gleaning details from RTW, and the rest of life , just not in the mood to blog.

Line drawing above , a couple of the dozen or so garments I have finished in the past four weeks.Just need to find the will and time to put up pictures

Bad news from Burda Publishing.Verena and Anna and its special publications have been axed.
German link to Burda website forum with the editorial team fielding questions
Carry on whingeing about Burda WOF .....................................................

Great ( new to me) Sew-4-Fun blog with an excellent primer on Topstitching.Bonus is that the lady sews on the same machine brand I use.
Ciao

More Knit Tops, and Work progress

2007-04-22T15:26:00.000-06:00

No crafting at all in the last few days.I have managed however to turn the above pile into one lined jacket , and two skirts.Have a couple of coordinating prints pulled out that I may quickly rustle up before changing colour scheme, re-prep overlocker and sewing machines.
I am itching to get cracking on my blue/blue tone pile ASAP.

New magazines to keep me on focus, The Fiesta edition of Patrones mid week , then Vogue Knitting magazine S/S 07, Sew Stylish , and Rowan Kasbah Collection.

Project Details
Pattern: Self drafted skirt
Fabric: Matte Viscose Jersey, Lined with skintone tricot
Just took a couple of measurements,cut into the fabrics directly after charting the outlines ,used a contour elastic treatment.

"Cut and Sew" is a term probably familiar to tailors/ dressmakers from African & Asia.
This entails pattern drafting directly onto fabric with chalk and tapemeasure or onto brown paper for more complex designs.It involves understanding and application of drafting rules , and takes a few years to master.They can recreate just about any designs just from looking at magazine pictures
Unfortunately I didnt develop the skills/expertise and therefore a minion to paper patterns

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 4020 View C
Fabric: Viscose Lycra knit.
Okay top, easy enough to make , guess it will be great to peek through a boring severe suit.
The shoulder tuck/pleats are a bit weird even on the pattern envelope and I will not advise pivoting and transfer of side darts there
I may make a plain version?My plain knits tend to be the more expensive from my sources and therefore get used for really basic designs.

FO: Vogue # 1332 Geoffrey Beene Jacket

2007-04-20T00:21:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Pattern:Vogue # 1332 Geoffrey Beene OOP
Fabrics: Novelty Linen, Black Linen as contrast
Lining: Mill end logo'ed black Ambiance
Mods/Specifications:
Very OOP copyright date 1994
Loose fitting lined below hip jacket has back neckband extending slightly to front, shoulder pads, right welt , pocket, side slits , shaped front hemline, back seam detail and long sleeves.
Great pattern with only three major pattern pieces

FBA done by making an L slash , pivot and slide.The dart created needed to be transferred and since there is no side seam , the dart ended up in the front lower armhole area.

Made a major major major blopper .Despite a few practice welts, annotated pattern instructions, I managed to sew two instead of the single welt pocket.YIKES.
I guess that is a small price for sewing in the middle of the night.
I usually get a substantial portion of my sewing done in the wee hours when on call, as attending from home.Once up and awake , best way to cope with the insomnia and waiting around.
Usually though I try not to get into major or fiddly construction parts like collars, welts , etc.

Collar/Jacket Front Insert.
Side Jacket view , no side seams.
There's loads of wobbly topstitching( bad bad sewer eh) .The nature of the base fabric meant that any of the other colours( grey, white, winter white ) just didnt work .Guess I should have also used different distances between the edge and topstitching.
BACK TO NODDY SEWING SCHOOL
Me . I am not an overthinking overprocessing purist, and can live with minor or even major sewing faux pas. Guess the sewing and messing things up is the best way for me to improve my skills Better luck or choices next time.
However this jacket has already been worn this week and I am loving it.

I would love to make it again in a plain winter weight fabric/ colour .But I have a dozen or so other Geoffrey Beenes OOP and scazillion other Vogue designer patterns on the wishlist.

FO SS 2007 Knits Part 1

2007-04-16T16:28:00.000-06:00

Pattern: Burda WOF December 2006 #118
Fabric: Viscose lycra knit
Used Burda WOF May 2006 #127 ( last two in picture collage) to extend the wrap overlay, extending to close to side seam.
Tank peeking is Burda WOF January #123, sleeveless tank with bust darts.Armholes and neckline finished with cream/blue picot elastic
Project Details
Pattern: Burda WOF April 2007 #107 ( first picture third row)
Fabric: Cotton lycra Knit
Edging: Cream frilled elastic, ruffle dipped pink.
Omitted the picot trim on the sleeve and body hems

Project Details
Pattern :OOP Vogue # 2555
Fabric: Silk, viscose , nylon lycra matelase knit.
The fabric was quite expensive and was only able to swing one metre
Pattern is a sadly discontinued Oft used short sleeve tee pattern that works.
Easy Peasy construction with neckline finished by overlock , turn down and stitch as per original pattern instructions.

Done with knits for now , whilst I concentrate on wovens, cut and in progress.Will however update the rest of tees sharpish.

FO:OOP Vogue Donna Karan #1961 reworked

2007-04-15T01:20:00.000-06:00

Whilst the camel coat was in limbo pending the buttonholes , spent the last couple of weeks cranking out some knits.
With the latest batch of Vogue patterns , noticed the KVD Akker # 2971 amongst others and recognised the top line drawings were very similar to an OOP Donna Karan pattern #1961
As the new patterns are not available in the UK yet and needing the distraction pulled out the DK pattern and attempt to morph the changes.I intend to acquire the KVD Akker pattern anyway and will make the top whenever I get it .

Vogue Pattern # 1961
Copyright date 1987
Description:Mock front wrap top, shoulder pads, tucked front extends into single layer tie ends(wrong side may show) and back neck zipper.
I have had the pattern from 1997 and have made this view B four times, one still in the winter closet , the other on sabbatical( aka too small to wear currently but unwilling to part with it)
Muslin:
Used an OOP Butterick pattern # 3584 a basic close fitting crew neck tee top to cobble the changes .
Aligned the waistlines on the two patterns , the bust points and nape of neck postions were identical ( Same base sloper).The back was altered by eliminating height and width tolerances for the shoulder pads and the slightly lower armholes.Similar fix to front except I had to do some hocus pocus to get the right amount of swing because I wanted to approximate the KVDA top.
As I used the armholes from Butterick #3584 , the painless thing was to use its corresponding sleeve pattern piece.
Original length on # 1961 was 46.5 cm and the KVDA was approx 56 cm on the size 14.
Used some cotton linen knit which had been purchased for making trial knit garments(rarely)
FBA was required and the method I used is difficult to describe, may be able to pull out the pattern pieces and take pictures. The alterations required a modified L shaped slash.
One could create a smidge of room for a small FBA by moving the position of the FRONT stitching line.
I have to lower stitching which incidentally creates the front tuck by 2.5cm to correspond to my bust height
Final Garment:
Dusky lilac ( the camera and monitor not true colour) microfiber knit.
Crappy neckline, stretched out before i stitched the wretched thing.
This version is probably too long , as it creates pooling of fabric in the high hip area .See below for explanation.

Observations:
If the KVDA top is anything like the morph.
The tie ends may need to be made had needed to extend the ties on the #1961 and I have a relatively small waist for size.
Watch out for dog eared tie ends( I should know)
The very scoop / boat neckline may not crew neckline probably balances the elements the best.
Striped fabric , if in the genre of the prison suit ( #1736 bustle back jacket or #2056 origami top) would be stunning.
The finished length on the morph ( same as VKD Akker) is too long for a sleek feel the top works best if length just skims past the waist as longer creates wads of fabric and bulk in the high hip area.
On my tops I made them 49cm ( 19 inches) just so they sat just below my waistline.
I will update to blog any observations once I have the # 2971 in my hot little hands

***********************************************************************
Overview of the knits made in the last couple of weeks.
Will put up details in the next couple of days.
Today the weather feels more like Lagos or Laos than London ,off to enjoy the unseasonal warm weather

FO:Burda WOF Coat 9/2005 #102

2007-04-11T16:17:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Pattern: Burda WOF September 2005 # 102
Fabric:"British Plaid " Wool coating
Lining: Rayon/Cotton heavy satin
Buttons: Horn

Pattern Bio:Soft A-line figure flattering seams , menswear tabs, buttonhole pockets with flaps , wide notched collar and two rows of horn buttons.

Mods/Alterations.
Coat has multiple front seams which would make fudging a bit of width easy need width and depth and double breasted coats should normally be a no no.
Made a full sized test garment in a bogus heavy weight silk tweed.
Fitted the test garment over a complete suit ensemble.Much easier to check fit and ease with resorting to optimistic pattern hacking.
The coat was boxy but I needed some extra room in the hip area.Kept the silhouette pretty much the same as over fitting would have resulted in a matronly look.
Omitted the flap pockets , too much going on in the mid section, and used the inseam option on view #101
Construction Tips
Soft tailoring using satin weave( coat fusible) as the base interfacing, modified from the Burda WOF layout.
Straight and off grain tapes used on front edge and to crack at the lapel roll line.
Back interfacing was a cotton muslin ( woven.
Armhole reinforcement tape applied
Sleeve wraps and chest plastron ala TFox method.
The interfacings , tapes and tailoring video/ DVD available from English Couture company.(NAVY)
Bias hair canvas used for hem interfacing.
Buttonholes: What a kerfuffle.Bound buttonholes were not working, better to use snaps than ruin some uber expensive cloth.After a gazillion trials settled for corded buttonholes.
Used Clover silk thread with Gutermann top stitching thread as the cord filler .Used A46 buttonhole style , designed for heavy weight fabrics on the Viking-Husqvarna Orchidea .This is a nifty buttonhole design , without pilling on too much thread in the bars.
Due to a lot of she handling and over pressing( over processing) I have sent the coat to a specialist dry cleaner to revitalise and give a final press.

I am not likely to run Max Mara or any other designers out of town any time soon am so done with coats for now.
Back to cranking out simple tee tops.

FO: Burda WOF 3/2004 Jacket

2007-04-04T17:34:00.000-06:00

Project
Pattern: Burda WOF 3/2004 Style # 101
Fabric: Garigue Wool, Cotton, Rayon Tweed
Lining: White Silk Satin
Shell: Black Rayon Lycra Vogue # 2555 OOP
Skirt: Black HBoss Wool twill Butterick # 4602 OOP

Mods/Construction Details:
Straightforward project.The only things worthy of mention are related to the fabric's quirky characteristics.
The jacket fabric is a very loosely woven one consisting of white n black wool roving woven onto a mesh consisting of white cotton cords and thinner rayon cotton threads.Made for a very unstable loosey goosey hand

Entire jacket underlined with Light Silky touch couture interfacing( described as the closest thing to fusible organza)
Weft insertion interfacing then applied to specific areas.Armhole reinforcement tape used , sleeve wrap and shoulder pads .
Front foldline which is the "grown on" variety was stabilised with selvedge strips of silk organza.The neck line also stabilised using bias strips of same organza.
Prick stitches used to hold the facings in place
Two shades of silk threads were used the one for jacket internal construction was a couple of shades off ( two shades off), this was done as pulling of preumed stray white threads may have resulted in yanking out the white rayon threads and creating huge gaps in base fabric.Same colour winter white thredas used for all the external hand work

Pockets were hand applied using the double stitching method.

Closure were hammer on snaps as indicated in the Burda WOF instructions
Ensemble completed with plain black knit tee and a nifty princess seamed straight skirt that required only 80 cm of fabric.

Back in Time for Tea

2007-04-02T16:21:00.000-06:00

Had a fabulous time at the Sewing for Pleasure Expo at the NEC last saturday.
Arrived in Birmingham pronto and made a quick dash to Giesse Scampoli at the St Andrews Retail Park.Notions, interfacings and buttons, made small talk in Italian and 50 minutes later worked my way to the NEC.
Loved the Knitted Garden complete with a tea party in progress.
Met the knitters from the Guild and Liberty Knitting Group and learnt to properly finger knit.Very cool , will be able to teach my lilnneens.
This particular show is probably the best of the current UK ones for dressmaker.Well worth attending.
Some of the highlights were
Sewing Today ( Vogue , Butterick, McCall's Patterns) Workshops
Sewing World Magazine dressmaking forums.
I attended two workshops( welt pockets, all in one dress facings) lecture on fit/fabrics.
Pattern fitting clinic .
The main British sewing educators including Gill Arnold , Lorna Knight ,Janet Moville, Alison Smith, Michelle Pye.
Update on the Terry Fox method speed tailoring.
Great Fashion show .
Fabrics : loads ( none for me though) Spent time chatting with Mrs Duffy and team on the Linton Tweed stand, Geoff at M Rosenberg & son, Danny at Giesse Scampoli.
Great yarn deals at Black Sheep , Riverside Spinning, Web of Wool .
Knitting Clinic by Rowan/Patons from Coats.
Sewing machines purring , Embellishers galore with very competitive show discounts.None for me at least on this side of the pond.
.
Did I make any purchase??? No big tag items
Nifty hoestmass, a self retaining tape measure from Germany
Presser feet from Husqvarna Viking Studio
Lingerie findings
Tailoring stuff( interfacing , and assortment of shaping tapes) from English Couture Stand
NO YARN NO YARN NO YARN
FABRICS ?????? *************
Didn't get sucked into some dodgy magazine subscription laced with useless gifts.
Goody bags with great notions , samples ,brochures catalogues and

I am back to the usual , trying to play catch up with a very hectic schedule.

