Burda WOF August 2006 is here

Burda WOF August 2006 is here and packed with lots to trace out and sew.Even though the temps are still soaring there are a few things that are calling out to be made ASAP.Already traced out a flippy skirt for starters , the crochet bag needs to be swatched , toying with a few options as leather pieces to coordinate unknown yarn colour is proving difficult.More on crochet bag project in separate entry.

There is a lot of glitz going on.1980's revival , gold buttons and all. I absolutely love the fabric bag in the above layout So very doable in oriental silks or even damasks and brocade .The embroidered skirt is also going into my inspiration folder.
The bad news is the back of the magazine highlights September preview, so far looks like going from one top ten stellar editions of Burda WOF to the worst.Babushkas, some Heidi type dirndl number.Seriously hope the other designs yet unseen will compensate.
The inside cover has a preview for the Burda WOF Plus Edition Autumn/Winter 2005/2006 , an issue I dont normally get , patterns need to be graded down and endlessly tweaked to get a reasonable fit ,but the styles look very nice and there will be a workshop on the Full Bust Alterations/Adjustments(FBA).
One wonder if it will be as good as the 1997 Burda WOF.Curious to see if they shed light on what Bust Cup size the Plus range sloper is based on.

The Ecru linen denim type jacket is almost done.I am in love , the sleeve is so fabby witha nice shape and eased effortlessly.Going to my Hall of Fame of pattern pieces to save.This is a notebook of exceptional pattern pieces , sleeves armscye, details , welts that work.Great for reproducing or"knocking off' " RTW
Need to decide whether to use snaps, or buttonholes and gilt/brass type buttons.

Finished Phildar #448 Bustier Top

Project Details
Pattern: Phildar #448 Special Twenty 2006 Pattern 10 Bustier

Yarn: No label Rowan Handknit Cotton sub for Coton 4

Mods/Commentary:
Quick summer project.Fitted corset type tank/shell.Rib pattern with eyelet details.
Difficult to do a FBA and lower the empire line without spoiling the dewsign lines .If knitted as specified the horizontal portion of design will start bang on the bustpoint area for me .
I knitted a smaller size for the back to the front to give some shimmy , extended the horizontal design to four pattern repeat.I kept the lower rib section the same as I wasnt going for the belly baring look.
One may need to shorten the rib area accordingly to keep full length unchanged if desired.
Squared out the scooped neckline and made the straps wider by charting on graph paper
Finished with crochet edge with picot trim.This may be tricky in the original yarn which is quite robust.
Great French Phildar instructions with charts , stitch pattern definition and schematics.

Conclusions:
Worn already but will need to dye to muted colour to get more use out of it
I wont be making again , too many fabby Phildar patterns to try.

Sewing in the Storm

Thunderstorm evening , at least temps are dropping.
Sewing continues chez moi
The DKNY skirt is done.
Love it , the skirt equivalent of low rise trousers.
The jacket is too formal for what I need( too similar to my proper work summer suit)
So decided on the Burda jacket modified to use as a shirt. Some tweaking needed, I think the FBA curve might be a smidge too much.Will lose the lower band , replace with topstiched hem and denim type poppas for closure.
Cut and half sewn.
Need to cut out a few more bits, too much inspirational stuff flying out from cyber sewing sites.
Great news is that some of the togs are from Burda WOF , so a mini marathon sewing weekend whilst I wait for the sensational August 2006 issue.

Project::Vogue # 2789 Ann Klein Shirt

Projects just tumbling out of the work basket.The knitting ones uploaded , and which I will continue to add have been done in the last year or so.
My leave of absence from sewing was spent knitting and crocheting.
I try not to have more than one big and maybe one smaller project on the needle.

My sewing is another story entirely.I have a basket filled with several projects , already cut ,matching symbols marked or thread traced with appropriate lining and or interfacing waiting for me to get to them.
I know I wont make the best blogger , my journal is in my head.With a photographic memory I am able to remember minute details effortlessly, and not sure the place of web documentation.
But how will DS and co know what I have been crafting at?
I wont make the type of web logger that is able /willing take a zillion pictures and write tomes on choosing projects , patterns , dancing around fabrics choices and techniques through the production stage.

I process and prance around mentally what the next sewing project will be or not.Easy to jettison any dodgy ideas, after all I have a virtual sewing paradise chez moi what with bundles of luscious fabrics( stashed in every available space), designer notions , piles of Burda WOF , hard to find/covet worthy OOP Vogue designer patterns.
By the time I get to the sewing machine , all in theory is ready to roll.
Hot off the Viking Orchidea is this functional shirt.
14 buttonholes held me back for a week or so,guess it isnt piping hot eh?




Project Details
Pattern : Vogue Anne Klein # 2789 OOP
Fabric: Stone Cotton /Elasthane shirting.
Mods/Commentary:
Semi fitted shirt with collar and collar stand , upper front extending into tie ends, long sleeves with buttoned cuffs.
Needed to do a FBA(full bust alteration) , shorten the upper back length.
Fairly straight forward instructions if you have your shirtmaking skills honed.
Glitchy bit where the front end ties are folded , mine are suspect.
14 buttonholes that took forever ......................Yikes. and then pesky 13mm buttons to sew by hand.


