My Sewing and KnittAntics

Frenzied Sewing and Hand Knitting Antics jazzed along by Machine Knitting.

Monday, August 07, 2006

Stretch Lining for Louis Vuitton skirt?

I am on a roll making some early transeasonal skirts( going somewhere hot in September so cottons , linens are still on the menu)
Tha above skirt from Patrones #241 February 2006 calls for linen with lycra elasthane cut on the bias(?overkill) and has a lining to which the tulle fringe is attached.
Have cut out the pattern in black linen with lycra, on the straight grain as my fabric has the most stretch on that grain , no sausage effect thank you very much.

Lining options
I am sure the issue of lining material for stretch woven fabrics is oft topical , there are lots of views and opinions , my choices are based on 10 yrs of sewing suits/skirts in woven with lycra fabrics.
1. Acetate/Cupro elasthane blend.
The best option if one is able to locate it.Usually used by the high end RTW designer outfits
John Lewis plc Oxford Street/MaCulloch&Wallis have stocked it in the past.Cost around 7-8GBPounds/metre
Comes in limited colours( neutral) unless from a jobber.
Can be hand and machine washed as well as drycleaned , doesnt tolerate hot iron.I have used regularly for the last 8 years without any major mishap.
Softens with wear but doesnt shred or disintergrate
2.Polyester Elasthane.
I have no personal experience
3.Stretch Silk Satin/Charmeuse/Chiffon
Depending on the weight of the outer garment
Can be expensive but well worth it for a major project.Often able to source rayon or poly stretch fabrics as sub
4. Stretch Tricot
Hot , clingy and yucky???
5.Anti static stretch microfibre/ Tactel
Great if you can source it.Excellent choice also for body conscious knits
6.Regular( Acetate/Ambiance)lining cut slightly bigger
Swishy , uncomfortable and lining often disintegrate before skirt/trousers.May work for jackets.I have only tried this methods on skirts and wasnt happy at all.
7.Regular( Acetate/ Ambiance) lining cut on the bias.
Stumbled on this option a few yrs ago when I made a Donna Karan or DKNY Vogue pattern.(OOP pattern in loft , would pull out if requested)
The jacket was cut on the bias from wool garbadine and acetate twill lining also cut on that grain.Great jacket fit and comfortable to wear, as a result I have used this options repeatedly since.
Clearly if one used Ambiance /Bemberg lining , the costs may well escalate sharply

What is not an option by me is using regular woven lining as is.The argument often given is that garments made in woven lycra shouldnt be made too tight and have to use the stretch factor for ease and fit.
Woven lycra fabrics are best suited for close fitting ( not TIGHT) clothes.The stretch contributes nothing to the ease but make the garment more comfortable to wear .Like the fitted tapered skirt or the sheath dress , for the oh so yummy shimmy effect

Ok, what did I do ?I have got acetate/cupro lycra lining ( dwindling supply) but as the skirt is whimsical and may not get all that much wear I decided to use Ambiance lining cut on the bias.
Disclaimer: It came from a designer factory closing down sale , so cost me less than going out to buy twill/acetate lining.

I wonder what other sewers use?

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