Sewing for Pleasure 2007

2007-03-29T00:29:00.000-06:00

Sewing for Pleasure Exhibition
The National Show for all Textile Crafts
29th March - 1st April 2007
Birmingham NEC , Hall 12
Show Details
The best of the UK Sewing /Craft Expos for dressmakers.
I will zipping up to Birmingham on Saturday with a quick detour to Giesse Scampoli
**************************************************

Work In Progress.
I have been working on my third winter coat of the season.
It is great to get them done( well into Spring but who cares)
The pattern is Burda WOF September 2005 # 101 amended

The coat is actually completed, lined and just waiting for closures.
The original coat was done in two versions, aboucle tweed with snap closures and the camel coat above with functional buttonholes and buttons.

Popular opinion may indicate bound buttonholes or nothing for coats ( Not my personal view, as I dont do dogma)
I have sent samples of fabric scraps to two local , very experienced sewing friends to test and make bound buttonholes , machine and hand worked ones.
Okay , bad results ........................................... If Joan cant get great bound buttonholes, then they wont work for me.She had even offered to do them freebie style for me.
I am going to let the coat stew for a week whilst I get on with other pesky sewing
Burda tweed jacket coming up pronto.

FO: Vogue 2954 Donna Karan Shirt

2007-03-26T09:17:00.000-06:00

Project
Patter: Vogue 2954 Donna Karan Shirt Jacket
Fabric: Satin face Cotton Lycra Broadcloth

Mods/Details.
By hocus pocus I picked out the size to make.With dropped shoulders and a presumed very loose fit , horizontal flat measurements didnt provide a lot to work with.
There is no finished body measurements on the pattern pieces except for the sleeve width.
Alterations are possible as the waistline is marked.
The instructions: Well with sawdust between one's ears , who knows?
I didnt read the instructions properly ( to my peril I add) and with imperial measurements , I messed up a few seams.
Purists may find the instructions for the yoke treatment a tad outdated.
Caution: The belt is the same size for sz 14-20 so one may need to alter.I made the belt san fringe( too lazy) cutting on the cross grain instead of bias because my fabric had lycra.
A fun project in the genre of vintage Issey Miyake patterns with felled seams and loads of topstitching.
The final garment looks heaps better on moi , even with the knockers I cant do anything about.
I would make agin in a heavy silk dupioni or tafetta.
Planning to wear with stretch linen long skirt ( dont ever wear trousers)

FO:Burda WOF 9/2006 # 126 Wool Coat

2007-03-23T08:51:00.000-06:00

Project Details

Pattern:Burda WOF 9/2006 Style #126 A

Description:Knee nipping coat , fitted and tailored true to style , with flared hemline wide notched collar and revers/lapel.Giant non functional buttons and covered snap closure.
Fabric: Blue wool/cashmere felted boucle
Lining: Twill satin

Mods/Alterations:
Reasonabley easy to put together coat.Great pattern for small yardages.I used 2.5 metres to get a 104cm length coat.
Alterations done for figure xteristics , the coat version A was 92 cm , too short for my requirements so pattern lengthened to 104 cm.
Soft/Speed tailoring techniques as in the UK Terry Fox et al method.
I used super soft superior ( suit weight weft type fusible interfacing) The satin weave which is a heavier coat weight type didn't fuse well so parts of the front had a double layer.
Back upper view shows the collar edge fold( last post re: turn of cloth)
Coat was completely lined on the machine above picture shows the front facing/lining hem interface.This is completely finished on the sewing machine using the instructions which has been featured in Burda WOF past issues from the late 1990s.The article I currently refer to was the Pro-tip from BWOF 8/2000.There is a comparable article in Threads magazine issue # 108.The Burda article is better to grasp the concept as the illustrations are made up of line drawings depicting the exact stitching paths.

Sleeve heads used .There are a few more varieties( will take a pic with the next coat) I used the upper precut version in this coat .
Buttons are non functional and yippee no pesky buttonholes to make .I didnt want to get the mgea big ones depicted in the magazine , so I ysed 27 mm size ones .
The snaps were covered with lining.Made them in the prescriptive method , only change is that I cut out the circles with pincking sheras to reduce fraying.

Great coat , one that I wll make again.

Rendevous in Town, Sewing in progress

2007-03-20T03:49:00.000-06:00

Last week Tini and spouse were in London on a break , and I had the privilege of catching up with them mid week.They were absolutely charming.
A pit stop for caffeine , then a visit to Liberty yarn department.Despite the small snarfu we came away with purchases.Moi the princess enabler assisted Tini with her purchase of some yummy Rowan yarn and pattern book , I got a couple more mini pattern books, Bamboo Tape and one of the new RYC books.We were even able to squeeze a detour into R D Franks before they had to go.
Lucky me , Tini gifted the above Burda Easy Fashion S/S 2007 and Online knitting book.
Thank you very very much Tini for taking the time out for a rendezvous

Enabler Alert
Earlier on in the same week a trip to the Westend had me in RDFranks .The ultimate shop for fashion books, magazines and pattern drafting texts.They had the above pictured drafting tools on closeout.
Ivorine1/4 and1/5th scale
Neck and Armhole Guide copyright MRohr.
Each at £1.00 each.Well worth if local to London snagging them up , or find a crafting pal to help purchase

Project: Burda WOF 9/2006 #125
I am sewing quite a bit but the lack of time and dodgy computer gizmos( no change anytime soon) means blogging is waaaaaaaaaaaaay down the pile of things to do.
The Burda WOF coat is done and will put up dodgy pictures sharpish.

The fabric used: Felted wool cashmere boucle, somewhat friable .
No real suprises in the construction just a few things to think through because the fabric whilst light is still bulky.
Apart from deciding the choice of interfacings and how to deal with interfacing or not in seam allowances to try and reduce bulk , the lapel/collar edge seams usually needs drafting adjustments.l
One could guess the amount of tolerance needed for the top collar to completely cover the under collar aka Turn of Cloth.
Burda WOF in recent times dont have a separate pattern piece for the top and under collar Probably best as any pattern company draft will not work for all agrment weights

Calculating for Turn of Cloth
I work out the amount of fabric need to add to the top collar edge to completely cover the under collar prior to cutting , and adapt the top collar and front facing lapel pattern pieces accordingly.
1.Cut two rectangle of fashion fabric and two pieces of the interfacings .
I used supersoft superior and medium weight silky couture.
2.Sew the interfaced pieces together.

3.Three point press( on each side of the seamline and then open the seam for third step)
4.Bevel and grade the seam , fold and press favouring the outer garment piece.
5. The facing/under collar piece is now shorter and the difference in measurement here 3mm is the amount needed to amend the draft for undercollar and front facing lapel.

Why bother? For me it save stopping whilst putting the component parts together to jugggle pinching out , taking blisters and whatnot, and works well for all weights of fabrics .Saves me five to ten minutes I reckon.

My Fabric London

2007-03-10T09:10:00.000-06:00

I had taken these pictures todo a write up a few months ago .Oh well at least it is getting done The question of fabric shopping in London comes up often, and while there are resources from search engines to reviews to magazine articles some of the gems are oft omitted.
This is my town , so there is very little about shopping in London I dont know.
The usual responses would probably include West End Crawl , Berwick Street and environs, Edgware Road/Church Street for the couture quality fabrics.
Street markets like Walthamstow, Roman Road , Church Street, S Bush, Borough .
Ethnic type fabrics in Brick Lane, Southall , Ealing Road Wembley.
Old Brompton Road for Libery Prints, Camden Town , Ladbroke Grove blah blah blah

My London underground Fabric Sources
Material World
13 Market Place
Acton London W3 6QS
Tel: 0208 993 1068
Open Mon- Fri
Cash and Cheques.No mail order

Also known as the dive.The pictures tell the whole story.
The fabrics are sourced from design studio , jobbers high street sample studios, even vintage fabrics from defunct shops and costume makers.
Price range from £1-10 with most of the fabrics between two and five pounds.
Regularly designer ends of lines as well as fabrics from M &S***ks, H**bs and a host of UK high street and bridge clothing collections.

Disadvantages.
You may have to develop the stashing personality.I always have danger money in my car so if a visit coincides with the delivery of say interfacings, bemberg linings , lingerie findings , We( as in the west london sewing cartel) clear them out.
End of rolls, may not have enough metres for project, may be missing care labels .
Fabrics often ahead of season , eyelets for example were available last year before they even hit the shops.
Some knowledge of fabric quality, trend forecasting is helpful.
But with savings of up to 90% off for often sensational high end gear , its a no brainer
My last visit I scooped silk satin from Amanda Wakeley , spring boucle and some microfibre knit.
What I left behind this week included a stunning brown and pink mesh fabric with embroidery overlay and fabric flowers, giant dogtooth coating from fall 2006 M & S range, lingerie findings and a very pretty print silk chiffon.

Linings , notions , interfacings shoulder pads , corsages often available.
Italian suitings, VPL(viscose poly lycra) , tweeds , coatings.
Faux furs , raincoatings , quilted linings , even real leather and suede on occaisons.
Impressive selection of prints available all year round.
The secret source for the best quality knits IMHO from some of the top mills in Italy.These are piled high in the wooden box bang in the centre of the store.I have purchased knits that have been seen in J'''''***** for £30-40 a metre.

Full Picture Tour
Well worth putting on your Fabric map , or a hike if local or visiting London.

Jersey Vogue Fabrics
14 Station Road
Edgware Middlesex
HA8 7AB
0208 952 7751
Open Mon-Fri, Sun .Closed Saturday
Cash and Cheques.No mail order
Similar to the dive. Probably have the best selection of linings in a gazillion colours and weights .They have interfacings in a myriad of colours.Above( mid project) is a small colour samplings of the fusible tricot interfacings they stock.The only place I have found silky couture interfacing in colours other than black , white and nude.
They clear Frank Usher , Windsmoor, Mulberry ends etc and have a very good selection of silks, blends and knits ( mainly poly types).
Many fabrics dont have care tags , but they will sample if you have your pyrotechnics kit on you( fabric burn test bits n bobs)
Small selection of regular priced sewing threads, notions.

Yarn Shopping in London

2007-03-10T08:47:00.000-06:00

Tini asked about yarn shopping in London.Mmmh I only buy the British brands locally and all foreign brands(Phildar Phildar Phildar GGH GGH GGH Lang Lang Lang) from source

Polly on All Tangled Up has an excellent review bar the newer shops.
Polly's Yarn Shop Review

Liberty
Regent Street
W1
For Rowan Jaeger Gedifra, Kaffe Fasset patchwork fabrics.

John Lewis
Oxford Street
W1A IEX
4th Floor
Yarn Dept for Rowan Jaeger Debbie Bliss Noro Sirdar Patons Louise Harding yarns and books
Adjacent haberdashery department with fabrics notions etc and pattern counter for Vogue, Simplicity and New Look patterns

Peter Jones
Same as J Lewis concession
Sloane Square
Close to Sloane Square Tube station

Stash
Carries the more exotic US brands
213 Upper Richmond Street
Putney
SW15 6SQ

Loop
Newish shop with online sales.
Carries GGH, Colinette, Alchemy and a loads more difficult to source yarns in the UK
41 Cross Street
Islington
London NI

Husqvarna Studio in Putney carry Gran studio and Adriafil yarns and the prices are competitive.Useful to see and try the yarns as the Garn Studio have the most amazing knitting patterns which are free and have been translated to many languages.

I am not recommending any of the newer yarn shops , for me Liberty and John Lewis are just fine.

Catch up sewing update???

2007-03-06T18:09:00.000-06:00

The picture above was taken almost two weeks ago , something along the lines of loving the postie with brown envelopes and the blue sticker bearing par avion or Airmail usually indicates goodies.And no exception this time.More poignant as the Patrones magazine and Vogue Miyake pattern landed with a wishwashyesque Interweave Knits and worse , more ghastly( not really) professional titles.
Thank you very much Marita &Sue.
Well mandatory medical journals added to the almost tottering pile meant catch up in the real world beckoned.
Have done a fair amount of sewing over the winter , mainly basics and replacements.
Dodgy Internet access and a dressmaker dummy recovering( or not) from a botched nip and tuck and the lack of time to post drivel......................
Brown/pink plaid bias skirt with back fishtail .Pattern OOP McCalls
BWOF 10/2006 jacket

Sunny sunny day in London , but wool boucle coat needs to be finished

Old Curiosity Craft Shop

2007-02-19T06:10:00.000-06:00

As a sewer , there is always the pull to sniff out crafting shops, dives even on vacation.

I had the option of travelling forty minutes to a big city to a one stop gigantic superstore chain ,deeply discounted patterns just didnt appear remotely appealing, but for who grew up rummaging Portobello Market and Brick Lane as a young adult , off the beaten path was more my style and def more enticing.
A combination of searching out the local pages jaunes and asking the concierge lead to an addy circled on the downtown street map.
The shop is ehmm , well in smallville , I mean in the middle of nowhere( no offence to the locals)
What a treasure trove
Imagine 1950-70s notions, yarns, tapestry kits, patterns notions.I was told the shop had recently changed hands which led to unearthing many a vintage packs.
For me I purchased
Very vintage button snaps
Silk covered snaps
Current jumbo bias maker( and they stock bigger gigantic ones)
Lucked out on the last Dritz bound buttonholer Oh well.

Vintage Craft Shop

Back Home lugging my designer( laundry )bag

2007-02-15T18:04:00.000-06:00

Back in London , maybe not lugging the above Louis Vuitton S/S 2007 bag.
In london it was the buzz before Xmas 06 , now it is mainstream( on UK telly , forums , chat shows ) so very very passe.
Just that my niece in Canada saw pictures in a glossie and was absolutely horrified at the price.
She rolled her eyes and asked what was so different from the half a dozen or so in the attic???
Search online will bring up many posts about the bags , blah blah blah.
We know them as laundry bags in the UK, West African label it as " Ghana must go" a very demeaning referral to luggage used when there was a mass Ghanian deportation form a neigbouring WAfrican country about two decades or so ago.Safe to say street cred down the tube if sported on that subcontinent
The designer MJ in a recent magazine article was quoted as saying" The aesthetics of the design team is reverse snobbery.The clever irony of the laundry bag being a prime example, but the fact that it is finished in exquisite leather elevated it to luxury status".
Me thinks he is taking the mickey.