Conclusions:
Great shirt , interesting enough , not many pattern pieces to trim or cut .Came out about the same time as an OOP Donna Karan with the twist tie front and almost as nice.
Better suited to fabric that doesnt crease( like my fav summer fibre linen as ironing isnt fun.
I need a crash revision course on shirtmaking.Come autumn and I will clear some time for the David Coffin book and video.
Twist ( pun intentional) on the classic shirt.
Will make again

Project: Phildar Irlandais # 417 Style 02

Project Details
Phildar Irlandais Book # 417 Style 02
Yarn:
Phildar Oxygene colour Ardoise
40% Acrylic, 35% Chlorofibre , 25% Wool
Mods/Commentary:
No pattern modification.
As with the French language editions , the pattern instructions, schematics and charts were spot on.All the stitch patterns are explained long hand , the charts with full glossary.
Oxygene is an unusual yarn, I almost gave up the project at the beginning.It had the tactile effect of cotton wool or crushed marshmallow , but since yarn was bought full price on day jaunt to Phildar in Calais, persisted and was soon richly rewarded.
Excellent stitch definition , great for cbles, ribbing etc.The sweater photographed is 2yrs old and has been in th washing machine without any problems.No pilling at all.
The finished garment is light to wear and non plasticky.To boot the yarn has some antibacterial component the life of the garment.
One yarn to stash and use again.
I have three of the Phildar Irlandais pattern books , and there will be another project this autumn



Close up showing ribbing , cables and lace stitch pattern

Project: Phildar Hiver #416 "Potiron" Sweater

Project Details
Pattern: Phildar Automne/Hiver # 416 Style 30

Yarn: Bergere de France Sport as sub for Phildar Quietude.
Yarn is 50% Wool 50% Acrylic shade Corrida.Same fiber compostion as the original yarn.

Mods/Commentary:
Was able to get the guage so real fudging required.
Intricate cable design with at least 4 different panels worked over different number of rows worked at the same time.
But excellent Phildar chart and schematics.Great instructions if you can knit in French.
Unable ( or rather unwilling to contemplate short rows) to add to front bust length , so I knit the back in one size smaller to give shimmy room.
There was a French Knitalong when the magazine came out.
Love the swater loads

Burda WOF 8/2006 Sneak peek

I had a post on the Vogue Knitting Autumn preview to do( blooger gobbled it up last night) caught a glimpse of the upcoming Burda WOF 8/2006.......................... and got side tracked.
Just a quick peek of my first Autumn project.

Project : Vogue Pattern 7880 Skirt

Project Details

Pattern : Vogue 7880 View C

Fabric: Tobacco Solibati Linen

Mods/Commentary
No modifications.One of the best Vogue skirt patterns, in the same genre as the Individualists/Attitudes range.
Multiple pattern pieces , that needs careful marking and tagging as the pieces all looked similar.
Top portion is lined , I used irridescent tobacco/blue acetate /rayon lining fabrics.
Not easy to work out the fit until the skirt is practically done.
Really bad attempt at inserting a lapped zipper , which was ripped out and replaced with an invisible one( sleek and streamlined)
Since my fabric is heavier ( but it soften and become drapey with wear ) I opted for the topstich/mitre edges at 15mm hem allowances .The hem treatment instructions is best suited for sheers and semi sheers.

One that will go into my must keep pattern collection.

Burda WOF 7/2006 Style #121 Carmen Top

One of my easy tops in the WIP basket.But not as easy as I had hoped as I hit a major stumble.
Pattern specs:
Burda WOF 7/2006 Style # 121 described as jersey top with carmen neckline and short raglan sleeves, which will be finished in an hour
Fabric: Novelty seersucker effect rayon jersey knit.
The pattern was traced and fixed( FBA ,length added)
Would have been sewn in the prescribed time or less, decided to try to try the top on sans neckline finish.Yikes, gaposis/saggyitis galore

Backtracking the magazine picture of the finished garment had all the clues.Tastefully arranged pose , but look closely and you can see the top would have dropped off the model if she dared move.The long sleeved version in the magazine also has the same glitch.

On me when the back is pinned/darted out( in reality scrunched up) the top grazes (hugs) my shoulders just fine.The problem with a style like this is that if not custom drafted there will be no support from which the shoulder frames the neckline, without some reduction in total circumference by any one of several options.

Back view showing the saggy rubbish( with construction thread).
The neckline didnt stretch out as I rechecked the measurements against the pattern pieces.

