Ducking and Diving in London n Paris

The last week has been a blast.First we had snow in London, and probably most of Europe, not a big deal if one lived in the real temperate climes.2 inches of snow overnight simply cripples this city of mine.
The paradox is that the shops have switched from winter togs to spring summer collections this very week.Imagine yellow, white, peach in shop windows in subzero weather.
Went to collect a RTW jacket ordered from town. Curvy means largish size which equates to garments get sold out sharpish.Got a chance to look at a few other collections, some great stuff but too distracted to pay attention.

Then the biggie of the week.
A suprise visit to Paris at the end of the week to catch the now finished Balenciaga Exhibition.
SUPERB.

Sewing , Knitting???
The blue coat is done less final press, and off to get ready for the next week.
Have a great week

Viktor and Rolf for H& M Collection

Any fashion trendy will have heard about, or even gone out and joined the frenzy to score from the latest designer collection to hit H &M stores ( 250 stores worldwide) that launched on the 9th November 2006. This time it is the dessign duo of Viktor & Rolf
My fav piece is actually this item, yes another trenchcoat.

The newspaper article shows the melee that erupted in one of the London stores yesterday.
Burda WOF lives up to its name , not just as a pattern magazine but a portal for fashion events as well
Their website ( albeit in German) has the lead article as well as a fashion show showing the collection.

BWOF Viktor &Rolf show

There are other goodies hidden on the Burda WOF site
Devil wear Prada slideshow
The beginning of a fashion wikipedia
One can only guess that some of the looks and trends will translate into sewing patterns.
Way to go BWOF

Guess if isnt obvious that I'm a BWOF groupie , i 'fess up

UpClose : Lace Trenchcoat from Burberry

Finally able to find time to post about details as noted on the lace trenchcoat.

First the hype:
I was only able to track down the coat at the New Bond St shop.M'am that collection is so exclusive it is only available there I was told at the Regent Street branch. ( and net.a.porter I mumbled)
Coat is apparently completely sold out, and thiry names on the waiting list .Drat , after all that trudging down NBS narrowly missing going into designer shops.
Okay so there was the model in the shop window..............................was I going to be able to pretend I was the window display artist doing a touch up.I dont think so.
Magically another coat appeared , apparently on hold for a lady( lucky her)

Fabric
Antique lace .Soft matte finish scallop edged lace.The coat I examined was the pearl , but there were other pieces from the collection in the black lace.
Fiber content: 60% cotton , 20%rayon, 20% polyamide
Lining: Buff Knit jersey 65% Acetate 35% Polyamide.
This had the hand of fine single knit silk jersey

Design and Construction Notes
Double breasted slimline coat.
Fully lined with knit jersey
Front and back princess seams
Diagonal welt pockets
Three piece raglan sleeves
Sleeve vents with five button closure
Round collar with collar band
Brass hook and bar fastening on collar band
Self covered fabric belt and pearl buckle.
Bone logoed buttons in black
Back short shield
Scalloped egde on front closure ,coat hem, collar and cuffs
Chain coat hanger

Construction
As the coat was not in my size , and I didnt come pretending to be the alterations lady( wrist pincushion, tape round neck and clippers stuck in my hair) I just blagged it by asking to lpeek inside at the construction details.
The majaor seams were flat felled.The main lace handled separate from the the lining.
The side seams had the lace and knit sewn together , pressed open and hongkong seamed with satin.
No interfacing was discernable, perhaps same colour tulle or organza was used
( it was bad enuff to poke and prod the coat , guess it would have been taking the piss to ask for a seam ripper to navigate any deeper?? yes)
The front facing was a thicker version of the buff knit jersey( or two layers bonded for home sewists)
Clever construction for the lace edges .The raw edges were rolled and sewn out of sight .The outer lace collar was sewn as an applique type effect.
Clean finished all round.
The upper end of the diagonal welt was on top of the princess seam( not recommended to copy at home.Think how many layers of fabric to sew through)




Pattern Possibilities
Burda WOF 8/2006 # 111 Line drawing above was the closest.
Needs collar redraft, welt pockets, back shield and a three piece raglan sleeve with vent conversion.
Vogue #2449 OOP
Great trenchcoat to have in collection
Simplicity for Threads # 4084
Patrones January 2006 has Burberry Prosrum trenchcoat pattern
Burda WOF has in many a back issue trenchcoat patterns offering some of the features noted above.

Why bother?
I have always looked at original garments.Started when Vogue Patterns had original design from collection in season.Great way to learn about fabrics, design to fabric marriage , clever and often subtle designer details, and upgrade somewhat humdrum pattern instructions.

It is educational , takes one beyond what is possibly offered in the current sewing journals.
From this coat
1.I need to find out how to draft a three piece raglan sleeve.
2.I need to read on Sewing with lace, and try and work out the inner construction
( Threads magazine #88 # 124, the fabric sewing guides, Bridal couture et al)
3. Dealing with scallop edges

Actually usually because I felt like.