Six flights, many hours in executive lounges, three time zones , differing weather systems, professional meetings and talks , luxury spa and ski chalet( not piste).I am knackered and need to try and play catch up.
Thanks to all that popped by Bleaksville and left comments.
Have a great weekend

Hand Crafted for me

2007-02-14T16:37:00.000-06:00

Precious.
Happy Valentines's Day

Currently away on a field trip.

2007-02-10T15:21:00.000-06:00

Not been anywhere near this or any other cybersite for some time.
Currently a few thousand miles from base , for the last week and the next too.Closer to eskimos and polar bears than mirages and oases.
Spending some time in Canada on a work trip, then off to a spa for a few days .
After that the ski slopes beckon, more apres ski and hot drinks all day long for me than the ski piste.

Nothing to do with sewing knitting , fashion or crafts.I could come up with some half baked crap , about travel wardrobe choices, fashion spotting .........

Spending time in airports / lounges connecting a zillion flights means I have read many fashion magazines in the past ten days.And I am still convinced they are a complete waste of money and time.
A detour to a bigger Canadian city to look at yarns and sundries if time allows .
Back to London in the next week
A bientot

Ducking and Diving in London n Paris

2007-01-28T09:44:00.000-06:00

The last week has been a blast.First we had snow in London, and probably most of Europe, not a big deal if one lived in the real temperate climes.2 inches of snow overnight simply cripples this city of mine.
The paradox is that the shops have switched from winter togs to spring summer collections this very week.Imagine yellow, white, peach in shop windows in subzero weather.
Went to collect a RTW jacket ordered from town. Curvy means largish size which equates to garments get sold out sharpish.Got a chance to look at a few other collections, some great stuff but too distracted to pay attention.

Then the biggie of the week.
A suprise visit to Paris at the end of the week to catch the now finished Balenciaga Exhibition.
SUPERB.

Sewing , Knitting???
The blue coat is done less final press, and off to get ready for the next week.
Have a great week

Working on Burda WOF Navy Coat

2007-01-21T09:48:00.000-06:00

I have been working on a Burda WOF coat.Aged as opposed to vintage from 1996 October issue
A winter break( like sub zero temps) looming means I needed to get my skates on.
Although it is a roomy coat , I still need length in the front from shoulder to waist.
FBA done and dart rotated to the armhole.
This a great fix when sewing bulky fabrics as the transferred dart is always smaller than original horizontal dart.

I am almost done , with only the bottom of lining to sew as well as buttonholes.So I hope to upload pictures during the week as soon able to do so.
I wont be having great in progress notes or pictures, but if you visit Tany at Couture et Tricot , she is currently working on a stunning Orwell/Burda WOF coat with excellent pictures and notes.To boot her blog is bilingual, Way cool.

Adrienne Vittadini Lace Ruffle Cardigan

2007-01-17T18:27:00.000-06:00

Pattern: Adrienne Vittadini Spring 2005
Lace cardigan with ruffle edges with picot cast off effect on edges and sleeve hems
Original Yarn: Dianna 51% Cotton 49% Acrylic 98yds/50gm
Yarn Sub:Paton Washed Haze. 50% Cotton 50%Acrylic 101yds/50gm
( El cheapo but great sub for Rowan ASC,GGH Samoa, Phildar Aviso et al)
Needles:4.5mm straight and circular needles
Modifications:
Well.................... since this cardi only took a whole year to knit , my annotated copy of the pattern just has numbers scribbled alongside the schematics.
I made the front a whole size larger from the back.
From the side view , easy to see why.Usually need more length and width for the front .Didnt have the courage to try shortrows.
Lengthened by 2.5cm below the waist, and 2 cm before the armhole , as a result I needed to recalculate the V front slope shaping and the ruffles.
The main lace portion , wasnt too difficult despite the fact that there was no chart for the basic lace pattern or the shaping.I used the Katharina Buss "Big book of Knitting".
Only to finish the charting the lace pattern with it's shaping, to discover that design #6 has same lace design and a chart.
Ran out of yarn after finishing the major parts , phoned around London and the home counties trying to locate same dyelot for a few weeks .Lost the will to cast on for the ruffles on yarn find, so hid the bag in a very dark cupboard for the next eleven months.
New year and all that ,UFO is really an alien word in my dicto so got my skates on and finished the cardigan sharpish.

Skirt seen with cardi :
Burda WOF 1/2007 Style # 111
Fabric: Black diagonal cloth
Lining: Stretch acetate/poly lining.
Great style lines.Note the concave and convex shaping going on.
Burda makes no mention or caution, but it needs staystitching and clipping to make the sewing smooth and pucker free.
Decided on tone on tone topstiching.I will make another version in the summer with contrast threads

Burda WOF Archives now online

2007-01-17T06:54:00.000-06:00

Yep , yet another quick post.Like the proverbial # 36 bus ( one waits half hour for the bus and then 3 to 4 show up)Or maybe one is just on temporary release from the Zoo.

Great news for Burda WOF groupies like moi, sewers who need to refer to back issues or bloggers who regularly review BWOF designs.
Archives of the magazines from 2004-2006 are on the German site.

Archiv von Burda Modemagazin

Need to upload pictures for a proper sewing and knitting blog entry( like when?)

Ubiquitous Burda Twist Top becomes a dress

2007-01-16T18:14:00.000-06:00

The new Burda Plus Fashion S/S 07 E952 magazine is out.
Working through insomnia , stumbled on the infamous twist top from Burda WOF April 2005.
Currently offered in Burda sizes 44- 54
Based on this article on Sewing Divas , well worth snagging a copy when it hits the news stands.

Burda patterns will grade up and down two sizes easily and correctly.They have the fix printed in numerous back issues.
So Burda sizes 40 and 42 will be easy peasy to recreate.
Not only is there the tee top, the design now comes morphed into a dress.

WOW:New Issey Miyake Vogue Pattern

2007-01-15T14:31:00.000-06:00

ForIssey Miyake fans, there is a new Vogue pattern issue
The first pattern in (what?) three to four years.And what a treat.
Just Stunning.
Specs:VP 2952
Jacket and Skirt.Lined with tucks, mock wrap skirt with uneven hemline

Back to the here and now.Pulled out my knitting UFO , with some determination just stitches to completion.
Okay fess up , I am done will post pics tomorrow.

Patrones Sewing Magazines

2007-01-13T11:48:00.000-06:00

Maria left a comment asking about Patrones magazines and how to source.
Patrones:
Hymsa say "A fashion magazine first published in September 1982. Styles from Pret a porter , with each style in a natural shape( read as body hugging close fitting) Spanish size 40-44-48.
Great designer styles with name dropping labels regularly featured

How to locate
Direct Subscription from Spain
They offer yearly subs as well as sell single copies
Patrones Website
Dutch Online seller
Holland
German Ebay
Current Ebay Auctions
On PReview there are messages in the forum on the availability for the Americas
PR Forum
Eye Candy
Patrones Russian Site
Has excellent preview picture monthy

With some coaxing I am hoping to get a certain "someone" to do Patrones pattern preview here monthly.

FO:BWOF 12/06 Dress morphed into Twist top

2007-01-13T11:07:00.000-06:00

Yes , another pesky knit top( One of the very garment that is so derided online)
Nothing special except that the knit top started life as a dress in Burda WOF December 2006

Fabric:
Purple Viscose Lycra Knit
Pattern :
Burda WOF 12/06 Style #110
Modifications:
Using a basic well fitting knit top pattern.I have knit slopers made for Burda Pattern 3197 and Vogue/Butterick B6084 ( which works for Big 3/4)
This time I used a basic pattern from Burda WOF 10/2006 # 114 for the modifications.
This pattern is very close cousin to the famous Burda paper pattern version

1.Overlay the unaltered basic knit on the front and back pattern on the dress pattern pieces.

With Burda , the draft is ( always) consistent and the waistline are always marked.
Note the size on the knit top pattern that corresponds to your measurements.This will accomodate for the difference in ease rquired by a woven vs knit fabric.

2.Trace on the style lines onto native unaltered knit patterns.

3.Using a well fitting pattern cancels trying to jazz up a new armhole /sleeve combo.

4.Alter the new pattern pieces for figure xteristics( not flaws) The dress pattern has a low , wide neckline and I needed to add about 2 cm and raise the back neckline.
FBA easy to do ( except I forgot to remove the waistline excess)
Great version of ever popular twist top.
This tweaked pattern I intend to make again in a print knit.
Would also be super in stretch silk charmeuse.

Fiberly Updates

2007-01-10T18:13:00.000-06:00

The new year is well underway , and so far so good.
All the necessary seasonal greetings and wellwishes done off blog and life has settled quite nicely.

No resolutions to share ,nothing grand , clever or self serving .

Knitting
I havent felt like knitting at all , and that is just fine.
The Xmas sale in Liberty & John Lewis must be a first for me.
No yarn purchase, just two discounted books.The offering wasnt special , with chunky rowan yarns, Trinity and Merino Aran and Chunky from Jaeger.Debbie Bliss Cathay and Cotton Cashmere just didn't cut it for me.
Not to mention the bags full of yarn waiting patiently?
With three knitting UFOs to battle with , me thinks they have to be priority.

GGH Rebecca #33 is out and a copy winging its way from Germany.
Two new yarns to boot , silk and a cashmere feeling cotton blend.

Phildar News
SOLDES REDUCTION
January sale underway with selection of cotton yarns as well as older knitting catalogues on offer.

Six new spring summer yarns and for Phildar more natural fibre yarns.Cotton , Bambou, Lyocell.
Phil Bambou, Phil Thalassa and Detente I am quite keen to try out.
Way to go Phildar......................

Up to my eyes in Patrones and Burda WOF, scads of them with stickies for shortlisted designs and not much progress.
Jacket and three skirts done........................ and navy blue coat ready to sew.

Welcome to my 2007

Priceless

2006-12-24T16:20:00.000-06:00

Priceless.
Thank you very much for a super sewing friend

Wishing all, the very best for the festive season.

Eku Odun Eku iyedun
Merry Christmas and Happy 2007
Joyeux Noel
Hyvaa Joulua
Froehliche Weihnatchen
Vrolijk Kerstfeest
Boas Festas
Feliz Navidad
Shinnen Ometedo.Kurisumasu Omedeto

No dress for the festive season?

2006-12-23T08:12:00.000-06:00

Cinders may not be going to the ball.There is no new dress for the festive season.
Version three of toile has been made,after two paper ones.The fit perfected,tweaks and glitches ironed out ,I even worked a great series of steps for sewing instructions.
This is the catwalk original of the dress, my version is from Patrones Sewing magazine #251 December 2006 Style 27.
My sewing elves seem to have vaporised, possibly in Lapland?? helping Santa n Mamma Clau
s.
Burda WOF 12/2006 #107 A to the rescue

Sorry about the poor picture quality( still IT poor)
Fabric
Black viscose lycra front
Stretch tulle for the back, underlined with skintone acetate/viscose tricot knit.
Design Specs
The top is exactly as Burda described , wide ultra low with skinny narrow overlong sleeves.
Great design lines , uber sultry, fitted with contrast sheer tulle back and shelf bra front facing.

Yikes, the expanse of chest on display, if worn in the daytime would get one the sack.No wonder the model sports a giant ruff.
To make it wearble for the day , one would need to raise the front and pinch out a dart to keep the neckline ( from gaping)taut.
Marita has also made this top in the smallest size with same results, and suggested adding ruffled lace edging to make more modest.

Going to the Ball?
You bet , teamed with a RTW silk satin bias skirt and black silk organza shawl as a substitute for the ruff.
And the purple side twist top, converted from Burda WOF 12/2006 # 110 a woven dress pattern for the second dinner party.
Salut

What has gone down

2006-12-18T04:34:00.000-06:00

Gobsmacked to see that I havent had an entry for a few weeks.Wouldn't even try to give any excuses

Sewing update.
I have only done the not so entertaining epic??? what is required essential needed sewing.
Three grey skirts
Three skinny turtleneck tops
New Look Mock wrap dress

Knit top redraft from Burda WOF woven dress from Burda WOF 12/2006
Knit decollette top from Burda WOF 12/2006

Finished three jacket toiles, and currently working on a dress from the latest Patrones magazine .( Cinders , will I get it done before the festive season is upon one?)

Fashion( &Fabric) Crawl
Lunch at Harvey Nicks
Visit to Giesse Scampoli .
Snoop razz at Flannels
(Think Browns in Birmingham)
My design journal full of tidbits/ inside views of great garments.

Will attempt to put up( blurry pictures, because I stll dont have my computer fixed) .
Octopus/Octopi , any spare hands ...................................... gotta run

Off Course making Toiles

2006-11-28T10:26:00.000-06:00

My laptop is ICU.Files/Folders , Journal notes, Pictures of WIP all currently in a deep coma.
Vintage desktop compupa is the backup at home ............say no more.

The arrival of a certain pattern, last week ( along with other goodies.Thank you very as always M)
Patrones #223 style 11
A Chanel jacket ,and as the Patrones pattern is recreated from an original jacket, took a breatherfrom working on the coat to explore the pattern pieces, except the jacket pattern is drafted with the side panel seam.
That requires a separate post to explain where the shaping is , and the limitations for a curvy female form requiring FBA (Full bust alterations)

Left the prepping for the WIP............one of two winter coats for fitting and making up of several toiles.

Similar pattern draft from Burda WOF 3/2004 Style #102.

