My Sewing and KnittAntics

Frenzied Sewing and Hand Knitting Antics jazzed along by Machine Knitting.

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Snoop Shopping Armani Collezioni

Virtual Snoop shopping online is great , but better still is doing in the flesh.
A couple of Sundays ago we went to town to celebrate a fellow sewist birthday , and some shopping treat as a present ( sorry not for me ) landed us in Armani Collezioni.
Quiet shop , malleable sales rep and a bunch of sewists made for inspirational heaven.
One may ask so what? or what is the big deal?
For me , it is validated the ability to sew. With the right combination of skills, research and attention to detail some of the jackets etc are so reproducible.
This is the high end RTW collection not the Couture Line Armani Prive.
Makes it laughable for so many sewists who parody themselves about not wanting to imitate RTW , opting for haute couture( aka dodgy home made crap) .Dream on.......................................

Impeccable tailoring.
Exceptional fit.
Scrumptious fabrics.

Muted neutrals, Ecru, Cream
Black, Browns , Charcoal Grey
Red, Blush

Wool/acetate/silk /polyester
Silks satins , charmeuse
Chenille ,Velvets
Viscose Lycra for tees
Cotton Poplin

Shapes and Fabrics that caught my eyes:
Structured embossed , and chevron wool jersey jackets
Sweater knit type jackets( made of a luxury blend not acrylic)
Diagonal twills
Watercolour prints
Jacquards, Brocades
Abstract floral chenille fabrication
Men suiting pin stripes

Design details
Waist darts , nipped in waists often with flared hems
Wrap dolman cropped jackets
Subtle piping details on peplum designs.
Square necklines, portrait collars
Fitted jackets with corsage effect single button closures.
Chenille jackets with pleated contrast trim on collar and sleeve hems
Asymmetric fronts on jackets.
Soft ruffled jackets
Knit tops with tucked or ruched details ( viscose Lycra , velvets)

Without pulling apart the clothes( lest we got thrown out) we were able try on a lot of the clothes .Great fit on a variety of figure types except for lengths which would be individualised . The jackets lined with twill lining( viscose acetate blend) silk satin or charmeuse.
Linings were hand finished.
Unlined jackets had the darts graded and finished on each leg with fine overlocking.
Seams graded down and finished with overlocking.
Jersey suits had facings in silk satin, sleeves hem was also in silk satin and finished with blind hems.

Didnt spent too much time on the trousers ( dont wear them sorry) Okay so they are always left unfinished to allow for personalised adjustments.Straight legs , flat fronts, fly front zippers.Note I don't recall seeing any ultra skinny trousers.

How to recreate the looks.
The essence of the collection is the key.Get the fabrics spot on( this is not the time for bargain basement yucky mucky fabrics)
Get your tailoring skills up to par.
Threads Magazine had a great series on Armani jackets.
VPM often have patterns that emulate current look
Vogue 8302 is one in the books
Burda WOF in my opinion has the best selection of patterns that will give the closest interpretation can pull out a dozen jacket patterns that could be the starting point for many a style.
The brocade skirt featured above is a close cousin to a gold taffeta BWOF one.Not forgetting direct repros from issues past.
Be inspired.
Will I be making any jackets? Don't know and it wont even matter.