Patrones # 241 Dolce & Gabbana Coat

Project: Patrones 241 #49 Abrigo Dolce & Gabbana

Fabric: Linen Tweed and Blue Denim
Lining: Taupe/Blue Twill lining
Notions: Jeans Snap on Buttons, Polyester Sew All and Generic Topstitching Threads
The linen tweed was a cross between burlap and hopsacking .Underlined the entire coat with fusible tricot knit interfacing as underlining.Needed to use denim needles for construction
Pattern Details
The coat pattern style lines made up of shoulder princess seams with denim front and sleeve bands.Nehru style collar.The edges on front and sleeves denim pieces and fabric collar were fringed.The draft of the Patrones pattern/s ( perhaps in general ) require some work.
Style led variations( the usual nonsense about following designer lines as opposed to recreate the pattern based on in house standard sloper) equals sizing and fit all over the place.
Omit a muslin at one,s peril???

Modifications:

1.Traced and altered the Patrones pattern pieces , made a quick muslin and realised it was going to require some hard work making it work,The landmark measurements didnt match their published ones

2.Decided to graft the essential style lines onto Vogue 7978 coat pattern.Used the View E
Cannibalised the front and sleeve pattern pieces, fudged the armscye.

3.The edges on the denim pieces left raw.Rust topstitching threads( From a FabricDive in Toronto) was used and they were straddled 5mm from edge with fine zigzag stitches.

4.Used unfringed self fabric collar

5.Pocket flaps lined with denim as per Patrones instructions , but I omitted the top upper pockets

6.I needed to rewrite the order of sewing to suit my changes and the method for lining the coat, which was completed on the machine.

Patrones Instructions
They are in Spanish, and even with translation they are terse and dont give too many details.
Nothing to whinge about.One takes these things as they are.
Close up view front

View of the distressed raw edges( which will drive me nuts as they fray?)


Inside view showing the lining

Nice coat which will make a great weekend topper.Perhaps passe but I have never cared about being in fashion.
Wont be making again but this particular Patrones # 241 is one of the best in my collection.
I have made half a dozen garments from it , and have several more on the wish list.
The matching skirt I have also made to go with another suit. Coming soon