Burda patterns I know what to do to them to get them to fit.Seemed the best way to get a better feel for the Patrones sloper and pattern drafts.Trace and alter both patterns
Compare the differences in the two slopers and try to get the Patrones one to fit( ambitious , yes I know)
Metres of cream wool pulled out and a foray into the dark side commenced.

I have fitted the panel seam type patterns in the past and have working prototypes for the versions with and without side seams.It is one of the most difficult alterations to do successfully.
After browsing back issues of Burda WOF stumbled on an article which made rethink and try out different options.

Unable to load more pictures right now.( No decent software on this dinosaur)

I am not even sure if I would want to do so.
This isnt a ( please tell me if my rear is too big in &***~~@.OH NO you don't) blog.
Iknow the answers thank you very much.
Incidentally I search online for FBA for the panel seam ( which is not the princess seam draft) yielded very little.Reviews for Vogue and Burda WOF styles as above had no specific /useful info.

Off to resuscitate the compupa

FO:Miss Marple Tweed skirt and Top

2006-11-21T05:58:00.000-06:00

Project
Tweed skirt and Knit top( aka Miss Marple Take 1)
Patterns
Top Butterick 3391 OOP View E
Skirt Burda 8280View B
Fabrics
Top: Eggplant and Taupe Print Viscose Lycra Knit
Skirt: Eggplant Wool & Silk Tweed
Lining: Acetate & Viscose Twill
Details/Mods:
Cookie cutter type of sewing.The kind of project that extends and refreshes one's wardrobe
No tweaks , no glitches , no suprises.
Top alteration details

Waistline Options:
Culled from previous BWOF Projects
To avoid bulk at the waist edge for skirts that have no waistband , I attach the lining to the waist edge omitting the facing.
For edge stability I use one of these options
1.Fusible interfacing cut to the shape of facing( pattern for which is present or created) Pink the lower end to prevent show through.

2.Vilene Bias Tape
Non woven grain reinforced tape with a chain stitch 4mm in.
Often quoted in Burda WOF patterns.( Sometimes called fuse and fold ????? by Burda WOF)Excellent for knits as well as speed tailoring for reinforcing the armsyce.
Close up picture

3.Off Grain fusible Tape
8% Off grain fusible woven tape.Another essential item for soft tailoring.
Available in the UK from English Couture and I think in the USA from Louise Cuttings

For my skirt used fusible tricot knit interfacing in wine , cut to the facing pattern.
Lining and fabric interface ironed to the lining side , pressed and understitched with the serpentine or 3 step zigzag stitch.

Fabric Crawl circa Edgware Road

2006-11-20T15:58:00.000-06:00

How does one get into deep trouble? Arrange to meet a fellow fabricaholic for lunch on Church Street.
Not the smartest thing to do when three of the best fabric shops in London are metres apart

Joel and Son Fabrics

Hadson Fabrics

Jason's Fabrics
(Absorbing Allans of Duke Street)

We are talking prices that will make one's eyes water.The fabrics are just stunning and stupendous prices to match. The knits including plain and print silk jerseys ,cobweb mohairs , hand knit look lace knits rayon&lycra knits TDF and the very best selection of felted wools.
Shops that should be in every sewer's address book.

Few hours later ( details heavily censored)............................

The black and white viscose & lycra knit will be for a tee top inspired by the Blumarine one Gigi on Behind the Seams blog had a little while ago

We were only able to count our pennies (literally ) for late lunch/snack in a greasy spoon by Church Street Market.

Later this week I should be able to post about the other end of my fabric shopping.The Dive

Viktor and Rolf for H& M Collection

2006-11-09T19:03:00.000-06:00

Any fashion trendy will have heard about, or even gone out and joined the frenzy to score from the latest designer collection to hit H &M stores ( 250 stores worldwide) that launched on the 9th November 2006. This time it is the dessign duo of Viktor & Rolf
My fav piece is actually this item, yes another trenchcoat.

The newspaper article shows the melee that erupted in one of the London stores yesterday.
Burda WOF lives up to its name , not just as a pattern magazine but a portal for fashion events as well
Their website ( albeit in German) has the lead article as well as a fashion show showing the collection.

BWOF Viktor &Rolf show

There are other goodies hidden on the Burda WOF site
Devil wear Prada slideshow
The beginning of a fashion wikipedia
One can only guess that some of the looks and trends will translate into sewing patterns.
Way to go BWOF

Guess if isnt obvious that I'm a BWOF groupie , i 'fess up

FO:Vogue #2530 Calvin Klein Raincoat

2006-11-06T07:00:00.000-06:00

Project Details

Outer Garment:Black Viscose & Polyurethane blend. Waterproof/Repellant
Lining: Blue Black Silk & Cotton Satin fabric
Notions: Vinyl and Teflon coated presser foot, Universal needle and Gutermann polyester thread
Interfacing : Non ( see below)

Pattern:
OOP Vogue design.Copyright date 1990.
I acquired the pattern as a gift in 1999 whilst searching for Vogue Issey Miyake patterns.This pattern/ silhouette is still in current Calvin Klein RTW collections with pocket variations.I made the first version in 2000 , in a black cotton canvas rainproof fabric which lasted five years of abuse.

Design Details
Loose fitting, A line, lined coat , above mid knee ,has self or contrast collar on band ,pockets with flaps, back pleats and long sleeves with button bands.
Suitable for Broadcloth, Lwt Gabardine, Flannel Duck and Poplin.Optional Water repellant spray
Finished measurements( size 14) Bust 49 inches, Hips 56 inches Width 60 inches, Length 60 inches.

Alterations: Dartless FBA, lengthened by 3 inches( the original owner defaced the pattern cover)

The above picture is the best representation of the fabric.It has a subtle lustre.
Construction:
In progress pictures located here

The instructions on two sides of single sheet was crammed but excellent.
The construction was straight forward.( Least the times it was scrunched up ready for the bin)

One expects that research on raincoat, outer wear plasticky fabrics already done.
Fabric Sewing Guides, Fabric Savvy etc
Good Articles from Threads Magazine : Issue 19 and 46
Rochelle Harper: Sewing Outerwear fabrics

Main bugbears :
Pressing the wretched fabric.Needed to press scraps starting with the coolest settings and inching up slowly just to the point where 1 degree higher would have meant char.
I used steam even though the fabric is impervious , felt that it increased the temp ever so slightly.
Marks & Holes: No room for ripping , the fabric mars and all needle holes remain.
I was only able to use fine pins in the seam allowances and resorted to wooden clothes pegs and paper clips.
Lucky for me Viking Buttonhole sensor meantI got even reproducible buttonholes.
Interfacing: Addind structure especially to the flaps and collar, and bands should have been a challenge.The prospect to trying out sew-in type interfacings wasnt on the cards.Luckly the fabric was from jobbers and the yardage was pre fused
Vilene do a great Leather non woven fusible LE420 which I have used on vinyl, faux leather and ultrasuede.

A great city coat , roomy enough to wear over complete ensemble, perfect length for driving as well as pounding the pavements.
For me maybe more versatile than my traditional styled trenchcoats.

FO: D Abrahams/Rowan Shaded Squares Bag

2006-11-02T13:25:00.000-06:00

Project : Debbie Abrahams Knitted Bag.

Pattern: Rowan Knitted Kit , the Shaded Squares Bag
Intaria and beaded bag , the back done in two colour garter& stocking stitch stripes.Base and handles in moss stitch

Yarn: Rowan Cotton Glace Coffee Cream colourway

Needles: 2.25mm , 3.0mm

Specs/Mods:
Knitted kit for bag.The kit came boxed with specific weights for the yarn, small glass shell buttons, glass beads( pearl and clear) , piece of lining fabrics and yarn ID tag.
My first full intarsia project, went rather well.Full b/w chart included.
My main beef was the lining.The fabric supplied was a narrow rectangular piece , whilst the instructions required the lining to be cut in one piece ( Rhomoid from rectangle?)

Changes:
Omitted the fabric ties for snap closure.
Left out the buttons on edge of bag( really nice shell buttons better for cardis, shirts?)
For next time , will either double the straps or knit even tighter for strength

The back and side of back showing two colour striped cloth

Close up of the intarsia( no holes , yeah)

Further in progress pictures here

FO: Echarpe Coquille Phildar #440 Accessoires

2006-10-30T15:04:00.000-06:00

Project : Crochet Scarf

Pattern: Phildar #440 Special Accessoires Hiver 05/06

Design: #24 Echarpe Coquille

Yarn: Lang Mille Colori Shade 051 100gms

Needle: Crochet Hook 5mm

Instructions: French , well defined patterns , no charts

Mods& Details
None.Substituted self striping yarn for Frimas
26 shell instead of 36 was obtained with the two balls
Measures 150 cm by 15cm span( original was 190cm by 15cm)
I made a scarf last winter in the original yarn , but found was a bit too long to wrap round neck tastefully.
Great use of self striping single ply yarn
Superfast project for an advanced beginner like moi

No real progress ( again)

2006-10-29T07:57:00.001-06:00

Real life has been tough the past week or so.
And the little matter of some"JuJu" with the sewing machine area( An impermeable invisible barrier)
The Calvin Klein VP raincoat was a sliver away from being trashed.

The parts for Phildar cardi are knitted.Just the fun bits where one knits a zillion rows of ribbing and finishing.At least I'm wanting to get to the covered crochet buttons.

Yummy/Scrummy Yarns?

With gifts boxes and stocking fillers to think about , pulled out some yarn to make accessories.Scarves, mitts, totes , bags, phone cases etc.
I expect I will have to get a knitting machine( even if only the plastic hobby one) to help zip along.

The new Phildar Accessoires book # 461 is out and currently indisponsible( aka sold out on the french site).The book has a great selection of patterns this year.

Hope to get back to speed ASAP.

New Flash: Mighty Chuffed

2006-10-23T08:13:00.000-06:00

Just a quick newsflash.

My brother ( the first of my three brothers) was on the blower to me.
He is being featured on telly , in Toronto Canada.A professional profile airing for about a week.
He was very modest protesting it was only on public tv and didnt expect lots of hits.
The day after airing commenced he was promptly recognised in the shops.
Lots of nudging at the school gates too.

I am mighty chuffed.

Sewing Progress , New Knitting on needles

2006-10-22T16:02:00.000-06:00

New Knitting project underway
Phildar Tendances Hiver # 460 Pattern 12
Yarn: Rowan All Season Cotton as sub for Phildar Quietude.
Love the vintage styling and oversize crochet covered buttons.

A few evenings later, the back is done and front already on needles.Wonder if progress will be sustained?

Vogue Raincoat is stalled.The outer garment is done as is the lining.Welt pockets ( despite having fits) also in place.
The collar and collar band unit is sewn and trimmed and graded.
Need to baste the collar unit and attach the lining.
Then one pass buttonholes, as fabric wont tolerate any ripping.
How difficult is that?????

UpClose : Lace Trenchcoat from Burberry

2006-10-18T04:31:00.000-06:00

Finally able to find time to post about details as noted on the lace trenchcoat.

First the hype:
I was only able to track down the coat at the New Bond St shop.M'am that collection is so exclusive it is only available there I was told at the Regent Street branch. ( and net.a.porter I mumbled)
Coat is apparently completely sold out, and thiry names on the waiting list .Drat , after all that trudging down NBS narrowly missing going into designer shops.
Okay so there was the model in the shop window..............................was I going to be able to pretend I was the window display artist doing a touch up.I dont think so.
Magically another coat appeared , apparently on hold for a lady( lucky her)

Fabric
Antique lace .Soft matte finish scallop edged lace.The coat I examined was the pearl , but there were other pieces from the collection in the black lace.
Fiber content: 60% cotton , 20%rayon, 20% polyamide
Lining: Buff Knit jersey 65% Acetate 35% Polyamide.
This had the hand of fine single knit silk jersey

Design and Construction Notes
Double breasted slimline coat.
Fully lined with knit jersey
Front and back princess seams
Diagonal welt pockets
Three piece raglan sleeves
Sleeve vents with five button closure
Round collar with collar band
Brass hook and bar fastening on collar band
Self covered fabric belt and pearl buckle.
Bone logoed buttons in black
Back short shield
Scalloped egde on front closure ,coat hem, collar and cuffs
Chain coat hanger

Construction
As the coat was not in my size , and I didnt come pretending to be the alterations lady( wrist pincushion, tape round neck and clippers stuck in my hair) I just blagged it by asking to lpeek inside at the construction details.
The majaor seams were flat felled.The main lace handled separate from the the lining.
The side seams had the lace and knit sewn together , pressed open and hongkong seamed with satin.
No interfacing was discernable, perhaps same colour tulle or organza was used
( it was bad enuff to poke and prod the coat , guess it would have been taking the piss to ask for a seam ripper to navigate any deeper?? yes)
The front facing was a thicker version of the buff knit jersey( or two layers bonded for home sewists)
Clever construction for the lace edges .The raw edges were rolled and sewn out of sight .The outer lace collar was sewn as an applique type effect.
Clean finished all round.
The upper end of the diagonal welt was on top of the princess seam( not recommended to copy at home.Think how many layers of fabric to sew through)

Pattern Possibilities
Burda WOF 8/2006 # 111 Line drawing above was the closest.
Needs collar redraft, welt pockets, back shield and a three piece raglan sleeve with vent conversion.
Vogue #2449 OOP
Great trenchcoat to have in collection
Simplicity for Threads # 4084
Patrones January 2006 has Burberry Prosrum trenchcoat pattern
Burda WOF has in many a back issue trenchcoat patterns offering some of the features noted above.

Why bother?
I have always looked at original garments.Started when Vogue Patterns had original design from collection in season.Great way to learn about fabrics, design to fabric marriage , clever and often subtle designer details, and upgrade somewhat humdrum pattern instructions.

