Vogue DKNY 2951 suit et al

Patterns
Jacket: Vogue DKNY # 2951
Plain skirt: Butterick 3637 OOP
Knit Top:Simplicity 4076 View E


Fabrics
Jacket:Tobacco Solbiati Linen
Print skirt: Ungaro Cotton Sateen with lycra
Knit Top: Spun Viscose Knit( san lycra)

Modification/Details
Semi fitted lined jacket with patch pockets, princess seams in back, topstitched design trim and buttoned front.
Main distinguishing details are the sleeves.
Three piece combination sleeve , that is set in front and raglan back.
Not unusual ,I have made severaljackets with como sleeves from Donna Karan , recently Bill Blass.There is a brown longer length coat in January 2007 Burda WOF.
The combo can raglan front or back.
Note***** The sleeves are only 7/8th ,just about obvious on the pattern envelope but not mentioned/ no measurements


Tulip style skirt.Omitted the pockets. didnt have enough for fabric and I wouldnt wear with extrahip widening features.The yoke lining was done in the plain linen and edges finished with bias strips on Ambiance lining


Smart move to make a plain( non faddy) skirt.
Plain A-line fully lined skirt.OOP Butterick 3637
Finally a quick knit top.
Simplicity 4076 View E in spun viscose knit.Not very stretchy so needed to size up.
Me , I prefer Butterick 3391 OOP View E , with a slightly pulled effect over the gathered area and better suited for suits

Patrones # 241 Dolce & Gabbana Coat

Project: Patrones 241 #49 Abrigo Dolce & Gabbana

Fabric: Linen Tweed and Blue Denim
Lining: Taupe/Blue Twill lining
Notions: Jeans Snap on Buttons, Polyester Sew All and Generic Topstitching Threads
The linen tweed was a cross between burlap and hopsacking .Underlined the entire coat with fusible tricot knit interfacing as underlining.Needed to use denim needles for construction
Pattern Details
The coat pattern style lines made up of shoulder princess seams with denim front and sleeve bands.Nehru style collar.The edges on front and sleeves denim pieces and fabric collar were fringed.The draft of the Patrones pattern/s ( perhaps in general ) require some work.
Style led variations( the usual nonsense about following designer lines as opposed to recreate the pattern based on in house standard sloper) equals sizing and fit all over the place.
Omit a muslin at one,s peril???

Modifications:

1.Traced and altered the Patrones pattern pieces , made a quick muslin and realised it was going to require some hard work making it work,The landmark measurements didnt match their published ones

2.Decided to graft the essential style lines onto Vogue 7978 coat pattern.Used the View E
Cannibalised the front and sleeve pattern pieces, fudged the armscye.

3.The edges on the denim pieces left raw.Rust topstitching threads( From a FabricDive in Toronto) was used and they were straddled 5mm from edge with fine zigzag stitches.

4.Used unfringed self fabric collar

5.Pocket flaps lined with denim as per Patrones instructions , but I omitted the top upper pockets

6.I needed to rewrite the order of sewing to suit my changes and the method for lining the coat, which was completed on the machine.

Patrones Instructions
They are in Spanish, and even with translation they are terse and dont give too many details.
Nothing to whinge about.One takes these things as they are.
Close up view front

View of the distressed raw edges( which will drive me nuts as they fray?)


Inside view showing the lining

Nice coat which will make a great weekend topper.Perhaps passe but I have never cared about being in fashion.
Wont be making again but this particular Patrones # 241 is one of the best in my collection.
I have made half a dozen garments from it , and have several more on the wish list.
The matching skirt I have also made to go with another suit. Coming soon

Soon Come, Soon Come, ? Soon Come

Soon Come , pidgin way of saying "I'll right back in a jiffy"
Sewing , Knitting , Looking at and Gleaning details from RTW, and the rest of life , just not in the mood to blog.

Line drawing above , a couple of the dozen or so garments I have finished in the past four weeks.Just need to find the will and time to put up pictures

Bad news from Burda Publishing.Verena and Anna and its special publications have been axed.
German link to Burda website forum with the editorial team fielding questions
Carry on whingeing about Burda WOF .....................................................

Great ( new to me) Sew-4-Fun blog with an excellent primer on Topstitching.Bonus is that the lady sews on the same machine brand I use.
Ciao