My Sewing and KnittAntics

Frenzied Sewing and Hand Knitting Antics jazzed along by Machine Knitting.

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

UpClose : Lace Trenchcoat from Burberry

Finally able to find time to post about details as noted on the lace trenchcoat.

First the hype:
I was only able to track down the coat at the New Bond St shop.M'am that collection is so exclusive it is only available there I was told at the Regent Street branch. ( and net.a.porter I mumbled)
Coat is apparently completely sold out, and thiry names on the waiting list .Drat , after all that trudging down NBS narrowly missing going into designer shops.
Okay so there was the model in the shop window..............................was I going to be able to pretend I was the window display artist doing a touch up.I dont think so.
Magically another coat appeared , apparently on hold for a lady( lucky her)

Antique lace .Soft matte finish scallop edged lace.The coat I examined was the pearl , but there were other pieces from the collection in the black lace.
Fiber content: 60% cotton , 20%rayon, 20% polyamide
Lining: Buff Knit jersey 65% Acetate 35% Polyamide.
This had the hand of fine single knit silk jersey

Design and Construction Notes
Double breasted slimline coat.
Fully lined with knit jersey
Front and back princess seams
Diagonal welt pockets
Three piece raglan sleeves
Sleeve vents with five button closure
Round collar with collar band
Brass hook and bar fastening on collar band
Self covered fabric belt and pearl buckle.
Bone logoed buttons in black
Back short shield
Scalloped egde on front closure ,coat hem, collar and cuffs
Chain coat hanger

As the coat was not in my size , and I didnt come pretending to be the alterations lady( wrist pincushion, tape round neck and clippers stuck in my hair) I just blagged it by asking to lpeek inside at the construction details.
The majaor seams were flat felled.The main lace handled separate from the the lining.
The side seams had the lace and knit sewn together , pressed open and hongkong seamed with satin.
No interfacing was discernable, perhaps same colour tulle or organza was used
( it was bad enuff to poke and prod the coat , guess it would have been taking the piss to ask for a seam ripper to navigate any deeper?? yes)
The front facing was a thicker version of the buff knit jersey( or two layers bonded for home sewists)
Clever construction for the lace edges .The raw edges were rolled and sewn out of sight .The outer lace collar was sewn as an applique type effect.
Clean finished all round.
The upper end of the diagonal welt was on top of the princess seam( not recommended to copy at home.Think how many layers of fabric to sew through)

Pattern Possibilities
Burda WOF 8/2006 # 111 Line drawing above was the closest.
Needs collar redraft, welt pockets, back shield and a three piece raglan sleeve with vent conversion.
Vogue #2449 OOP
Great trenchcoat to have in collection
Simplicity for Threads # 4084
Patrones January 2006 has Burberry Prosrum trenchcoat pattern
Burda WOF has in many a back issue trenchcoat patterns offering some of the features noted above.

Why bother?
I have always looked at original garments.Started when Vogue Patterns had original design from collection in season.Great way to learn about fabrics, design to fabric marriage , clever and often subtle designer details, and upgrade somewhat humdrum pattern instructions.

It is educational , takes one beyond what is possibly offered in the current sewing journals.
From this coat
1.I need to find out how to draft a three piece raglan sleeve.
2.I need to read on Sewing with lace, and try and work out the inner construction
( Threads magazine #88 # 124, the fabric sewing guides, Bridal couture et al)
3. Dealing with scallop edges

Actually usually because I felt like.