Possible solutions :
1.Create darts in the shoulders.
2.Elasticize the neckline.
3.Ease with Vilene bias shaping tape.This might affect the elasticity of the neckline.
All I have worked out is the need to shorten and pull in the neckline.By what sort of dimension I havent got a clue.
I will consult Joseph-Armstrong Pattern Making reference book and try and catch a few rules on the drafting of carmen type tops .I suspect it has to do with dart suppression, overlaps and watnots( like drafting bustier type outfits)
I will try the second option out.I still have some scraps and will use my lingerie books and a variety of elastic finishes.
Foldover elastic could work but might clash with the fabric self pattern.
Watch this space.

WIP:Knitting pile of shame?

Words just dont cut it.Just a pile of unfinished knitting.
The blue Adrienne Vittadini lace cardi was started and finished in january 2006( as a get organised for transitional wear), just cant get round to casting the 500 or so stitches that triplicates to make front ruffles.
The wretched cardi has already been blocked and seamed together.
Phildar summer corset top.Seams to side and a dip in some dye vat to erase that soleil brightness.
And I am already swatching the Phildar Autumn selection.

Frenzied Summer Sewing Part1

I have been squirelling away at various projects.
I dont sew with a SWAP (SWAP sewing with a plan.Coined from original article in Australian stitches.The concept is to create a wardrobe of co-ordinating , extending range of garment pieces in colurs and styles that blend and work together as a capsule)in mind , but because of the way I buy or rather stash fabrics, they tend to be in the colours that I wear.
Any unusual colours would only be bought if there are co=ordinates to go with them , or if the zebra will highlight or complement stash.( Make any sense????)

Above DKNY pattern have cut the skirt in a stunning quality ecru italian linen , there is 1.7 metres left to make a jacket , maybe from Burda.The matching jacket pattern is nice but I am not in the mood for precision sewing.Part of the beauty is the yards of topstitching to do.
Actually I lie....................... despite having too many spools of thread I have tried to get a perfect match for possible topstitching with no joy.One of my few resolutions was to use only what I have indoors

I am trying out some Patrones designs , including the above skirt by Morgan.The original is done in silk satin , but I am not confident about the outcome to risk any of my silks.
I am using some cotton/linen/poly lycra blend.

The pattern pieces are a bit different to Burda WOF, but will comments until the end of projects.
A few easy Rayon/lycra and cotton/lycra prints are in various stages of being transformed into tops/tee shirts.

Patrones Spanish Sewing Magazines

A wonderful sewist sent me these three magazines.
Very desirable spanish language sewing magazines.In the same genre as Burda WOF, La Mia Boutique, Modellina, sought after and silly prices outside of Spain , Canaries , Greece or Mexico.
Official website info:
Patrones
I am not going to do a review but suffice to say that they showcase high fashion trendy well known high street as well as top designer patterns.
The charts are not as polished as say Burda , diff sizing , minimal instruction in espanol.
Looking through the issues the pictures show the original garments( I know from the stamped buttons in some cases) but the actual patterns are probably drafted to give the finished look.Clearly no couture looking pattern pieces and or construction.
Have already bookmark some delicious delights.
Near the top of my wish list is a Burberry linen trench coat.
Will try and get a few more of the Moda Internacional issues but only if the price is right.
Enjoy

Phildar Automne 2006

Phildar has started releasing the first of their gazillion new season books and yarns.
And guess what came across the channel at the weekend?
The new Phildar# 453 as well as acouple of knitting and crochet stitch books.

Five new yarns , the usual paper effect, variegated, bouclette mainly acrylic ones.
Phildar Fils

I am not a yarn snob and will use the yarns as indicated if I like the pattern enough.
Enjoy my shortlisted designs

Sizzling Saturday in Town

What a great saturday( 1st July) I had. Fabby time on the hottest , best weekend this year.
Sales had just started ..................at least by my schedule.
Hosted some great French knitting pals as well as another local fiber hog( a co-conspirator)

Swung into town at about midday, only to find Oxford Street closed to traffic.

Yikes I thought, then I remembered it was Gay Pride.

The streets were packed , the shops were not heaving as should have been.With the anticipated England football match set for a few hours later , all was looking great if you werent in a pub , bar or outside an electrical shop.
Sadly there weren't great pickings in the sales for me.
I had decided (hoped)there wouldnt be much to tempt me.
Me of the recent 70 pelotes (aka balls)of Phildar yarns eurostar expressed to moi only a few weeks ago. I missed the Liberty preview( or not by all accounts).
With specialist local knowledge on the yarns , I was able to tempt as well as dissuade many a frenzied yarn purchase.
Five yarnaholics in John Lewis 4th floor location was indeed a sight to see.

Fabrics/yarns/pattern books/sewing patterns there and at Liberty were purchased.

Alfresco lunch in the glorious sunny London, tips were shared , fiber chat , yarn fondled , even a foray in football chatter.
Well with savvy french ladies , enough to drool over thier soccer squad.
Au revoirs, A bientots several hours led to the departure to Eurostar Terminal and surburbs.

All in all a grand day, planning a return visit to France early autumn.

Me !!!!!!Sale purchase??? Well a small bag of Luxury soft cotton in walnut by Sirdar.Not to stash , but to knit up asap