Ducking and Diving in London n Paris

The last week has been a blast.First we had snow in London, and probably most of Europe, not a big deal if one lived in the real temperate climes.2 inches of snow overnight simply cripples this city of mine.
The paradox is that the shops have switched from winter togs to spring summer collections this very week.Imagine yellow, white, peach in shop windows in subzero weather.
Went to collect a RTW jacket ordered from town. Curvy means largish size which equates to garments get sold out sharpish.Got a chance to look at a few other collections, some great stuff but too distracted to pay attention.

Then the biggie of the week.
A suprise visit to Paris at the end of the week to catch the now finished Balenciaga Exhibition.
SUPERB.

Sewing , Knitting???
The blue coat is done less final press, and off to get ready for the next week.
Have a great week

Working on Burda WOF Navy Coat

I have been working on a Burda WOF coat.Aged as opposed to vintage from 1996 October issue
A winter break( like sub zero temps) looming means I needed to get my skates on.
Although it is a roomy coat , I still need length in the front from shoulder to waist.
FBA done and dart rotated to the armhole.
This a great fix when sewing bulky fabrics as the transferred dart is always smaller than original horizontal dart.

I am almost done , with only the bottom of lining to sew as well as buttonholes.So I hope to upload pictures during the week as soon able to do so.
I wont be having great in progress notes or pictures, but if you visit Tany at Couture et Tricot , she is currently working on a stunning Orwell/Burda WOF coat with excellent pictures and notes.To boot her blog is bilingual, Way cool.

Adrienne Vittadini Lace Ruffle Cardigan

Pattern: Adrienne Vittadini Spring 2005
Lace cardigan with ruffle edges with picot cast off effect on edges and sleeve hems
Original Yarn: Dianna 51% Cotton 49% Acrylic 98yds/50gm
Yarn Sub:Paton Washed Haze. 50% Cotton 50%Acrylic 101yds/50gm
( El cheapo but great sub for Rowan ASC,GGH Samoa, Phildar Aviso et al)
Needles:4.5mm straight and circular needles
Modifications:
Well.................... since this cardi only took a whole year to knit , my annotated copy of the pattern just has numbers scribbled alongside the schematics.
I made the front a whole size larger from the back.
From the side view , easy to see why.Usually need more length and width for the front .Didnt have the courage to try shortrows.
Lengthened by 2.5cm below the waist, and 2 cm before the armhole , as a result I needed to recalculate the V front slope shaping and the ruffles.
The main lace portion , wasnt too difficult despite the fact that there was no chart for the basic lace pattern or the shaping.I used the Katharina Buss "Big book of Knitting".
Only to finish the charting the lace pattern with it's shaping, to discover that design #6 has same lace design and a chart.
Ran out of yarn after finishing the major parts , phoned around London and the home counties trying to locate same dyelot for a few weeks .Lost the will to cast on for the ruffles on yarn find, so hid the bag in a very dark cupboard for the next eleven months.
New year and all that ,UFO is really an alien word in my dicto so got my skates on and finished the cardigan sharpish.

Skirt seen with cardi :
Burda WOF 1/2007 Style # 111
Fabric: Black diagonal cloth
Lining: Stretch acetate/poly lining.
Great style lines.Note the concave and convex shaping going on.
Burda makes no mention or caution, but it needs staystitching and clipping to make the sewing smooth and pucker free.
Decided on tone on tone topstiching.I will make another version in the summer with contrast threads

Burda WOF Archives now online

Yep , yet another quick post.Like the proverbial # 36 bus ( one waits half hour for the bus and then 3 to 4 show up)Or maybe one is just on temporary release from the Zoo.

Great news for Burda WOF groupies like moi, sewers who need to refer to back issues or bloggers who regularly review BWOF designs.
Archives of the magazines from 2004-2006 are on the German site.

Archiv von Burda Modemagazin

Need to upload pictures for a proper sewing and knitting blog entry( like when?)

Ubiquitous Burda Twist Top becomes a dress

The new Burda Plus Fashion S/S 07 E952 magazine is out.
Working through insomnia , stumbled on the infamous twist top from Burda WOF April 2005.
Currently offered in Burda sizes 44- 54
Based on this article on Sewing Divas , well worth snagging a copy when it hits the news stands.