It is educational , takes one beyond what is possibly offered in the current sewing journals.
From this coat
1.I need to find out how to draft a three piece raglan sleeve.
2.I need to read on Sewing with lace, and try and work out the inner construction
( Threads magazine #88 # 124, the fabric sewing guides, Bridal couture et al)
3. Dealing with scallop edges

Actually usually because I felt like.

FO: Ene Scarf from Scarf Style

2006-10-15T04:25:00.000-06:00

Pattern: Ene Scarf

Source: Interweave Press Scarf Style book

Yarn: Coned 2/20( finer than 2ply lace weight) Cashmere , Mohair & Nylon blend.

Needles: Circular Addi 4 mm

Original details
It was a relatively quick knit.Completed the scarf/shawl in two or so weeks but then got caught up with stuff .

Specs./Modifications
Double yarn cast on with 375 stitches.Both sides of the central spine and garter edge was knitted at the same time.The stitches quickly tumbled down with the decreases in the various charts.
Great pattern with well annotated charts.
Great Intermediate lace project.
Would I knit again? Probably if there are thirty or so hours in the day

More pictures of project in progress here

There is a french Knitalong with great( IMHO stunning finished versions)
Ene Ensemble

Spooks: Series 5 Episode 5 YIKES

2006-10-10T11:09:00.000-06:00

BBC Spooks ( also known as MI5)
Possibly one of the best TV Drama series.
Just finished watching the current series 5 episode 5 from last night.

Yikes , Double Yikes, and then Triple Yikes.

Wont/cant say more least I spoil it for the BBC America viewers or friends from Europe.

Phildar Website English Version

2006-10-10T06:38:00.000-06:00

Knit in English? or
Knit in French?
( there are great designs in all the books , just being silly)

Phildar website now has English version.
Spent a lil time navigating this morning and my observations are:
Benefits
Great for non French speaking knitters, now able to navigate site with ease.
The Knitting Tips section is especially good .Phildar often uses slightly different techniques as opposed to UK/USA knitting instructions and they create a more RTW look to the knits .
They are traditionally in the pattern section of the books.Now online with great illustrations.

Great yarn catalogue with fiber content , metrage and tension swatches.

There is a metric to imperial needles and hooks conversion

?Minuses
There are only a few of the pattern books translated to English .This A/W four books so far out of the nine seasonal offerings.

The English version books cost twice as much as the French.

I have some older Phildar books with English pattern sections or English translation inserts and they are wide off the mark.
The best features and strength of Phildar French patterns were lost

The modular pattern instructions.
The shaping (decreases/increases) are altered.I dont want anyone to write out total number of stitches row by row for me.Just give me the Japanese type format please.
Cable stitch patterns reduced to gibberish ( what is Tw 4F?????)

The instructions for machine knitting appropriate designs were omitted.
I have learnt a lot about MK full fashioned shaping from Phildar patterns
Lace/Fairisle/Intarsia instructions for MK also absent.

Would be interested to know what the newer English version pattern books are like.But not by buying one in a hurry.

I will continue to knit in French , Dutch, German, Japanese

Parlez vous francais?

Sewing and Knitting AWOL

2006-10-09T06:29:00.000-06:00

Every member of my family here in London with me for few weeks now.
We are usually separated by three continents and seven cities.
No real sewing /knitting chez moi and no aplologies offered.

Normal blogging should resume soon( like this week)

Phildar France parlez Anglais
English content website offering some translated pattern books.

Septembr Crafting Slump??

2006-10-02T01:03:00.000-06:00

September went with very little crafting done.

I have finished the shaded squares bag sans lining.
Ene scarf is still in a crumbled heap waiting to be block.
Fabrics and notions enhancement.
Two knitting books .RYC and Debbie Bliss
Fabrics and notions enhancement.

Am I bothered??? Of course not.I have a whimsical attitude to my sewing , knitting etc.

I have snoop shopped the burberry lace trenchcoat .When you go with a brother who had just dropped a few thousand pounds ala Burberry , one suddenly finds the retail assistants very pliant.
Will write about this week from notes/illustrations scribbled in the exit taxi.
Have a great week

Burberry Lace Trenchcoat :TDF

2006-09-27T01:35:00.000-06:00

I dont usually do the high fashion , repro the look( Okay so I am telling porkies) What I mean is that after a sewing hiatus it is difficult to get back to my sewing speed.
The only item that has me tongue tied and gagged( speechless) this season is the above Burberry Lace Trenchcoat.

Specifications:courtsey net-a-porter
UK Price 2465 GBPounds( $4000 odd US)
Pearl ( also comes in black) double breasted trenchcoat with signature bone buttons
Scalloped hem , cuffs and front fastening, a pocket on each hip and visible silk jersey lining.Trench has button fastening cuffs and scalloped vent across shoulder and falls to knee
Fabric: Antique look lace. 60% cotton 20% rayon 20% polyamide
This trenchcoat comes from the Burberry Prosrum "Icons" collection .
Described as a beautiful classic that exudes femininity.
I see it worn as a dress ( reminiscent of a vintage Donna Karan Vogue pattern)
May have to go into town to try and get a closer look if not sold out.

Wonder if any sewists online will take on the challenge of making it?
Would make for an epic winter project.The closest would have to be the awe inspiring Chanel trenchcoat interpretation made by cyber sewing guru (permission granted , thanks fzxdoc)

Design details( seen only from pictures).
Antique Lace fabric
Raglan styling
Double breasted
Side seams
Diagonal welt pockets
Fabric belt with covered buckle
Scalloped edging along front , hem collar and cuffs
Advertorial version has a narrow black studded belt

Pattern Leads
Patrones #240 January 2006 has an original Burberry Prosrum trenchcoat that will be closest.
Will try and locate big 3/4 and Burda WOF possibilities.

Wish some sewist is planning to interpret the look

Snoop Shopping Armani Collezioni

2006-09-26T00:22:00.000-06:00

Virtual Snoop shopping online is great , but better still is doing in the flesh.
A couple of Sundays ago we went to town to celebrate a fellow sewist birthday , and some shopping treat as a present ( sorry not for me ) landed us in Armani Collezioni.
Quiet shop , malleable sales rep and a bunch of sewists made for inspirational heaven.
One may ask so what? or what is the big deal?
For me , it is validated the ability to sew. With the right combination of skills, research and attention to detail some of the jackets etc are so reproducible.
This is the high end RTW collection not the Couture Line Armani Prive.
Makes it laughable for so many sewists who parody themselves about not wanting to imitate RTW , opting for haute couture( aka dodgy home made crap) .Dream on.......................................

Impeccable tailoring.
Exceptional fit.
Scrumptious fabrics.

Colours
Muted neutrals, Ecru, Cream
Black, Browns , Charcoal Grey
Red, Blush

Fabrics/Fibres
Wool/acetate/silk /polyester
Wool/elastane
Cashmere
Silks satins , charmeuse
Chenille ,Velvets
Viscose Lycra for tees
Cotton Poplin

Shapes and Fabrics that caught my eyes:
Structured embossed , and chevron wool jersey jackets
Sweater knit type jackets( made of a luxury blend not acrylic)
Diagonal twills
Watercolour prints
Jacquards, Brocades
Abstract floral chenille fabrication
Men suiting pin stripes

Design details
Waist darts , nipped in waists often with flared hems
Wrap dolman cropped jackets
Subtle piping details on peplum designs.
Square necklines, portrait collars
Fitted jackets with corsage effect single button closures.
Chenille jackets with pleated contrast trim on collar and sleeve hems
Asymmetric fronts on jackets.
Soft ruffled jackets
Knit tops with tucked or ruched details ( viscose Lycra , velvets)

Without pulling apart the clothes( lest we got thrown out) we were able try on a lot of the clothes .Great fit on a variety of figure types except for lengths which would be individualised . The jackets lined with twill lining( viscose acetate blend) silk satin or charmeuse.
Linings were hand finished.
Unlined jackets had the darts graded and finished on each leg with fine overlocking.
Seams graded down and finished with overlocking.
Jersey suits had facings in silk satin, sleeves hem was also in silk satin and finished with blind hems.

Didnt spent too much time on the trousers ( dont wear them sorry) Okay so they are always left unfinished to allow for personalised adjustments.Straight legs , flat fronts, fly front zippers.Note I don't recall seeing any ultra skinny trousers.

How to recreate the looks.
The essence of the collection is the key.Get the fabrics spot on( this is not the time for bargain basement yucky mucky fabrics)
Get your tailoring skills up to par.
Threads Magazine had a great series on Armani jackets.
VPM often have patterns that emulate current look
Vogue 8302 is one in the books
Burda WOF in my opinion has the best selection of patterns that will give the closest interpretation can pull out a dozen jacket patterns that could be the starting point for many a style.
The brocade skirt featured above is a close cousin to a gold taffeta BWOF one.Not forgetting direct repros from issues past.
Be inspired.
Will I be making any jackets? Don't know and it wont even matter.

Knitting Bag progress and more fabby mail

2006-09-25T04:13:00.000-06:00

With some time off this week I was able to catch the postman early this morning.
Patrones # 247 September 2006 arrived.Thank you very much Marita ( also responsible for most of Patrones treasure trove)
Some stunning clothes feature in this issue , especially the jackets which are loaded with designer details .If you happen to be a chaff there are loads of designer names to feast on.
Still unable to make a full review of Patrones,I know that the skirts work for me , but the jackets yet untested except one jacket muslin.
Wearable muslins dont feature in my vocabulary.What is required to to trace a basic Patrones jacket pattern comparable to one from Burda WOF, overlay on top of my personalised BWOF sloper and make a few disposible muslins.
When???? sooooooooooooon.

Less than a week on , I have made some progress with the Debbie Abrahams bag.Intarsia and beaded section done , the back with two colour garter stripe in progress.
The bag is knitted in one piece, the sides will picked and knitted.Just a trazillion ends to finish and, handles in moss stitch and the lining to sew.

Ene scarf still whining , waiting to be blocked.

Suprise in the Mail and new project.

2006-09-21T10:47:00.000-06:00

I do love suprises.
A small brown envelope landed on the doormat, and out popped Simplicity pattern 4020
Delighted I was, thank you very much Sue.
I guess I missed that one( not really cuz I dont pay Simplicity patterns a lot of attention , except that they are actually much better and catching the trends quickly).
Tricot mesh/rayon lycra or wool knits????I need to get to the stash.

Rowan Yarns have a fabby Members only promo on until 22nd September 2006 on Debbie Abrahams kits for cushions and bags.
My little selection arrived two days ago and I started the Shaded square bag in the Coffee and Cream colourway.

Intermediate Knitting project using Cotton glace yarn with beading and decorative button panel
Making significant progress on my first proper Intarsia Kit.

To come
Snoop Shopping Armani Collezioni........................

Too busy to stop?

2006-09-18T01:03:00.001-06:00

Have been too busy to stop.Ene's scarf is done.Just the little matter of blocking to deal with.
Whilst I'm unable to get down to some real sewing(jackets, suits ) the stash continues to grow

Thanks to Marita,Sue & Tini for new sewing magazines and suprises , Material World for yet more fabrics , and JLewis and Liberty knitting books and yarn.

Need to do some catch up posts

Project : Phildar #429 16-25 Tendances Cardi

2006-09-10T07:08:00.000-06:00

Whilst I get on with planning autumn sewing and knitting projects( aka doing SFA) I will continue to upload knitting and sewing FOs

Project Details
Phildar #429 16-25 Tendances Printemps/Ete 2005
Original Yarn: Coton Ete 100% Cotton
Sub Yarn: Gedifra Wellness 50% Cotton 50% Acrylic
Needles: Addi Circular Needles
Mods: Knitted about 5 cm longer

The jacket is knit in one piece, stitches put on hold for shaping and front opening.

Sleeves with mesh lace then ribbing all the way.
Great little project , a slightly grown up version of the shrug or coverall.
I love knits with interesting construction and details.
Truthfully there is only so much bland boring stocking stitch designs one can knit.Me I relegate those to my knitting slaves.

MK Project:Blissful Jacket Interweave Knits Fall 2005

2006-09-10T06:30:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Pattern: Blissful Jacket Interweave Knits Fall 2005
Designer: Debbie Bliss
Yarn: Specified Debbie Bliss Aran Tweed, contrast is Debbie Bliss Merino Aran
MachineKnit: KH260 Brother Chunky 9mm machine
Design Specs/Mods:
The jacket was knit on the chunky/bulky knitting machine.
Provisional cast and the garter stitch hem was hand knitted at the end.
The jacket had full fashioned internal dart shaping on the back body piece only.Process required wholesale transfer of stitches every few rows with the risk of dropping stitches( not too bad on the chunky knitting machine).A chunky garter bar would have been very useful but very expensive and difficult to find.I tried the standard gauge garter bar but didnt work.
The garter button bands was part of the front pieces, I didnt want to have to seam handknitted garter strips at the end , so I cast on with the ribber in place.I was then able to transfer the small number of stitches every row from front to back bed and vice versa.
Sounds tedious but beats hand knitting by saving a few weeks.

The lapel and collar was the only part of design that was a bit naff.The edges look unfinshed and unruly.What would I do the next time?Not sure but probably borrow a tip or two from Phildar.

Contrast yarn threaded through once garment finished.The back has dart shaping and the instructions wasn't helpful, so I just winged it.

The jacket took a couple of evenings to knit on KM , then almost four weeks to seam and embellish.
Great looking garment,the yarn is too scratchy and rustic for me and is best used as outer wear not next to skin.

Conclusions
Will I make again?Possibly but without the embellishments.The shoulder needs refining and the front would also benefit from inernal dart shaping.
For use of stash yarn and ease of construction/knitting it was well worth my time.
However Phildar has much nice Chanelesque jackets.

