My Sewing and KnittAntics

Frenzied Sewing and Hand Knitting Antics jazzed along by Machine Knitting.

Thursday, July 13, 2006

Burda WOF 7/2006 Style #121 Carmen Top

One of my easy tops in the WIP basket.But not as easy as I had hoped as I hit a major stumble.
Pattern specs:
Burda WOF 7/2006 Style # 121 described as jersey top with carmen neckline and short raglan sleeves, which will be finished in an hour
Fabric: Novelty seersucker effect rayon jersey knit.
The pattern was traced and fixed( FBA ,length added)
Would have been sewn in the prescribed time or less, decided to try to try the top on sans neckline finish.Yikes, gaposis/saggyitis galore

Backtracking the magazine picture of the finished garment had all the clues.Tastefully arranged pose , but look closely and you can see the top would have dropped off the model if she dared move.The long sleeved version in the magazine also has the same glitch.

On me when the back is pinned/darted out( in reality scrunched up) the top grazes (hugs) my shoulders just fine.The problem with a style like this is that if not custom drafted there will be no support from which the shoulder frames the neckline, without some reduction in total circumference by any one of several options.

Back view showing the saggy rubbish( with construction thread).
The neckline didnt stretch out as I rechecked the measurements against the pattern pieces.

Possible solutions :
1.Create darts in the shoulders.
2.Elasticize the neckline.
3.Ease with Vilene bias shaping tape.This might affect the elasticity of the neckline.
All I have worked out is the need to shorten and pull in the neckline.By what sort of dimension I havent got a clue.
I will consult Joseph-Armstrong Pattern Making reference book and try and catch a few rules on the drafting of carmen type tops .I suspect it has to do with dart suppression, overlaps and watnots( like drafting bustier type outfits)
I will try the second option out.I still have some scraps and will use my lingerie books and a variety of elastic finishes.
Foldover elastic could work but might clash with the fabric self pattern.
Watch this space.

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