Project:Phildar Printemps Tendances #443 Style 33

Project Details
Pattern:Phildar Printemp Tendances 2006 Style 33
Veste cintree col tailleur( Tailored Jacket)
Yarn: Original Phildar Aviso 50% Coton 50% Acrylic
Substitute used: Online Linie Cora 50% Wool 50% Acrylic
Needles:Machine Knit on Brother Chunky Knitting Machine 9mm except front lower curved ribbing, which was hand knit at end with sz 5mm needles.

Commentary:
Knitted from original French instructions.
Since French Phildar( not the English lost in translation) are written in a modular way it is easy to change gauge and make design alterations.
The schematic also makes charting for the Knit Leader/Knit Radar easy.
Phildar patterns are also written for the Knitting machines , either standard gauge up to 5mm (QuicPhil or Mini Maille) or their Chunky 9mm( Big Phil or MaxiMaille).Some of the chunky knits work on Japanese Knitting machines with the ribber.
Matched the gauge , machine shortrow done at bust region to add to front waist length .The sleeves were shortened.
Crochet button loops and horn buttons used.

The lapel consist of 1x1 rib with a stitch being transformed and the rib reestablished each row.This is a great way of shaping shawl collars /lapels.Oft used by Kim Hargreaves in Rowan patterns and there are good explanations in the Vogue Knitting Book as well as Katherina Buss As per normal Phildar style , there were written instructions as well a fully annotated chart.Machine Knitter will realise I must be a newbie since the stitches have to be hand manipulated for every single row.So what if it was for about 50 rows? It was well worth the hassle , took an hour of concentration , but since the rest of the jacket took no more than 3 hours total knitting time.............there was no contest.
The jacket would have taken at least 3-4 weeks to hand knit

Great style , but since it was done in aran weight knitted to a tighter tension I felt it would be too warm for summer only , and would serve me better as a transeasonal garment hence the yarn sub( okay and the busload of Linie yarn in the closet.
Recommended.