New Knitting project: Ene Shawl from Scarf Style book

2006-09-08T14:58:00.000-06:00

Started a new knitting small project on Monday ( as in will take a long time to complete)
Ene Shawl Pattern by Nancy Bush
Source:Scarf Style by Interweave Press
Yarn: Coned 2/20 fine lace weight Cashmere ,Mohair and Nylon blend.
Killer wispy filifine yarn that doesnt lend to frogging.
Despite casting on 375 stitches , have made progress in only 5 days.

The BWOF 8/2006 Crochet bag is moving slowly.Done with the body piece ,the shell band still to crochet.Have sourced some Ultrasuede for handles and tabs.Still waiting for pesky D rings.
Off to plan a fiberfest weekend

August Sewing Projects Overview

2006-09-05T07:23:00.000-06:00

These are my August 2006 sewing projects.
I will be posting on individual projects as soon as time permits.
Blogger is a real pain in the putatie with lost posts, pictures not uploading

Project: Louis Vuitton skirt Patrones 241

2006-09-05T06:15:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Pattern: Patrones 241 # 53 skirt pattern
Design Details:Linen with lycra cut on the bias .Full lining with tulle attached .
Fabric Used: Black linen with elastane.Lining was black bemberg cut on the bias.
Tulle was a soft lingerie weight. Used two layers to add oomph.Didnt want any scratchy type fairy / ballerina nylon tulle.The mesh tulle is self embroidered with roses.

Pattern Mods/Commentary.
Centre front and back seams with CB invisible zipper.
Spanish pattern instructions.Terse and terse and terse............... No frills no thrills NADA
Only modification was that I didnt lay my stretch fabric on the bias because it counterbalanced the elasticity.
The skirt draft and sloper measurements are just perfect for my figure type( small waist for hips and hourglass type figure.)
Sepia effect on above pic just because I liked it.
Hem detail.Sorry I have had to mess up the pictures to enable any details to show up.
Embroidered tulle
I have worn the skirt quite a bit since making it.I may make a winter version in wool with printed tricot mesh knit instead of tulle.

Patrones are great for high fashion kicky designs.I am not so swayed by the designer names as much as the design elements as seen in RTW garments .
Their skirt sloper is a better draft than BWOF for me , and I have since made a few other skirts.If only Blogger will let me upload more pictures per post

The instructions leave a lot to be desired ,with no garment measurements , no notion lists
You will need Bletchley type decoding skills to work out where linings and interfacings are required.OR just ditch the whole instructions malarky and freewheel away.
I was able to treanslate most with little external help( latin/italian lessons were not a waste Dad).
The drafting may have errors( allegedly) so onw would ideally walk the pattern pieces.Ask me how I know,of course by making a wadder we are not even going to talk about.

Review: Sewing Machine sites

2006-09-01T01:52:00.000-06:00

Not one I made earlier.

Sewing machines come in all shapes sizes and specifications.Some can practically sing and dance whilst others like my babe above was once the fairest of them all , but no more.But she help me churn out great togs with a bit of TLC

Seriously how often do you visit the sewing machine official sites? Except for updates, search for manuals or when something has gone horribly wrong with the SM.
I am not endorsing any brands or websites but I have found over the last few years jewels hidden amongst the many adverts latest gizmos updates , even recalls.
The bag above is made( not by me) with a general middle of the road machine with no embroidery modules.The bag download as an example includes templates for pattern and clear instructions possible on most non specialist sewing machines.

Lets dig beyond the front page
Viking Husqvarna
Sewing Room:Great animated lessons for beginner , also refresher for veterans
Sewing Projects:Great projects for clothes , bags ( such as the one above) home dec items , toys .Alot of the projects although for VH can be used by other makes
Monthly Free Projects: Instructions and downloads for different projects themed with a free machine embroidery design.Great nifty ideas.Recently made a needle case for keeping hand sewing needles.
Accessories Catalogue and Search: lists them with pictures. Demo videos and help brochures to view and download
Other language sites apart from English also available

Bernina Global Site
Bernina USA
Need to register to download designs , free registration.Access to all areas including forums
Sewing Studio: Portal to other sites
Basic Training: Primer on sewing with threads, basic stitches ,essential sewing guide
Claire Shaeffer Feet Project: Great find , the series has twelve lessons so far.Using the speciality feet Claire Shaeffer has written projects for sewing clothes ( including Vogue patterns)mainly.Excellent set of topics with tips and ideas on using speciality feet.The series is worth downloading as the contents will be useful for machine other than Bernina.( i dont own a bernina but great for some of my speciality sewing machine feet)
Embroidery Downloads
Online Classes: Topics on sewing quilting embroidery. There is an excellent class on bindings and a great primer on Sergers/Overlockers and how to manage and troubleshoot tension problems.

Hope you will find info to help get more out the sewing machines.
More later.......

Phildar Rules( sometimes)

2006-08-28T14:38:00.000-06:00

Phildar Automne Tendances #456 really rocks ,the first five designs are from the new book , and there are a few more I really like.Better still about 30% of the designs are suitable for machine knitting.

Okay so one need to remain patriotic , Rowan #40 finally hit the doormat.Better issue than the last two but not quite there.Still the same glitchy pattern format written by monkeys or as quoted on the web "written by ferrets".
Take Dew , sassy design last on second row , imagine lace&cable design repeat worked right to the edge without selvedge stitches.Rowan pretty please talk nicely to your continental pals (Phildar, Lana Grossa, GGH , Filati, Online etc) and ask how to write intuitive patterns.

Sewing up a truck load of wacky print rayon lycra tees/tops.Will post pictures soon

Silver Reed HK160 Knitting Projects

2006-08-24T16:11:00.000-06:00

A couple of fusion knitting projects from this summer( Fusion Knitting a term used to describe combined machine and hand knitting)

Salina from Rowan Vintage Style
Original done in Felted tweed
Sub yarn: Paton Washed Haze DK cotton acrylic yarn
MK on HK160
Moss stitch hem ,cuffs and lapel handknit
Purchased skirt.

Cardigan from OOP Jaeger DK book
Yarn: Queensland Cotolino( cotton linen blend) absolutely yummy yarn to wear.Light and drapey.Knitting this yarn by hand was a toughie akin to knitting parcel twine
MK on HK160 a 6mm plastic bed knitting machine with 18 stitch punchcard patterning.This is the flatbed version of the covet worthy MK70 KM .Ideal for those DK Dale of Norway type fairisle knits
Garter edging on hems picked up from provisional cast /border picked and hand knit

The machine knit portions were done in no time at all. Imagine knitting a pair of sleeves in under one hour*********fabby

I must do my little blog piece on me , my knitting machines and my views about the current state of machine knitting as a craft.

I am still oogling my recent haul of magazines, amid sewing up tees/skirts to bridge the seasons.
Not making any firm plans for autumn sewing and knitting yet.

Bumper Package of crafting goodies

2006-08-22T07:13:00.000-06:00

A very big thank you and loads of cyberhugs to Tini for sending me the treasure trove of fabby sewing and knitting magazines.
and a tinsy winsycheer for deutsche poste and royal mail for not fluffing it the second time around( dont wanna know)

These make up for Blogger messing me about , tried a couple of days running to post and upload pictures.
Off to enjoy the haul.Still waiting for Rowan #40 and Vogue Knitting magazines ......................pssshhhhhhhhh and the next Phildar.

Swallowtail Shawl Interweave Knits Fall 2006

2006-08-17T00:08:00.000-06:00

Project
Swallowtail Shawl
Designer: Evelyn Clark
Interweave Knits Fall 2006
Yarn: Shetland 2/8 wool( 250 metres/50gms)
Colour : Natural
Needles: Inox Bamboo 4mm
Weight: 100gms
Width span 163 cm( 64 inches)
Length 73 cm( 29 inches)

Commentary
No pattern modifications at all. The nupps were a bit tricky for the first row ,imagine yanking 4ply yarn with a fine 0.6mm crochet hook.Had I carried on like that it would have made for painful knitting.
Found the P5tog was easier to do by knitting the nupps with slack ,the rest of the charts ala nupps went smoothly .It was the pesky yarn over after the P5tog that tortured me ( guess she always wanted to be the sixth strand..............silly)

Excellent pattern , fully charted , would make a great beginner lace knitting project.
Knitted within a week , despite my plans to just nibble along.
The finished dimension is just perfect for wearing with suits , compact and still has the scrunchability factor.
Recommended

sshhhhh finished project

2006-08-14T03:32:00.000-06:00

Delicious Delights:Burda WOF Lingerie Patterns

2006-08-12T15:00:00.000-06:00

When in between seasons or having project downtimel , I tend to sew or knit easy and fast items.
Like scarves, shawls or gloves and now delicious lingerie delights.
Last year I bought loads of end pieces , fabrics , lingerie findings from a major lingerie manufacturer's sample room , to make shapewear.There was a lot of soft stretch satin ( also known as mirror satin) in optic white but snags readily.Whilst it isnt decadent stretch silk satin/georgette/charmeuse indicated in the Burda patterns.( Clearly the designers haus Burda have no concept of cost) it will just have to do.

I have tried Kwik Sew knickers patterns in the past ............the results just too nasty to describe, I traced yet another KS pattern from the Sewing Lingerie book master patterns, with pretty similar results.It need so much to fix that buying RTW remains a more sensible option.
However n the last five or so years Burda WOF( there are bodysuits , swimwear and lingerie in my older Burda but they werent dug out for this exercise) has come out with lingerie ensemble pattern , so I pulled the last three issues with these patterns and traced off a trio.

A few sessions later , on my Husqvarna Orchidea

Burda 12/2005 #127 & #128
Burda 12/2004 #136

They all look and fit like high end RTW undies(unlike the KS old granny type ............)
The undergusset( cr..t..c..h) on any of them has no elastic making for more comfortable wear.

#136 the boyshort pattern is a major scoop , the pattern pieces are shaped as modified rectangles with a slit made in the centre front and back to attach the gusset like the keyhole sleeve placket.
The fit is exceptional , and although I dont wear trousers they can be modified to fit like brazilian hipster right up to high cut boyshorts.
The elastic is sewn and look unobtrusive making it a good choice for eliminating the dreaded VPL
Closest pattern to this style is the discontinued Jalie #2329 but much nicer.
Only minus is that although the elastic width and length is listed in the notions , one has to deduce the type and length for each component part.

Design modification:
Line gusset with cotton( not self fabric as pattern indicated)
Omit the lace top edging and use just lingerie elastic
Work in lightweight satin powerstretch for shape and control.
Tactel microfibre for no cling effect with close fitting garments.

The blue print one in the picture is the wretched KS one.
Need to locate some jacquard dye and make a few more in different colours

Project:Ecru Linen Jacket & Skirt

2006-08-12T06:48:00.000-06:00

Ecru /Stone Linen Ensemble
Jacket Pattern: Burda 8905
Fitted unlined denim style jacket with centre back seam , yoke and forward shoulder seam.Two piece sleeve and chest pockets with tabs.
Skirt Pattern: Vogue DKNY #2895
Bias panelled flared skirt with side pockets,invisible back zipper closure and edgestitched and topstitched design trim
Knit Top Pattern: New Look #6149 view B
V neck knit top with two piece raglan sleeves
Design Mods/Commentary

The jacket came out better than I had thought .Forget the klutzy pictures , the fit is perfect ( okay so I forgot to decrease the extra in the waist from doing a FBA ) which I discovered after finishing , not an issue for a casual jacket.
My usual alterations were made( too boring to list and design needed a straight forward princess seam FBA).I omitted the pockets and tabs, left out the lower hip bands and extended the length by 3 inches.
The sleeves are really well drafted , unlike most unlined jackets/tops with one piece sleeve that feels sloppy.Sleeve head eased in effortlessly.
Burda Easy Sewing from circa 2004 has an almost identical jacket done in Felted wool in a neat deconstructed way.
The pattern unfortunately is OOP but Burda WOF has variations in back issues.
Excellent version of the Jeans Jacket that is less boxy and a more fitted sleek look
Interesting tidbits , whilst waiting for ******Blogger to upload the pictures , I surfed to check reviews on the said jacket .Different outcomes , confirms my views about reviews.

Used brass antique type buttons , dumped the idea of jean style poppa buttons , would have been too heavy

The skirt had been completed a couple of weeks ago.Great low rise waist style.Skirt sits about 3 inches below my waist .If one fluctuates in the weight/waist department , this style may not be a good choice, the risk of the waist sliding down to give the urban version of brickie's rear is high.
Left out the side pockets , fudged the side pocket section to the front skirt piece to maintain the style lines .I dont do curvy hips in bias skirt with pocket gaposis.( The best clue to an ill fitting skirt)
Loads of edgestitching and topstitching.Machine edgestitching foot was very handy.
Tried a few topstitching threads, but poor match for the fabric.Used matching thread with the triple straight stitch.
Top is done in print rayon lycra blend.This is one of the few patterns I have made almost very season since I bought it. Curvy fitted with a not too low V neck ( great style for the curvier/ and not so curvy lady)It is still in the books
Once tweaked and customised it is good to go.

sssssshhhhhh.....New Knitting WIP

2006-08-08T03:59:00.000-06:00

Stretch Lining for Louis Vuitton skirt?

2006-08-07T04:38:00.000-06:00

I am on a roll making some early transeasonal skirts( going somewhere hot in September so cottons , linens are still on the menu)
Tha above skirt from Patrones #241 February 2006 calls for linen with lycra elasthane cut on the bias(?overkill) and has a lining to which the tulle fringe is attached.
Have cut out the pattern in black linen with lycra, on the straight grain as my fabric has the most stretch on that grain , no sausage effect thank you very much.

