Rendevous in Town, Sewing in progress

Last week Tini and spouse were in London on a break , and I had the privilege of catching up with them mid week.They were absolutely charming.
A pit stop for caffeine , then a visit to Liberty yarn department.Despite the small snarfu we came away with purchases.Moi the princess enabler assisted Tini with her purchase of some yummy Rowan yarn and pattern book , I got a couple more mini pattern books, Bamboo Tape and one of the new RYC books.We were even able to squeeze a detour into R D Franks before they had to go.
Lucky me , Tini gifted the above Burda Easy Fashion S/S 2007 and Online knitting book.
Thank you very very much Tini for taking the time out for a rendezvous

Enabler Alert
Earlier on in the same week a trip to the Westend had me in RDFranks .The ultimate shop for fashion books, magazines and pattern drafting texts.They had the above pictured drafting tools on closeout.
Ivorine1/4 and1/5th scale
Neck and Armhole Guide copyright MRohr.
Each at £1.00 each.Well worth if local to London snagging them up , or find a crafting pal to help purchase

Project: Burda WOF 9/2006 #125
I am sewing quite a bit but the lack of time and dodgy computer gizmos( no change anytime soon) means blogging is waaaaaaaaaaaaay down the pile of things to do.
The Burda WOF coat is done and will put up dodgy pictures sharpish.

The fabric used: Felted wool cashmere boucle, somewhat friable .
No real suprises in the construction just a few things to think through because the fabric whilst light is still bulky.
Apart from deciding the choice of interfacings and how to deal with interfacing or not in seam allowances to try and reduce bulk , the lapel/collar edge seams usually needs drafting adjustments.l
One could guess the amount of tolerance needed for the top collar to completely cover the under collar aka Turn of Cloth.
Burda WOF in recent times dont have a separate pattern piece for the top and under collar Probably best as any pattern company draft will not work for all agrment weights

Calculating for Turn of Cloth
I work out the amount of fabric need to add to the top collar edge to completely cover the under collar prior to cutting , and adapt the top collar and front facing lapel pattern pieces accordingly.
1.Cut two rectangle of fashion fabric and two pieces of the interfacings .
I used supersoft superior and medium weight silky couture.
2.Sew the interfaced pieces together.

3.Three point press( on each side of the seamline and then open the seam for third step)
4.Bevel and grade the seam , fold and press favouring the outer garment piece.
5. The facing/under collar piece is now shorter and the difference in measurement here 3mm is the amount needed to amend the draft for undercollar and front facing lapel.

Why bother? For me it save stopping whilst putting the component parts together to jugggle pinching out , taking blisters and whatnot, and works well for all weights of fabrics .Saves me five to ten minutes I reckon.