My Sewing and KnittAntics

Frenzied Sewing and Hand Knitting Antics jazzed along by Machine Knitting.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

More Knit Tops, and Work progress

No crafting at all in the last few days.I have managed however to turn the above pile into one lined jacket , and two skirts.Have a couple of coordinating prints pulled out that I may quickly rustle up before changing colour scheme, re-prep overlocker and sewing machines.
I am itching to get cracking on my blue/blue tone pile ASAP.

New magazines to keep me on focus, The Fiesta edition of Patrones mid week , then Vogue Knitting magazine S/S 07, Sew Stylish , and Rowan Kasbah Collection.

Project Details
Pattern: Self drafted skirt
Fabric: Matte Viscose Jersey, Lined with skintone tricot
Just took a couple of measurements,cut into the fabrics directly after charting the outlines ,used a contour elastic treatment.

"Cut and Sew" is a term probably familiar to tailors/ dressmakers from African & Asia.
This entails pattern drafting directly onto fabric with chalk and tapemeasure or onto brown paper for more complex designs.It involves understanding and application of drafting rules , and takes a few years to master.They can recreate just about any designs just from looking at magazine pictures
Unfortunately I didnt develop the skills/expertise and therefore a minion to paper patterns

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 4020 View C
Fabric: Viscose Lycra knit.
Okay top, easy enough to make , guess it will be great to peek through a boring severe suit.
The shoulder tuck/pleats are a bit weird even on the pattern envelope and I will not advise pivoting and transfer of side darts there
I may make a plain version?My plain knits tend to be the more expensive from my sources and therefore get used for really basic designs.

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Sunday, April 15, 2007

FO:OOP Vogue Donna Karan #1961 reworked

Whilst the camel coat was in limbo pending the buttonholes , spent the last couple of weeks cranking out some knits.
With the latest batch of Vogue patterns , noticed the KVD Akker # 2971 amongst others and recognised the top line drawings were very similar to an OOP Donna Karan pattern #1961
As the new patterns are not available in the UK yet and needing the distraction pulled out the DK pattern and attempt to morph the changes.I intend to acquire the KVD Akker pattern anyway and will make the top whenever I get it .

Vogue Pattern # 1961
Copyright date 1987
Description:Mock front wrap top, shoulder pads, tucked front extends into single layer tie ends(wrong side may show) and back neck zipper.
I have had the pattern from 1997 and have made this view B four times, one still in the winter closet , the other on sabbatical( aka too small to wear currently but unwilling to part with it)
Muslin:
Used an OOP Butterick pattern # 3584 a basic close fitting crew neck tee top to cobble the changes .
Aligned the waistlines on the two patterns , the bust points and nape of neck postions were identical ( Same base sloper).The back was altered by eliminating height and width tolerances for the shoulder pads and the slightly lower armholes.Similar fix to front except I had to do some hocus pocus to get the right amount of swing because I wanted to approximate the KVDA top.
As I used the armholes from Butterick #3584 , the painless thing was to use its corresponding sleeve pattern piece.
Original length on # 1961 was 46.5 cm and the KVDA was approx 56 cm on the size 14.
Used some cotton linen knit which had been purchased for making trial knit garments(rarely)
FBA was required and the method I used is difficult to describe, may be able to pull out the pattern pieces and take pictures. The alterations required a modified L shaped slash.
One could create a smidge of room for a small FBA by moving the position of the FRONT stitching line.
I have to lower stitching which incidentally creates the front tuck by 2.5cm to correspond to my bust height
Final Garment:
Dusky lilac ( the camera and monitor not true colour) microfiber knit.
Crappy neckline, stretched out before i stitched the wretched thing.
This version is probably too long , as it creates pooling of fabric in the high hip area .See below for explanation.

Observations:
If the KVDA top is anything like the morph.
The tie ends may need to be made had needed to extend the ties on the #1961 and I have a relatively small waist for size.
Watch out for dog eared tie ends( I should know)
The very scoop / boat neckline may not crew neckline probably balances the elements the best.
Striped fabric , if in the genre of the prison suit ( #1736 bustle back jacket or #2056 origami top) would be stunning.
The finished length on the morph ( same as VKD Akker) is too long for a sleek feel the top works best if length just skims past the waist as longer creates wads of fabric and bulk in the high hip area.
On my tops I made them 49cm ( 19 inches) just so they sat just below my waistline.
I will update to blog any observations once I have the # 2971 in my hot little hands

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Overview of the knits made in the last couple of weeks.
Will put up details in the next couple of days.
Today the weather feels more like Lagos or Laos than London ,off to enjoy the unseasonal warm weather

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