Burberry Lace Trenchcoat :TDF

I dont usually do the high fashion , repro the look( Okay so I am telling porkies) What I mean is that after a sewing hiatus it is difficult to get back to my sewing speed.
The only item that has me tongue tied and gagged( speechless) this season is the above Burberry Lace Trenchcoat.

Specifications:courtsey net-a-porter
UK Price 2465 GBPounds( $4000 odd US)
Pearl ( also comes in black) double breasted trenchcoat with signature bone buttons
Scalloped hem , cuffs and front fastening, a pocket on each hip and visible silk jersey lining.Trench has button fastening cuffs and scalloped vent across shoulder and falls to knee
Fabric: Antique look lace. 60% cotton 20% rayon 20% polyamide
This trenchcoat comes from the Burberry Prosrum "Icons" collection .
Described as a beautiful classic that exudes femininity.
I see it worn as a dress ( reminiscent of a vintage Donna Karan Vogue pattern)
May have to go into town to try and get a closer look if not sold out.

Wonder if any sewists online will take on the challenge of making it?
Would make for an epic winter project.The closest would have to be the awe inspiring Chanel trenchcoat interpretation made by cyber sewing guru (permission granted , thanks fzxdoc)

Design details( seen only from pictures).
Antique Lace fabric
Raglan styling
Double breasted
Side seams
Diagonal welt pockets
Fabric belt with covered buckle
Scalloped edging along front , hem collar and cuffs
Advertorial version has a narrow black studded belt

Pattern Leads
Patrones #240 January 2006 has an original Burberry Prosrum trenchcoat that will be closest.
Will try and locate big 3/4 and Burda WOF possibilities.

Wish some sewist is planning to interpret the look

Snoop Shopping Armani Collezioni

Virtual Snoop shopping online is great , but better still is doing in the flesh.
A couple of Sundays ago we went to town to celebrate a fellow sewist birthday , and some shopping treat as a present ( sorry not for me ) landed us in Armani Collezioni.
Quiet shop , malleable sales rep and a bunch of sewists made for inspirational heaven.
One may ask so what? or what is the big deal?
For me , it is validated the ability to sew. With the right combination of skills, research and attention to detail some of the jackets etc are so reproducible.
This is the high end RTW collection not the Couture Line Armani Prive.
Makes it laughable for so many sewists who parody themselves about not wanting to imitate RTW , opting for haute couture( aka dodgy home made crap) .Dream on.......................................

Impeccable tailoring.
Exceptional fit.
Scrumptious fabrics.

Colours
Muted neutrals, Ecru, Cream
Black, Browns , Charcoal Grey
Red, Blush

Fabrics/Fibres
Wool/acetate/silk /polyester
Wool/elastane
Cashmere
Silks satins , charmeuse
Chenille ,Velvets
Viscose Lycra for tees
Cotton Poplin

Shapes and Fabrics that caught my eyes:
Structured embossed , and chevron wool jersey jackets
Sweater knit type jackets( made of a luxury blend not acrylic)
Diagonal twills
Watercolour prints
Jacquards, Brocades
Abstract floral chenille fabrication
Men suiting pin stripes

Design details
Waist darts , nipped in waists often with flared hems
Wrap dolman cropped jackets
Subtle piping details on peplum designs.
Square necklines, portrait collars
Fitted jackets with corsage effect single button closures.
Chenille jackets with pleated contrast trim on collar and sleeve hems
Asymmetric fronts on jackets.
Soft ruffled jackets
Knit tops with tucked or ruched details ( viscose Lycra , velvets)

Without pulling apart the clothes( lest we got thrown out) we were able try on a lot of the clothes .Great fit on a variety of figure types except for lengths which would be individualised . The jackets lined with twill lining( viscose acetate blend) silk satin or charmeuse.
Linings were hand finished.
Unlined jackets had the darts graded and finished on each leg with fine overlocking.
Seams graded down and finished with overlocking.
Jersey suits had facings in silk satin, sleeves hem was also in silk satin and finished with blind hems.

Didnt spent too much time on the trousers ( dont wear them sorry) Okay so they are always left unfinished to allow for personalised adjustments.Straight legs , flat fronts, fly front zippers.Note I don't recall seeing any ultra skinny trousers.

How to recreate the looks.
The essence of the collection is the key.Get the fabrics spot on( this is not the time for bargain basement yucky mucky fabrics)
Get your tailoring skills up to par.
Threads Magazine had a great series on Armani jackets.
VPM often have patterns that emulate current look
Vogue 8302 is one in the books
Burda WOF in my opinion has the best selection of patterns that will give the closest interpretation can pull out a dozen jacket patterns that could be the starting point for many a style.
The brocade skirt featured above is a close cousin to a gold taffeta BWOF one.Not forgetting direct repros from issues past.
Be inspired.
Will I be making any jackets? Don't know and it wont even matter.