FO:Burda WOF Coat 9/2005 #102

Project Details
Pattern: Burda WOF September 2005 # 102
Fabric:"British Plaid " Wool coating
Lining: Rayon/Cotton heavy satin
Buttons: Horn

Pattern Bio:Soft A-line figure flattering seams , menswear tabs, buttonhole pockets with flaps , wide notched collar and two rows of horn buttons.

Mods/Alterations.
Coat has multiple front seams which would make fudging a bit of width easy need width and depth and double breasted coats should normally be a no no.
Made a full sized test garment in a bogus heavy weight silk tweed.
Fitted the test garment over a complete suit ensemble.Much easier to check fit and ease with resorting to optimistic pattern hacking.
The coat was boxy but I needed some extra room in the hip area.Kept the silhouette pretty much the same as over fitting would have resulted in a matronly look.
Omitted the flap pockets , too much going on in the mid section, and used the inseam option on view #101
Construction Tips
Soft tailoring using satin weave( coat fusible) as the base interfacing, modified from the Burda WOF layout.
Straight and off grain tapes used on front edge and to crack at the lapel roll line.
Back interfacing was a cotton muslin ( woven.
Armhole reinforcement tape applied
Sleeve wraps and chest plastron ala TFox method.
The interfacings , tapes and tailoring video/ DVD available from English Couture company.(NAVY)
Bias hair canvas used for hem interfacing.
Buttonholes: What a kerfuffle.Bound buttonholes were not working, better to use snaps than ruin some uber expensive cloth.After a gazillion trials settled for corded buttonholes.
Used Clover silk thread with Gutermann top stitching thread as the cord filler .Used A46 buttonhole style , designed for heavy weight fabrics on the Viking-Husqvarna Orchidea .This is a nifty buttonhole design , without pilling on too much thread in the bars.
Due to a lot of she handling and over pressing( over processing) I have sent the coat to a specialist dry cleaner to revitalise and give a final press.



I am not likely to run Max Mara or any other designers out of town any time soon am so done with coats for now.
Back to cranking out simple tee tops.