FO: Vogue # 1332 Geoffrey Beene Jacket

Project Details
Pattern:Vogue # 1332 Geoffrey Beene OOP
Fabrics: Novelty Linen, Black Linen as contrast
Lining: Mill end logo'ed black Ambiance
Mods/Specifications:
Very OOP copyright date 1994
Loose fitting lined below hip jacket has back neckband extending slightly to front, shoulder pads, right welt , pocket, side slits , shaped front hemline, back seam detail and long sleeves.
Great pattern with only three major pattern pieces

FBA done by making an L slash , pivot and slide.The dart created needed to be transferred and since there is no side seam , the dart ended up in the front lower armhole area.

Made a major major major blopper .Despite a few practice welts, annotated pattern instructions, I managed to sew two instead of the single welt pocket.YIKES.
I guess that is a small price for sewing in the middle of the night.
I usually get a substantial portion of my sewing done in the wee hours when on call, as attending from home.Once up and awake , best way to cope with the insomnia and waiting around.
Usually though I try not to get into major or fiddly construction parts like collars, welts , etc.

Collar/Jacket Front Insert.
Side Jacket view , no side seams.
There's loads of wobbly topstitching( bad bad sewer eh) .The nature of the base fabric meant that any of the other colours( grey, white, winter white ) just didnt work .Guess I should have also used different distances between the edge and topstitching.
BACK TO NODDY SEWING SCHOOL
Me . I am not an overthinking overprocessing purist, and can live with minor or even major sewing faux pas. Guess the sewing and messing things up is the best way for me to improve my skills Better luck or choices next time.
However this jacket has already been worn this week and I am loving it.

I would love to make it again in a plain winter weight fabric/ colour .But I have a dozen or so other Geoffrey Beenes OOP and scazillion other Vogue designer patterns on the wishlist.

FO: Burda WOF 3/2004 Jacket

Project
Pattern: Burda WOF 3/2004 Style # 101
Fabric: Garigue Wool, Cotton, Rayon Tweed
Lining: White Silk Satin
Shell: Black Rayon Lycra Vogue # 2555 OOP
Skirt: Black HBoss Wool twill Butterick # 4602 OOP


Mods/Construction Details:
Straightforward project.The only things worthy of mention are related to the fabric's quirky characteristics.
The jacket fabric is a very loosely woven one consisting of white n black wool roving woven onto a mesh consisting of white cotton cords and thinner rayon cotton threads.Made for a very unstable loosey goosey hand

Entire jacket underlined with Light Silky touch couture interfacing( described as the closest thing to fusible organza)
Weft insertion interfacing then applied to specific areas.Armhole reinforcement tape used , sleeve wrap and shoulder pads .
Front foldline which is the "grown on" variety was stabilised with selvedge strips of silk organza.The neck line also stabilised using bias strips of same organza.
Prick stitches used to hold the facings in place
Two shades of silk threads were used the one for jacket internal construction was a couple of shades off ( two shades off), this was done as pulling of preumed stray white threads may have resulted in yanking out the white rayon threads and creating huge gaps in base fabric.Same colour winter white thredas used for all the external hand work

Pockets were hand applied using the double stitching method.

Closure were hammer on snaps as indicated in the Burda WOF instructions
Ensemble completed with plain black knit tee and a nifty princess seamed straight skirt that required only 80 cm of fabric.