Burda patterns will grade up and down two sizes easily and correctly.They have the fix printed in numerous back issues.
So Burda sizes 40 and 42 will be easy peasy to recreate.
Not only is there the tee top, the design now comes morphed into a dress.

WOW:New Issey Miyake Vogue Pattern

ForIssey Miyake fans, there is a new Vogue pattern issue
The first pattern in (what?) three to four years.And what a treat.
Just Stunning.
Specs:VP 2952
Jacket and Skirt.Lined with tucks, mock wrap skirt with uneven hemline

Back to the here and now.Pulled out my knitting UFO , with some determination just stitches to completion.
Okay fess up , I am done will post pics tomorrow.

Patrones Sewing Magazines

Maria left a comment asking about Patrones magazines and how to source.
Patrones:
Hymsa say "A fashion magazine first published in September 1982. Styles from Pret a porter , with each style in a natural shape( read as body hugging close fitting) Spanish size 40-44-48.
Great designer styles with name dropping labels regularly featured

How to locate
Direct Subscription from Spain
They offer yearly subs as well as sell single copies
Patrones Website
Dutch Online seller
Holland
German Ebay
Current Ebay Auctions
On PReview there are messages in the forum on the availability for the Americas
PR Forum
Eye Candy
Patrones Russian Site
Has excellent preview picture monthy

With some coaxing I am hoping to get a certain "someone" to do Patrones pattern preview here monthly.

FO:BWOF 12/06 Dress morphed into Twist top

Yes , another pesky knit top( One of the very garment that is so derided online)
Nothing special except that the knit top started life as a dress in Burda WOF December 2006

Fabric:
Purple Viscose Lycra Knit
Pattern :
Burda WOF 12/06 Style #110
Modifications:
Using a basic well fitting knit top pattern.I have knit slopers made for Burda Pattern 3197 and Vogue/Butterick B6084 ( which works for Big 3/4)
This time I used a basic pattern from Burda WOF 10/2006 # 114 for the modifications.
This pattern is very close cousin to the famous Burda paper pattern version

1.Overlay the unaltered basic knit on the front and back pattern on the dress pattern pieces.

With Burda , the draft is ( always) consistent and the waistline are always marked.
Note the size on the knit top pattern that corresponds to your measurements.This will accomodate for the difference in ease rquired by a woven vs knit fabric.

2.Trace on the style lines onto native unaltered knit patterns.

3.Using a well fitting pattern cancels trying to jazz up a new armhole /sleeve combo.

4.Alter the new pattern pieces for figure xteristics( not flaws) The dress pattern has a low , wide neckline and I needed to add about 2 cm and raise the back neckline.
FBA easy to do ( except I forgot to remove the waistline excess)
Great version of ever popular twist top.
This tweaked pattern I intend to make again in a print knit.
Would also be super in stretch silk charmeuse.

Fiberly Updates

The new year is well underway , and so far so good.
All the necessary seasonal greetings and wellwishes done off blog and life has settled quite nicely.

No resolutions to share ,nothing grand , clever or self serving .

Knitting
I havent felt like knitting at all , and that is just fine.
The Xmas sale in Liberty & John Lewis must be a first for me.
No yarn purchase, just two discounted books.The offering wasnt special , with chunky rowan yarns, Trinity and Merino Aran and Chunky from Jaeger.Debbie Bliss Cathay and Cotton Cashmere just didn't cut it for me.
Not to mention the bags full of yarn waiting patiently?
With three knitting UFOs to battle with , me thinks they have to be priority.

GGH Rebecca #33 is out and a copy winging its way from Germany.
Two new yarns to boot , silk and a cashmere feeling cotton blend.


Phildar News
SOLDES REDUCTION
January sale underway with selection of cotton yarns as well as older knitting catalogues on offer.

Six new spring summer yarns and for Phildar more natural fibre yarns.Cotton , Bambou, Lyocell.
Phil Bambou, Phil Thalassa and Detente I am quite keen to try out.
Way to go Phildar......................

Up to my eyes in Patrones and Burda WOF, scads of them with stickies for shortlisted designs and not much progress.
Jacket and three skirts done........................ and navy blue coat ready to sew.

Welcome to my 2007