Lining options
I am sure the issue of lining material for stretch woven fabrics is oft topical , there are lots of views and opinions , my choices are based on 10 yrs of sewing suits/skirts in woven with lycra fabrics.
1. Acetate/Cupro elasthane blend.
The best option if one is able to locate it.Usually used by the high end RTW designer outfits
John Lewis plc Oxford Street/MaCulloch&Wallis have stocked it in the past.Cost around 7-8GBPounds/metre
Comes in limited colours( neutral) unless from a jobber.
Can be hand and machine washed as well as drycleaned , doesnt tolerate hot iron.I have used regularly for the last 8 years without any major mishap.
Softens with wear but doesnt shred or disintergrate
2.Polyester Elasthane.
I have no personal experience
3.Stretch Silk Satin/Charmeuse/Chiffon
Depending on the weight of the outer garment
Can be expensive but well worth it for a major project.Often able to source rayon or poly stretch fabrics as sub
4. Stretch Tricot
Hot , clingy and yucky???
5.Anti static stretch microfibre/ Tactel
Great if you can source it.Excellent choice also for body conscious knits
6.Regular( Acetate/Ambiance)lining cut slightly bigger
Swishy , uncomfortable and lining often disintegrate before skirt/trousers.May work for jackets.I have only tried this methods on skirts and wasnt happy at all.
7.Regular( Acetate/ Ambiance) lining cut on the bias.
Stumbled on this option a few yrs ago when I made a Donna Karan or DKNY Vogue pattern.(OOP pattern in loft , would pull out if requested)
The jacket was cut on the bias from wool garbadine and acetate twill lining also cut on that grain.Great jacket fit and comfortable to wear, as a result I have used this options repeatedly since.
Clearly if one used Ambiance /Bemberg lining , the costs may well escalate sharply

What is not an option by me is using regular woven lining as is.The argument often given is that garments made in woven lycra shouldnt be made too tight and have to use the stretch factor for ease and fit.
Woven lycra fabrics are best suited for close fitting ( not TIGHT) clothes.The stretch contributes nothing to the ease but make the garment more comfortable to wear .Like the fitted tapered skirt or the sheath dress , for the oh so yummy shimmy effect

Ok, what did I do ?I have got acetate/cupro lycra lining ( dwindling supply) but as the skirt is whimsical and may not get all that much wear I decided to use Ambiance lining cut on the bias.
Disclaimer: It came from a designer factory closing down sale , so cost me less than going out to buy twill/acetate lining.

I wonder what other sewers use?

Project:Phildar Printemps Tendances #443 Style 33

2006-08-03T16:51:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Pattern:Phildar Printemp Tendances 2006 Style 33
Veste cintree col tailleur( Tailored Jacket)
Yarn: Original Phildar Aviso 50% Coton 50% Acrylic
Substitute used: Online Linie Cora 50% Wool 50% Acrylic
Needles:Machine Knit on Brother Chunky Knitting Machine 9mm except front lower curved ribbing, which was hand knit at end with sz 5mm needles.

Commentary:
Knitted from original French instructions.
Since French Phildar( not the English lost in translation) are written in a modular way it is easy to change gauge and make design alterations.
The schematic also makes charting for the Knit Leader/Knit Radar easy.
Phildar patterns are also written for the Knitting machines , either standard gauge up to 5mm (QuicPhil or Mini Maille) or their Chunky 9mm( Big Phil or MaxiMaille).Some of the chunky knits work on Japanese Knitting machines with the ribber.
Matched the gauge , machine shortrow done at bust region to add to front waist length .The sleeves were shortened.
Crochet button loops and horn buttons used.

The lapel consist of 1x1 rib with a stitch being transformed and the rib reestablished each row.This is a great way of shaping shawl collars /lapels.Oft used by Kim Hargreaves in Rowan patterns and there are good explanations in the Vogue Knitting Book as well as Katherina Buss As per normal Phildar style , there were written instructions as well a fully annotated chart.Machine Knitter will realise I must be a newbie since the stitches have to be hand manipulated for every single row.So what if it was for about 50 rows? It was well worth the hassle , took an hour of concentration , but since the rest of the jacket took no more than 3 hours total knitting time.............there was no contest.
The jacket would have taken at least 3-4 weeks to hand knit

Great style , but since it was done in aran weight knitted to a tighter tension I felt it would be too warm for summer only , and would serve me better as a transeasonal garment hence the yarn sub( okay and the busload of Linie yarn in the closet.
Recommended.

Burda WOF August 2006 Crochet Bag Prototype

2006-08-03T15:05:00.000-06:00

The bag muslin/prototype is done.
I wasn't planning to make the bag yet , just an enlarged swatch to understand the shell stitch pattern and get back to crochet .A few sessions later and a smaller version was made.

Details
Yarn: King Cole Fashion Casual 50%Viscose 50% Acrylic
Crochet Hook: 4mm
Tension: ?????
Lining : Silk Linen Home Dec weight fabric
Findings: Fabric as above used for straps bands and strap covers.D rings, metal slides( saving my nice buckles for the next bag) and electrical cable for bag handle.

Commentary:
Easy project using just double crochet(US single crochet) for body piece and shell pattern for bag band.The resulting fabric is dense and quite substantial.
Since I didnt use the right yarn weight the bag is about 8cm narrower but the same finished height as quoted .As a result I didnt fold at lower sides to create the gusset and used only one instead of two tucks at top of bag piece.
The bag is lined to the level of the bag band seam.
Sewers online raised the point that there was yarn strain at the seamline on the Burda WOF photographed version.

The good news is that no sexy or clever fix is required.The original was probably seamed with a crochet hook.Using a tapestry needle and backstitch seaming give a secure and stable join.
The Burda instructions were excellent and complete , going carefully through the handle/buckle and loop construction.
I especially loved the use of electrical cable as a finding for the bag handle.Gives a more substantial feel to them than cording would.Please remember to cover the cut ends with masking electrical tape.
The bag handle straps were fluted.If using woven , best to cut them on the bias.
It was a little tricky sewing the tabs on strechy metchy crochet portion.I didnt want to place small tabs on the wrong side.An option for further renditions would be to line the bag band shy of the shell edging and that will enclose any reinforcing tabs.Would also enable use of magnetic snaps instead of sew on snaps if desired

Observations:
I dont have bag making books and looked up two articles.
Taunton Threads Number 124.
May 2006.Unhelpful article which just listed various bag hardware and list of US suppliers.Great blown up pictures but no technical information on any group of hardware listed.So what???????I have issues with current Threads offering , but not here to whine.
Vogue Patterns Magazine June 2005.
Excellent synopsis on Handbags.Great for someone like me with bulging sewing bookcase and not sure about making loads of bags.Great pictures of the cording method for leather as in the Burda pattern.Also good and clear info on adding inner pockets, internal zipper and mobile phone holder.The magazine sold as Sewing Today featuring Vogue Patterns for UK/Europe.

Conclusion:
I have started collecting all the bits for the first keeper bag( Incidentally the prototype has been stolen/napped by a younger niece)
Using a wool/cashmere /nylon aran weight yarn.Lining will be silk twill or some coveted Aquascutum spot proof lining.I need to locate some leather/pleather/ultrasuede for straps and handle ( Brick Lane beckons).But will hold off until September.
Great project that makes it easier to reproduce other designer crochet/knitted bags.
Next on my list is the Valentino Cable cashmere bag( when I can settle down to chart the cables)

Style Options:
Rowan/Elan Denim yarn with tan leather with topstitching
Denim type yarn with print /plain denim fabrics
Preferred choice of wool/cotton/metallic yarns
Ribbon Yarn/Leather Thonging( Marita we know you have expensive taste)
Nylon Crochet cord ( Sac bags)

Burda WOF Crochet Bag Project( Fauxgamo Bag)

2006-08-01T15:22:00.000-06:00

I spied a bag when the Burda WOF /2006 went up and quickly put the crochet bag on my to do list
Original post

Then Marita K , fashiondivista (Fashionista/Diva) extraordinaire unearthed the above picture.Bag in the picture above is by Salvatore Ferragamo from a previous season.I have searched online for other images but lucked out , but that is no biggie as the Burda WOF bag has all the elements to make a homage version painlessly.
Got some el cheapo acrylic and viscose blend yarn and set to swatch .Knitting I am confident with my skills by with Crochet I am still a "baby hooker" so to speak.A little while later I had the bag main piece and the band done.Since my yarn was not doubled the width came out narrower but was able to compensate for length.This sample will be smaller
I will complete the bag and use as a prototype.Got some lining , metal findings , even electrical cable for straps, need some D rings and a quiet spell to decode the sewing portion of instructions Project Details
Designer Lined Crochet Bag
Pattern: Burda WOF August 2006 #138
Designer Homage:Salvatore Ferragamo Crochet bag circa 2004/2005
Original yarn: Junghans Harmonie
Notes: On completion

Burda WOF August 2006 is here

2006-07-30T17:45:00.000-06:00

Burda WOF August 2006 is here and packed with lots to trace out and sew.Even though the temps are still soaring there are a few things that are calling out to be made ASAP.Already traced out a flippy skirt for starters , the crochet bag needs to be swatched , toying with a few options as leather pieces to coordinate unknown yarn colour is proving difficult.More on crochet bag project in separate entry.

There is a lot of glitz going on.1980's revival , gold buttons and all. I absolutely love the fabric bag in the above layout So very doable in oriental silks or even damasks and brocade .The embroidered skirt is also going into my inspiration folder.
The bad news is the back of the magazine highlights September preview, so far looks like going from one top ten stellar editions of Burda WOF to the worst.Babushkas, some Heidi type dirndl number.Seriously hope the other designs yet unseen will compensate.
The inside cover has a preview for the Burda WOF Plus Edition Autumn/Winter 2005/2006 , an issue I dont normally get , patterns need to be graded down and endlessly tweaked to get a reasonable fit ,but the styles look very nice and there will be a workshop on the Full Bust Alterations/Adjustments(FBA).
One wonder if it will be as good as the 1997 Burda WOF.Curious to see if they shed light on what Bust Cup size the Plus range sloper is based on.

The Ecru linen denim type jacket is almost done.I am in love , the sleeve is so fabby witha nice shape and eased effortlessly.Going to my Hall of Fame of pattern pieces to save.This is a notebook of exceptional pattern pieces , sleeves armscye, details , welts that work.Great for reproducing or"knocking off' " RTW
Need to decide whether to use snaps, or buttonholes and gilt/brass type buttons.

Finished Phildar #448 Bustier Top

2006-07-29T01:22:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Pattern: Phildar #448 Special Twenty 2006 Pattern 10 Bustier

Yarn: No label Rowan Handknit Cotton sub for Coton 4

Mods/Commentary:
Quick summer project.Fitted corset type tank/shell.Rib pattern with eyelet details.
Difficult to do a FBA and lower the empire line without spoiling the dewsign lines .If knitted as specified the horizontal portion of design will start bang on the bustpoint area for me .
I knitted a smaller size for the back to the front to give some shimmy , extended the horizontal design to four pattern repeat.I kept the lower rib section the same as I wasnt going for the belly baring look.
One may need to shorten the rib area accordingly to keep full length unchanged if desired.
Squared out the scooped neckline and made the straps wider by charting on graph paper
Finished with crochet edge with picot trim.This may be tricky in the original yarn which is quite robust.
Great French Phildar instructions with charts , stitch pattern definition and schematics.

Conclusions:
Worn already but will need to dye to muted colour to get more use out of it
I wont be making again , too many fabby Phildar patterns to try.

Sewing in the Storm

2006-07-27T16:04:00.000-06:00

Thunderstorm evening , at least temps are dropping.
Sewing continues chez moi
The DKNY skirt is done.
Love it , the skirt equivalent of low rise trousers.
The jacket is too formal for what I need( too similar to my proper work summer suit)
So decided on the Burda jacket modified to use as a shirt. Some tweaking needed, I think the FBA curve might be a smidge too much.Will lose the lower band , replace with topstiched hem and denim type poppas for closure.
Cut and half sewn.
Need to cut out a few more bits, too much inspirational stuff flying out from cyber sewing sites.
Great news is that some of the togs are from Burda WOF , so a mini marathon sewing weekend whilst I wait for the sensational August 2006 issue.

Project::Vogue # 2789 Ann Klein Shirt

2006-07-25T10:37:00.000-06:00

Projects just tumbling out of the work basket.The knitting ones uploaded , and which I will continue to add have been done in the last year or so.
My leave of absence from sewing was spent knitting and crocheting.
I try not to have more than one big and maybe one smaller project on the needle.

My sewing is another story entirely.I have a basket filled with several projects , already cut ,matching symbols marked or thread traced with appropriate lining and or interfacing waiting for me to get to them.
I know I wont make the best blogger , my journal is in my head.With a photographic memory I am able to remember minute details effortlessly, and not sure the place of web documentation.
But how will DS and co know what I have been crafting at?
I wont make the type of web logger that is able /willing take a zillion pictures and write tomes on choosing projects , patterns , dancing around fabrics choices and techniques through the production stage.

I process and prance around mentally what the next sewing project will be or not.Easy to jettison any dodgy ideas, after all I have a virtual sewing paradise chez moi what with bundles of luscious fabrics( stashed in every available space), designer notions , piles of Burda WOF , hard to find/covet worthy OOP Vogue designer patterns.
By the time I get to the sewing machine , all in theory is ready to roll.
Hot off the Viking Orchidea is this functional shirt.
14 buttonholes held me back for a week or so,guess it isnt piping hot eh?

