My Sewing and KnittAntics

Frenzied Sewing and Hand Knitting Antics jazzed along by Machine Knitting.

Monday, November 06, 2006

FO:Vogue #2530 Calvin Klein Raincoat

Project Details

Outer Garment:Black Viscose & Polyurethane blend. Waterproof/Repellant
Lining: Blue Black Silk & Cotton Satin fabric
Notions: Vinyl and Teflon coated presser foot, Universal needle and Gutermann polyester thread
Interfacing : Non ( see below)

OOP Vogue design.Copyright date 1990.
I acquired the pattern as a gift in 1999 whilst searching for Vogue Issey Miyake patterns.This pattern/ silhouette is still in current Calvin Klein RTW collections with pocket variations.I made the first version in 2000 , in a black cotton canvas rainproof fabric which lasted five years of abuse.

Design Details
Loose fitting, A line, lined coat , above mid knee ,has self or contrast collar on band ,pockets with flaps, back pleats and long sleeves with button bands.
Suitable for Broadcloth, Lwt Gabardine, Flannel Duck and Poplin.Optional Water repellant spray
Finished measurements( size 14) Bust 49 inches, Hips 56 inches Width 60 inches, Length 60 inches.

Alterations: Dartless FBA, lengthened by 3 inches( the original owner defaced the pattern cover)

The above picture is the best representation of the fabric.It has a subtle lustre.
In progress pictures located here

The instructions on two sides of single sheet was crammed but excellent.
The construction was straight forward.( Least the times it was scrunched up ready for the bin)

One expects that research on raincoat, outer wear plasticky fabrics already done.
Fabric Sewing Guides, Fabric Savvy etc
Good Articles from Threads Magazine : Issue 19 and 46
Rochelle Harper: Sewing Outerwear fabrics

Main bugbears :
Pressing the wretched fabric.Needed to press scraps starting with the coolest settings and inching up slowly just to the point where 1 degree higher would have meant char.
I used steam even though the fabric is impervious , felt that it increased the temp ever so slightly.
Marks & Holes: No room for ripping , the fabric mars and all needle holes remain.
I was only able to use fine pins in the seam allowances and resorted to wooden clothes pegs and paper clips.
Lucky for me Viking Buttonhole sensor meantI got even reproducible buttonholes.
Interfacing: Addind structure especially to the flaps and collar, and bands should have been a challenge.The prospect to trying out sew-in type interfacings wasnt on the cards.Luckly the fabric was from jobbers and the yardage was pre fused
Vilene do a great Leather non woven fusible LE420 which I have used on vinyl, faux leather and ultrasuede.

A great city coat , roomy enough to wear over complete ensemble, perfect length for driving as well as pounding the pavements.
For me maybe more versatile than my traditional styled trenchcoats.