Project Details
Pattern : Vogue Anne Klein # 2789 OOP
Fabric: Stone Cotton /Elasthane shirting.
Mods/Commentary:
Semi fitted shirt with collar and collar stand , upper front extending into tie ends, long sleeves with buttoned cuffs.
Needed to do a FBA(full bust alteration) , shorten the upper back length.
Fairly straight forward instructions if you have your shirtmaking skills honed.
Glitchy bit where the front end ties are folded , mine are suspect.
14 buttonholes that took forever ......................Yikes. and then pesky 13mm buttons to sew by hand.

Conclusions:
Great shirt , interesting enough , not many pattern pieces to trim or cut .Came out about the same time as an OOP Donna Karan with the twist tie front and almost as nice.
Better suited to fabric that doesnt crease( like my fav summer fibre linen as ironing isnt fun.
I need a crash revision course on shirtmaking.Come autumn and I will clear some time for the David Coffin book and video.
Twist ( pun intentional) on the classic shirt.
Will make again

Project: Phildar Irlandais # 417 Style 02

2006-07-24T17:17:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Phildar Irlandais Book # 417 Style 02
Yarn:
Phildar Oxygene colour Ardoise
40% Acrylic, 35% Chlorofibre , 25% Wool
Mods/Commentary:
No pattern modification.
As with the French language editions , the pattern instructions, schematics and charts were spot on.All the stitch patterns are explained long hand , the charts with full glossary.
Oxygene is an unusual yarn, I almost gave up the project at the beginning.It had the tactile effect of cotton wool or crushed marshmallow , but since yarn was bought full price on day jaunt to Phildar in Calais, persisted and was soon richly rewarded.
Excellent stitch definition , great for cbles, ribbing etc.The sweater photographed is 2yrs old and has been in th washing machine without any problems.No pilling at all.
The finished garment is light to wear and non plasticky.To boot the yarn has some antibacterial component the life of the garment.
One yarn to stash and use again.
I have three of the Phildar Irlandais pattern books , and there will be another project this autumn

Close up showing ribbing , cables and lace stitch pattern

Project: Phildar Hiver #416 "Potiron" Sweater

2006-07-24T11:31:00.000-06:00

Project Details
Pattern: Phildar Automne/Hiver # 416 Style 30

Yarn: Bergere de France Sport as sub for Phildar Quietude.
Yarn is 50% Wool 50% Acrylic shade Corrida.Same fiber compostion as the original yarn.

Mods/Commentary:
Was able to get the guage so real fudging required.
Intricate cable design with at least 4 different panels worked over different number of rows worked at the same time.
But excellent Phildar chart and schematics.Great instructions if you can knit in French.
Unable ( or rather unwilling to contemplate short rows) to add to front bust length , so I knit the back in one size smaller to give shimmy room.
There was a French Knitalong when the magazine came out.
Love the swater loads

Burda WOF 8/2006 Sneak peek

2006-07-20T06:42:00.000-06:00

I had a post on the Vogue Knitting Autumn preview to do( blooger gobbled it up last night) caught a glimpse of the upcoming Burda WOF 8/2006.......................... and got side tracked.
Just a quick peek of my first Autumn project.

Project : Vogue Pattern 7880 Skirt

2006-07-16T17:25:00.000-06:00

Project Details

Pattern : Vogue 7880 View C

Fabric: Tobacco Solibati Linen

Mods/Commentary
No modifications.One of the best Vogue skirt patterns, in the same genre as the Individualists/Attitudes range.
Multiple pattern pieces , that needs careful marking and tagging as the pieces all looked similar.
Top portion is lined , I used irridescent tobacco/blue acetate /rayon lining fabrics.
Not easy to work out the fit until the skirt is practically done.
Really bad attempt at inserting a lapped zipper , which was ripped out and replaced with an invisible one( sleek and streamlined)
Since my fabric is heavier ( but it soften and become drapey with wear ) I opted for the topstich/mitre edges at 15mm hem allowances .The hem treatment instructions is best suited for sheers and semi sheers.

One that will go into my must keep pattern collection.

Burda WOF 7/2006 Style #121 Carmen Top

2006-07-13T03:50:00.000-06:00

One of my easy tops in the WIP basket.But not as easy as I had hoped as I hit a major stumble.
Pattern specs:
Burda WOF 7/2006 Style # 121 described as jersey top with carmen neckline and short raglan sleeves, which will be finished in an hour
Fabric: Novelty seersucker effect rayon jersey knit.
The pattern was traced and fixed( FBA ,length added)
Would have been sewn in the prescribed time or less, decided to try to try the top on sans neckline finish.Yikes, gaposis/saggyitis galore

Backtracking the magazine picture of the finished garment had all the clues.Tastefully arranged pose , but look closely and you can see the top would have dropped off the model if she dared move.The long sleeved version in the magazine also has the same glitch.

On me when the back is pinned/darted out( in reality scrunched up) the top grazes (hugs) my shoulders just fine.The problem with a style like this is that if not custom drafted there will be no support from which the shoulder frames the neckline, without some reduction in total circumference by any one of several options.

Back view showing the saggy rubbish( with construction thread).
The neckline didnt stretch out as I rechecked the measurements against the pattern pieces.

Possible solutions :
1.Create darts in the shoulders.
2.Elasticize the neckline.
3.Ease with Vilene bias shaping tape.This might affect the elasticity of the neckline.
All I have worked out is the need to shorten and pull in the neckline.By what sort of dimension I havent got a clue.
I will consult Joseph-Armstrong Pattern Making reference book and try and catch a few rules on the drafting of carmen type tops .I suspect it has to do with dart suppression, overlaps and watnots( like drafting bustier type outfits)
I will try the second option out.I still have some scraps and will use my lingerie books and a variety of elastic finishes.
Foldover elastic could work but might clash with the fabric self pattern.
Watch this space.

WIP:Knitting pile of shame?

2006-07-12T13:33:00.000-06:00

Words just dont cut it.Just a pile of unfinished knitting.
The blue Adrienne Vittadini lace cardi was started and finished in january 2006( as a get organised for transitional wear), just cant get round to casting the 500 or so stitches that triplicates to make front ruffles.
The wretched cardi has already been blocked and seamed together.
Phildar summer corset top.Seams to side and a dip in some dye vat to erase that soleil brightness.
And I am already swatching the Phildar Autumn selection.

Frenzied Summer Sewing Part1

2006-07-11T17:19:00.000-06:00

I have been squirelling away at various projects.
I dont sew with a SWAP (SWAP sewing with a plan.Coined from original article in Australian stitches.The concept is to create a wardrobe of co-ordinating , extending range of garment pieces in colurs and styles that blend and work together as a capsule)in mind , but because of the way I buy or rather stash fabrics, they tend to be in the colours that I wear.
Any unusual colours would only be bought if there are co=ordinates to go with them , or if the zebra will highlight or complement stash.( Make any sense????)

Above DKNY pattern have cut the skirt in a stunning quality ecru italian linen , there is 1.7 metres left to make a jacket , maybe from Burda.The matching jacket pattern is nice but I am not in the mood for precision sewing.Part of the beauty is the yards of topstitching to do.
Actually I lie....................... despite having too many spools of thread I have tried to get a perfect match for possible topstitching with no joy.One of my few resolutions was to use only what I have indoors

I am trying out some Patrones designs , including the above skirt by Morgan.The original is done in silk satin , but I am not confident about the outcome to risk any of my silks.
I am using some cotton/linen/poly lycra blend.

The pattern pieces are a bit different to Burda WOF, but will comments until the end of projects.
A few easy Rayon/lycra and cotton/lycra prints are in various stages of being transformed into tops/tee shirts.

Patrones Spanish Sewing Magazines

2006-07-07T17:17:00.000-06:00

A wonderful sewist sent me these three magazines.
Very desirable spanish language sewing magazines.In the same genre as Burda WOF, La Mia Boutique, Modellina, sought after and silly prices outside of Spain , Canaries , Greece or Mexico.
Official website info:
Patrones
I am not going to do a review but suffice to say that they showcase high fashion trendy well known high street as well as top designer patterns.
The charts are not as polished as say Burda , diff sizing , minimal instruction in espanol.
Looking through the issues the pictures show the original garments( I know from the stamped buttons in some cases) but the actual patterns are probably drafted to give the finished look.Clearly no couture looking pattern pieces and or construction.
Have already bookmark some delicious delights.
Near the top of my wish list is a Burberry linen trench coat.
Will try and get a few more of the Moda Internacional issues but only if the price is right.
Enjoy

Phildar Automne 2006

2006-07-03T10:54:00.000-06:00

Phildar has started releasing the first of their gazillion new season books and yarns.
And guess what came across the channel at the weekend?
The new Phildar# 453 as well as acouple of knitting and crochet stitch books.

Five new yarns , the usual paper effect, variegated, bouclette mainly acrylic ones.
Phildar Fils

I am not a yarn snob and will use the yarns as indicated if I like the pattern enough.
Enjoy my shortlisted designs

Sizzling Saturday in Town

2006-07-02T09:13:00.000-06:00

What a great saturday( 1st July) I had. Fabby time on the hottest , best weekend this year.
Sales had just started ..................at least by my schedule.
Hosted some great French knitting pals as well as another local fiber hog( a co-conspirator)

Swung into town at about midday, only to find Oxford Street closed to traffic.

Yikes I thought, then I remembered it was Gay Pride.

The streets were packed , the shops were not heaving as should have been.With the anticipated England football match set for a few hours later , all was looking great if you werent in a pub , bar or outside an electrical shop.
Sadly there weren't great pickings in the sales for me.
I had decided (hoped)there wouldnt be much to tempt me.
Me of the recent 70 pelotes (aka balls)of Phildar yarns eurostar expressed to moi only a few weeks ago. I missed the Liberty preview( or not by all accounts).
With specialist local knowledge on the yarns , I was able to tempt as well as dissuade many a frenzied yarn purchase.
Five yarnaholics in John Lewis 4th floor location was indeed a sight to see.

Fabrics/yarns/pattern books/sewing patterns there and at Liberty were purchased.

Alfresco lunch in the glorious sunny London, tips were shared , fiber chat , yarn fondled , even a foray in football chatter.
Well with savvy french ladies , enough to drool over thier soccer squad.
Au revoirs, A bientots several hours led to the departure to Eurostar Terminal and surburbs.

All in all a grand day, planning a return visit to France early autumn.

Me !!!!!!Sale purchase??? Well a small bag of Luxury soft cotton in walnut by Sirdar.Not to stash , but to knit up asap

VPattern: A dress made mo(o)re famous

2006-06-29T19:03:00.000-06:00

No new content , so will continue with the visual feast( aka blog fodder).
A version of the instantly recognisable dress from last fall.The original in its various morphs shows the strength of the designer in question.
I do love designers who originate , develop and project their designs by draping.Exacting fit never comes from the cookie cutter school of pattern development
The best bits about the dress are the use of men's suiting and the simple but stunning fit( if one can achieve)
The distinctive and most interesting part of this dress design, the sleeves do nothing for me.

Verdict: Will pass on this pattern
I have OOP Vogue designer patterns/Burda WOF that willfit the bill.
Enjoy

New Fall Vogue Patterns

2006-06-26T16:35:00.000-06:00

I am a Vogue Sewing patternaholic .Lately their pickings havent been too great( fewer great designs, slower off the mark to translate the catwalk trends)( Remember the heady days when you could reproduce the same season's collection within weeks/months, great designer selection and even longer pattern wish lists)
But suprise me , this new season collection have a few designs that I really dig.

This is the one jacket that I will ( would like to)be making this winter.
I love the unusual , clever construction details , kicky design details.Beacuase after a few dozen suits , lapels , welts , and sleeve easing can so become boring, I love not knowing quite what the final product will be.
I have a few things I am working on in the background , but nothing I am ready to share online.I will try and link a few more of the new patterns as blog fodder over the next week or so.

Knitting Update
Shameful me, I have summer knits done , waiting to mattress stitch the sides or sew on the ruffles or in the case of Vittadini SSummer 2005 cover lace cardi , just to cast on the last 280 x two stitches which triplicates .Yikes
I never got round to looking at the Vittadini 2006 book , took forever to come online , by which time I just wasn't interested.
Need to cast on for a small cotton blend shell ,..................................

Shapewear (Not Spanx)

2006-06-16T17:24:00.000-06:00

I have just finished a prototype of the thigh slimmer shapewear, actually a knock off version of a TNT( tried and tested) RTW.
Too (cheap) thrifty to shell out over 50.00GBPounds, I decided to have a go at making a clone.
As I had a stash of lingerie and bra making findings acquired from the sample studio of the said lingerie manufacturer , I knew if I could reproduce the pattern and perfect the specialist sewing techniques I was on my way to saving loads of money.

Scramble online produced an OOP Kwik Sew girdle pattern # 2152

Original pattern pieces created by a combination of pencil tracing and measurements.
The supplies were assembled
Satin Powernet( Industrial Strength)
Powernet
Plush Elastic
Wooly nylon thread( bobbin and overlocker)
Polyester thread
Taunton Press Book ; Sewing Knits
Singer series Book: Sewing Lingerie .........an excellent book despite its age
Expresso coffee on the tap.

Required Sewing skills:
Able to cut small fiddly odd shaped pattern pieces( best done with small rotary cutter)
Able to stitch accurate 6mm seams
Manipulating curvy seams
Application of elastic on high stretch materials
Use of speciality stitch on my machine.
Viking Orchidea stitch A6 and A7..........nice stretch stitch

Couple of hours later the spanxette was done
Great fit, believe that.Was able to slither into a new RTW linen skirt whose zipper wouldnt budge san reinforcement.

Despite having over 60 sewing books , there isnt a lot covering Shapewear , pattern drafting , sewing techniques etc.
The web is a great resource for searching online stores for ideas.One only worries about what the webcrawlers might make of a change in search request.
Also make sure to put adult filters on the search .

I have a whole summer /autumn of trying out other types of lingerie sewing